Definition, Origin, Workshop Method, Chemistry, Historical Usage and Modern Application
Eben van Tonder | EarthwormExpress | 17 March 2026
Introduction
A single term in Austrian and German sausage literature has caused persistent confusion in the trade: Salzstoß. Some practitioners use it to describe the initial phase of salt addition to lean meat in the cutter. Others treat it loosely as any pre-salted connective tissue. The confusion matters because the two things are chemically and functionally different, and conflating them leads to process errors with real consequences for product quality.
Salzstoß is not a salting phase. It is a pre-processed collagen system consisting of connective tissue, salt, and water, prepared separately and later incorporated into the sausage batter.
This article presents the Austrian Codex definition verbatim, establishes the origin and meaning of the term, documents the workshop method of an Austrian master butcher with its recipe grid, explains the science of what the material does, quantifies historical usage levels, addresses the modern processing context, and closes with the limitations and adaptations required when working with highly crosslinked raw material.
Salzstoß is a defined raw material in sausage production, not a processing step. Its correct understanding is essential to avoid confusion with the Vorsalzen phase used for protein extraction in meat systems.
1. Definition
The Austrian Food Codex, IV. Auflage, Codexkapitel B 14, section B.2.3.3, is the primary legal reference for Salzstoß. The following is the verbatim German text as published in the current online edition of the Österreichisches Lebensmittelbuch.
| Österreichisches Lebensmittelbuch, IV. Auflage | Codexkapitel B 14 | Abschnitt B.2.3.3 “Unter Salzstoß versteht man die beim Entsehnen des Fleisches anfallenden fettarmen Bindegewebsteile (Sehnen, Muskelhäute) in gesalzenem Zustand.” Translation: Salzstoß refers to low-fat connective tissue parts arising during the deseaming of meat, namely tendons and muscle sheaths, in salted condition. Source: Österreichisches Lebensmittelbuch, IV. Auflage, current edition, Abschnitt B.2.3.3 | https://www.lebensmittelbuch.at |
In one operative sentence: Salzstoß is the low-fat connective tissue fraction obtained from the deseaming of skeletal muscle, specifically tendons and muscle sheaths, held under salted conditions for preservation and initial hydration.
1.1 Tissue composition
Salzstoß refers specifically to collagen-rich connective tissue components trimmed from skeletal muscle during the Entsehnen. These consist of:
| Tissue Components of Salzstoß | ||
| Tissue type | German term | Collagen character |
| Epimysium | Epimysium | Outer sheath of dense connective tissue surrounding an entire muscle. Rich in Type I collagen. Removed during whole-muscle seaming. |
| Perimysium | Perimysium | Connective tissue sheath surrounding individual fascicles. High collagen content and significant contributor to textural bite. |
| Tendons | Sehnen | Dense, parallel Type I collagen fibre bundles connecting muscle to bone. Highest collagen density and crosslink content of all Salzstoß components. |
| Fascial tissue | Faszie | Broader sheets of connective tissue separating or encasing muscle groups. Variable thickness and collagen density. |
Fat content: typically below 5%, often 1 to 3% depending on trimming practice. [1][10]
1.2 Salt level specification
Salt concentration is calculated on the mass of the connective tissue material itself, not on the final sausage mass. Standard practice: 2.0 to 2.5% NaCl (based on raw Salzstoß mass). Upper practical limit: 3.0%. The salt promotes hydration and limited swelling of the collagen matrix. It does not solubilise fibrillar collagen or contribute to myofibrillar protein extraction. In the workshop practice of an Austrian master butcher who is the source of the method documented here, Nitritpökelsalz (curing salt) is used in place of plain NaCl, at the same percentage range. Where nitrite salt is used, the same 2.0 to 2.5% specification applies, calculated on raw Salzstoß mass.
1.3 Salzstoß is not the salting phase
Salzstoß is not a salting phase. It must not be confused with the classical salting phase, referred to as Vorsalzen or Ansalzen, in which salt is added to lean meat in the cutter to extract myofibrillar proteins. That step forms the primary binding system of the sausage.
Salzstoß is independent of the primary protein extraction phase in modern processing. It is added as a functional collagen component after or alongside lean meat processing, not as part of the initial salt extraction step. Historically, the Vorsalzen phase involved salt only. The addition of phosphates became widespread in industrial processing after the mid-twentieth century.
| Salzstoß vs. Vorsalzen: the distinction | ||
| Salzstoß | Vorsalzen (lean meat salting) | |
| What it is | A pre-processed collagen material: Epimysium, Perimysium, Sehnen, Faszie held under salted conditions | A processing step: addition of salt and ice to lean meat at the start of cutter work |
| Protein involved | Type I fibrillar collagen. Contains negligible myofibrillar proteins and does not function as a source of extractable myosin or actin. | Myosin and actin (myofibrillar proteins). No structural collagen. |
| Purpose of salt | Preservation and limited collagen swelling | Ionic extraction to solubilise myosin from filaments |
| Historical salt usage | Salt only. Modern adaptation: salt plus phosphate (method of an Austrian master butcher). | Salt only historically. Phosphate addition became widespread after mid-twentieth century. |
| Position in production | Prepared in advance (Phase 0). Incorporated at Phase 2, after Grundbrät is leimig und glatt. | Phase 1: the first action in the cutter, before any other ingredient. |
| End result | A hydrated collagen ingredient ready for incorporation | The Grundbrät: a smooth, tacky myofibrillar protein matrix |
Salzstoß does not contribute to myofibrillar protein extraction. Its protein fraction is dominated by fibrillar collagen and relies on the surrounding myofibrillar matrix established by Vorsalzen. These concepts are not interchangeable. [1][4][10]
2. Origin and Meaning of the Term
The term Salzstoß originates from German butcher terminology, where Stoß refers to a prepared batch or charged mass. The meaning in practice is that Salzstoß describes a batch of salted connective tissue material prepared in advance, not the act of salting meat.
The compound joins Salz (salt) and Stoß (prepared batch). In the butchery trade, deseaming operations over a working shift accumulate tendon, epimysium and fascial trimmings continuously. These are gathered, salted as one batch, and held for use. That batch is the Salzstoß. This interpretation is consistent with trade usage and word formation but is not confirmed by a primary historical dictionary source.
| Note on etymology This interpretation is consistent with trade usage and word formation but is not confirmed by a primary historical dictionary source. |
The term is strongly Austrian in its codified form. The German Leitsätze für Fleisch und Fleischerzeugnisse do not give Salzstoß a central defining role, while the Austrian Codex codifies it precisely in Codexkapitel B 14.
3. Method according to an Austrian Master Butcher
The Codex defines the material category. It does not prescribe how the material should be prepared before use. That is determined by workshop practice. The method below was documented by an Austrian master butcher from his apprenticeship. It is attributed to him in full and presented here in two distinct parts: his method as stated, and the scientific interpretation separately.
Many sources describe a two-stage sizing approach: an initial conditioning grind of 5 to 20 mm, with a final reduction to 2 to 3 mm before incorporation into the batter. The Austrian master butcher’s own practice differs: he wolfs directly to 3 mm in a single pass from the outset. Both approaches are documented here. The two-stage reference is retained in Sections 3, 4 and 9 where it reflects the broader literature; his single-stage method is noted as a documented workshop variant.
3.1 Method according to an Austrian Master Butcher
The Austrian master butcher describes the Salzstoß as a mixture of minced connective tissue, salt, and water, prepared without bowl cutting. The material is mixed in a paddle mixer until evenly hydrated and stored for later use in sausage production.
1. Mince connective tissue. Tendons, epimysium, perimysium, fascial tissue. Initial particle size 5 to 20 mm.
2. Add salt. 2.0 to 2.5% NaCl (based on raw Salzstoß mass).
3. Add water. 20 to 40% of raw Salzstoß mass. Dissolve salt in water before adding to tissue.
4. Paddle mix only. No bowl cutter at any stage of this preparation.
5. Mix until uniform hydration: approximately 10 to 20 minutes, until all particles are evenly coated and no dry material remains.
6. Rest 6 to 24 hours at 0 to 4°C. Container covered and labelled.
| Equipment rule — no bowl cutter The Salzstoß is prepared in a paddle mixer only. No bowl cutting is used at this stage. A bowl cutter used here would reduce the tissue to paste, destroying the fibrous structure and eliminating the bite character the material is designed to deliver in the finished product. |
3.2 Scientific interpretation
The functionality of Salzstoß is based on partial hydration and swelling of collagen fibres in the presence of salt. This increases water binding and allows hydrated collagen particles to be physically embedded within the extracted myofibrillar protein matrix during subsequent processing.
The addition of water-soluble phosphate, as used in the modern version of this method, increases the net negative charge on protein structures and improves water binding and reduces fibre aggregation. The fibre bundles swell. The result is a conditioned native collagen: structurally intact but hydrated and softened at the surface. Cold swelling preserves the fibrous identity and bite character of the material, in contrast to heat pre-treatment, which begins to denature the collagen triple helix.
4. Recipe Grid
The following grid presents the Salzstoß preparation as a complete formulation and process. All percentages are calculated on raw Salzstoß mass.
| Salzstoß Preparation: Formulation | |||
| Raw material | % (of raw Salzstoß mass) | Function | Notes |
| Connective tissue (coarse minced) | 100 | Collagen source. Physical structure and bite in finished sausage. | Tendons, epimysium, perimysium, fascial tissue. Initial particle size 5 to 20 mm. |
| Salt (NaCl) | 2.0 to 2.5 (max 3.0) | Preservation. Limited collagen surface conditioning. | 2.0 to 2.5% NaCl (based on raw Salzstoß mass). Dissolved in water before adding to tissue. |
| Water | 20 to 40 | Hydration medium. Enables swelling and salt distribution. | Chilled. Dissolve salt and phosphate in water first. |
| Water-soluble phosphate (optional) | 0.3 to 0.5 | Has a limited direct effect on collagen itself but improves the overall water binding environment of the system. | Modern adaptation. Not part of the historical Codex definition. Addition became widespread after mid-twentieth century. |
All percentages on raw Salzstoß mass. [1][11][25]
| Salzstoß Preparation: Process | |
| Parameter | Specification |
| Equipment | Paddle mixer only. No bowl cutter. |
| Mixing time | 10 to 20 minutes. All particles uniformly coated. No dry material remaining. |
| Rest time | 6 to 24 hours (several hours to overnight). |
| Temperature during rest | 0 to 4°C. Container covered and labelled. |
| End state | Not a gel and not an emulsion. The fibrous structure remains intact. Particles hydrated and swollen but structurally preserved. |
| Incorporation | Phase 2 only. Final particle size reduced to 2 to 3 mm before or during incorporation into Grundbrät. |
Method attributed to an Austrian master butcher. Modern phosphate addition consistent with post-1950 practice. [25]
5. Scientific Explanation
Two protein systems are at work in any Salzstoß-containing sausage. Understanding both, and the relationship between them, explains why the production sequence is fixed and what Salzstoß contributes in the finished product.
5.1 The myofibrillar system
Lean meat provides the primary binding matrix. Its key proteins are myosin (approximately 65% of the myofibrillar fraction) and actin (approximately 20%). These proteins are not water-soluble. They require elevated ionic strength to dissolve from their filament structure. Adding 2.0 to 3.0% NaCl to lean meat during cutter work provides ionic conditions sufficient for effective myofibrillar protein solubilisation.
Protein extraction endpoint is reached when the batter becomes leimig und glatt: sticky, smooth, and forms strands between the fingers, with visible strand formation between fingers or on the cutter bowl. This is the technical control point that confirms the myofibrillar phase is complete. Salzstoß must never enter the cutter before this state is confirmed. This state typically corresponds to a measurable increase in batter viscosity and protein solubilisation, observable as cohesive strand formation and adhesion to surfaces.
Once extracted, solubilised myosin and actin coat fat particles and, on heating above 45 to 65°C, form the continuous Grundbrät gel matrix that holds water, entraps fat, and gives the product its structural cohesion.
Failure to reach this state results in poor fat stabilisation, reduced water binding, and structural weakness in the final product.
| Critical warning Salzstoß does not compensate for poor meat quality. If myofibrillar extraction fails because the Grundbrät has not reached leimig und glatt, Salzstoß will remain as separate particles and weaken the structure. The collagen cannot substitute for the myofibrillar binding system. A failed Grundbrät and a correctly prepared Salzstoß still produce a defective product. |
5.2 The collagen system
Salzstoß consists predominantly of Type I fibrillar collagen. Fibrillar collagen does not solubilise under standard cold processing conditions in water or salt solution. The salt applied during Salzstoß preparation preserves the tissue but does not solubilise fibrillar collagen or contribute to myofibrillar protein extraction.
The structural determinant of Salzstoß functionality is the collagen crosslink type. In young animals, divalent reducible crosslinks dominate and are thermally labile. As the animal ages, lysyl oxidase-mediated reactions convert these to mature trivalent crosslinks, specifically hydroxylysylpyridinoline (HP) and lysylpyridinoline (LP). HP constitutes approximately 90 to 95% of total pyridinoline crosslinks in intramuscular connective tissue.
Functionality is therefore governed by physical state and crosslink density rather than solubility.
Crosslink density increases with animal age and activity level, particularly in extensively raised cattle.
5.3 Functional role of Salzstoß
Salzstoß contributes to sausage systems in three specific ways, each distinct from the role of myofibrillar proteins.
| Functional Contributions of Salzstoß | ||
| Contribution | Mechanism | Limitation |
| Physical structure via collagen fibre networks | Intact and partially gelatinised collagen particles distributed through the myosin gel provide mechanical resistance under bite. | Particulate contribution only. Collagen does not form the primary continuous gel matrix under typical Brühwurst processing conditions. |
| Limited water holding via swelling and entrapment | Conditioned collagen particles hold moisture through physical entrapment. Gelatinised surface layer also contributes. | Not protein-based water binding. Disrupted if particles are over-cut before incorporation. |
| Amino acid and flavour contribution | Collagen-derived peptides and amino acids (glycine, proline, hydroxyproline) released during partial gelatinisation contribute to savoury character and amino acid supply. | Collagen has a different amino acid profile and functional role compared to myofibrillar proteins. |
Binding is predominantly provided by myofibrillar proteins from lean meat. Salzstoß does not replace this. [17][18]
5.4 Thermal events: native versus gelatinised collagen
On cooking, collagen follows a thermal sequence distinct from myofibrillar proteins (Tornberg, 2005): denaturation begins at 53 to 63°C; gelatinisation of heat-labile fractions follows above 70°C; more highly crosslinked collagen fractions require higher temperatures and longer times for conversion.
The myosin gel sets at 45 to 65°C, before collagen begins to transform. At Brühwurst cooking temperatures of 72 to 78°C core, the outer surface of each Salzstoß particle partially gelatinises, binding it into the surrounding myosin matrix and releasing flavour compounds. The interior retains native collagen structure, delivering bite resistance.
6. Historical Usage Levels
The Salzstoß allowed butchers to utilise collagen-rich materials in a controlled way, improving binding, yield, and texture without relying on fine comminution or modern additives. Historical inclusion levels reflect this functional purpose across different product types.
6.1 Codex inclusion levels
| Salzstoß Inclusion: Codex Formulations | ||
| Product | Category | Codex value (parts per 100) |
| Burenwurst | Brätwurst Sorte 3b | 20 |
| Dürre im Kranz / Braunschweiger im Kranz / Oderberger / Klobassen | Brätwurst Sorte 3b | 20 |
| Jausenwurst / Braunschweiger in Stangen / Dürre in Stangen | Fleischwurst Sorte 3b | 15 |
| Waldviertler / Rauchwurst / Rauchdürre | Fleischwurst Sorte 3a | 10 |
| Schübling (Vorarlberg only) | Brätwurst Sorte 2 | 4 (Salzstoß or Schwarten) |
| Wiener / Frankfurter / Extrawurst / Pariser | Sorte 1 and 2 | Not specified. Not used. |
Sources: Codex B 14 [1][2]; BMLUK product pages [7][8][26].
6.2 Historical and workshop inclusion ranges
| Typical Historical Inclusion Ranges | ||
| Product type | Typical level | Source basis |
| Burenwurst | Approximately 20 parts per 100 | Confirmed: current Codex and older workshop formula consistent at 20 parts. [7][20] |
| Waldviertler | Typically 10 to 20% | Current Codex: 10 parts. Older practice: variable up to 20%. [8] |
| Braunschweiger | Variable, 15 to 20 parts depending on variant. Workshop practice of an Austrian master butcher: approximately 25 parts. | Codex-specified range. Workshop: variable. Personal communication from an Austrian master butcher: approximately 25 parts in Austrian Braunschweiger. [25][26] |
| Wiener and Frankfurter | Approximately 8 to 12% historically; none in current Codex | Historical workshop range before modern Sorte 1 Codex standardisation. Current Codex: not specified. [1] |
| Krainerwurst | Approximately 6 to 10% | Workshop range from historical practice. Not separately codified. |
| Coarse sausages | Lower, below 5% | Variable by product and texture requirement. |
| Modern industrial | Often replaced or substantially reduced | Modern rind emulsions can be understood as a thermally pre-treated analogue of Salzstoß, where collagen is converted into a dispersed gel phase rather than retained as intact fibres. Pre-cooked rind emulsions, collagen gels and connective tissue powders are common substitutes. [27] |
Workshop ranges are derived from documented practice. Where no quantified primary source has been located, this is stated.
7. Relationship to Modern Processing
The Salzstoß is independent of the primary protein extraction phase in modern processing. It is added as a functional collagen component after or alongside lean meat processing, not as part of the initial salt extraction step.
7.1 Operational production sequence
The production sequence is fixed by the chemistry. Salzstoß must never enter the cutter before full protein extraction is confirmed.
| Operational Production Sequence | ||||
| Phase | Name | Inputs and actions | Temperature | Proceed when |
| 0 | Raw material preparation (previous day or pre-shift) | Salzstoß conditioned by the Austrian master butcher’s method (Sections 3 and 4). Lean meat chilled to below 2°C. | Below 4°C throughout | Conditioned Salzstoß ready. Lean meat at correct temperature. |
| 1 | Phase 1: Lean meat plus salt. Develop Grundbrät. | Lean meat (Rind II or Schwein II) plus 1.5 to 2.5% NaCl plus ice in cutter. Phosphate at 0.3 to 0.5% if used. | Start below 4°C. End below 10°C. | Batter is leimig und glatt: sticky, smooth, forms strands between fingers, visible strand formation on cutter bowl. Full protein extraction confirmed. |
| 2 | Phase 2: Add Salzstoß. | Conditioned Salzstoß reduced to 2 to 3 mm. Added to Grundbrät in cutter. Brief run to distribute uniformly. Particles must remain distinct. | Below 12°C | Salzstoß uniformly distributed through matrix. |
| 3 | Phase 3: Final mixing and stuffing. | Speck I at 8 mm grain; seasoning; starch if permitted. Mix to even distribution. Stuff into casings. Smoke and scald. | Below 14°C before stuffing. Core 72 to 78°C after scalding. | Myosin gel set. Collagen particles partially gelatinised at surface. |
Sources: BMLUK Burenwurst page [7]; BMLUK Waldviertler page [8]; Selbermacher24 [24].
In modern large-scale industrial production, classical Salzstoß has been largely replaced by pre-cooked rind emulsions, commercial collagen gels and connective tissue powders. However, where a Codex designation is in use, Salzstoß at the specified inclusion is mandatory. No substitution is permitted except the explicitly noted Schübling case. An Austrian master butcher notes from his own experience that while he used Salzstoß in other sausage types when working abroad, he would not do so within Austria beyond Codex-specified products, as elevated collagen levels in non-specified sausages would be flagged at food inspection.
8. Limitations and Adaptations
Salzstoß is not equally effective across all raw material sources. The primary limiting factor is the crosslink density of the connective tissue, which determines swelling capacity, heat solubility, and integration into the sausage matrix.
Crosslink density increases with animal age and activity level, particularly in extensively raised cattle. This has direct consequences for the functionality of Salzstoß derived from older animals.
8.1 Effects of high crosslink density in the product
Highly crosslinked collagen, such as that found in older or nomadic animals with elevated pyridinoline crosslinks, shows reduced swelling and functionality, limiting the effectiveness of Salzstoß unless pre-treated.
| Defects from High Crosslink Density Salzstoß | ||
| Defect | Cause | Mitigation |
| Poor swelling during conditioning | Dense HP and LP crosslinks physically restrict fibre expansion. Salt and phosphate cannot sufficiently penetrate the bundle. | Pre-heat treatment at 75°C before conditioning (see Section 8.2). |
| Hard particles in finished sausage | Incomplete softening and gelatinisation at standard Brühwurst temperatures. More highly crosslinked collagen fractions require higher temperatures and longer times for conversion. | Pre-heat treatment. Extended scalding time at slightly higher temperature. |
| Visible gristle-like texture | Particles appear as distinct, hard white inclusions rather than integrated soft collagen zones. | Use younger animals where possible. Pre-heat treatment for older material. |
| Reduced integration into matrix | Poorly swollen particles do not bind well to the surrounding myosin matrix. | Pre-heat treatment. Ensure adequate Grundbrät development before Salzstoß incorporation. |
| Possible off-odour from aged connective tissue | Oxidative changes in aged tendon and fascial tissue. Elevated lipid content in poorly trimmed material. | Use fresh material. Trim closely. Process within 24 hours of slaughter where possible. |
Source: derived from principles in [15][16][17][18].
8.2 The Lagos adaptation: pre-heating for Zebu-type cattle
Pre-heating may be required to improve functionality when working with highly crosslinked connective tissue such as from older or Zebu-type cattle. In operations using such animals, pre-heating of connective tissue at approximately 75°C prior to Salzstoß preparation is recommended to improve functionality.
Hold time: 10 to 30 minutes depending on particle size. The goal is partial surface denaturation, not full gelatinisation.
The pre-heating step at 75°C partially denatures surface collagen structures, improving subsequent hydration and swelling behaviour. The effective barrier to water penetration is reduced without pre-converting it into a fully gelatinised system. The material then proceeds to the standard conditioning protocol in Section 3. The formulation and process in Section 4 apply unchanged.
| Modified Protocol for Zebu-type and Aged Cattle | ||
| Step | Action | Specification |
| 0a | Pre-heat connective tissue | Minced connective tissue (5 to 20 mm particle size) in water bath or steam at 75°C. |
| 0b | Hold time | 10 to 30 minutes depending on particle size. Goal: partial surface denaturation and not full gelatinisation of the collagen matrix. |
| 0c | Cool before conditioning | Allow to cool to below 10°C before proceeding to the conditioning method in Section 3. |
| 0d | Proceed with conditioning method | Continue with Section 3: add 2.0 to 2.5% NaCl (based on raw Salzstoß mass), 20 to 40% water, mix in paddle mixer, rest 6 to 24 hours at 0 to 4°C. |
All other parameters from Section 4 apply unchanged. This adaptation may be required when working with Zebu-type cattle or when test batches show hard particles in the finished product.
9. The Burenwurst: Recipe and Structural Identity
The Burenwurst is the product in which Salzstoß has its most culturally and technically instructive role, associated with the Wiener Würstelstand culture, recognised as UNESCO intangible cultural heritage in 2024. One Viennese food source states the relationship directly: ‘Das geschmackliche Geheimnis der Burenwurst ist der Salzstoß.’
| Structural identity of Burenwurst Burenwurst is not a coarse emulsion. It is a dual system: a myofibrillar matrix formed by the Grundbrät at Phase 1, combined with a collagen particle system delivered by Salzstoß at Phase 2. The myofibrillar matrix provides continuous binding and water retention. The collagen particles provide mechanical bite resistance, moisture distribution at the particle surface, and flavour release from partial gelatinisation during scalding. Neither system can substitute for the other. |
At 20 parts Salzstoß per 100, each particle, partially gelatinised at the outer surface and structurally intact in the interior, delivers the characteristic bite-then-yield texture that distinguishes Burenwurst from any fine emulsion product.
| Burenwurst: Codex Formula (Sorte 3b) and Older Viennese Workshop Variant | |||
| Component | Codex Sorte 3b (parts per 100) | Older Viennese formula (parts per 100) | Notes |
| Rindfleisch II and/or Schweinefleisch II | 37 | 50 (as Brät base) | Second-quality lean beef or pork. |
| Speck I | 25 | 25 | First-quality fat, no rind. |
| Salzstoß | 20 | 20 | Initial particle size 5 to 20 mm; wolfed to 2 to 3 mm before incorporation. 20 parts consistent across both formulas. |
| Water | 18 | Included in Brät base | Added as ice during Grundbrät formation. |
| Potato starch | max 3 per 100 finished | 3 per 100 finished | Excluded under AMA quality seal. |
| Seasoning | to taste | to taste | Garlic, black pepper, paprika, coriander. Refined: kümmel, piment, nutmeg, ginger, lemon zest. |
Sources: BMLUK Burenwurst page [7]; Contadino Burenwurst [20]. 20 parts Salzstoß consistent across both representations.
| Burenwurst: Complete Production Sequence | ||
| Step | Action | Specification |
| 0 | Prepare Salzstoß (previous day) | Mince tendons, epimysium, perimysium and fascial tissue to 5 to 20 mm. Combine with 20 to 40% water. Dissolve 2.0 to 2.5% NaCl (based on raw Salzstoß mass) and phosphate (0.3 to 0.5% if used) in water first. Add solution to tissue. Paddle mix 10 to 20 minutes until uniformly coated. Rest covered at 0 to 4°C for 6 to 24 hours. |
| 1 | Grundbrät formation (Phase 1, Vorsalzen) | Lean meat into cutter with 1.5 to 2.5% NaCl and ice. Cut until leimig und glatt: sticky, smooth, forms strands between fingers, visible strand formation on cutter bowl. Temperature below 10°C throughout. |
| 2 | Add Salzstoß (Phase 2) | Wolf conditioned Salzstoß to 2 to 3 mm. Add to Grundbrät. Distribute uniformly. Particles must remain distinct. Do not emulsify. |
| 3 | Add Speck and seasoning (Phase 3) | Wolf Speck I to approximately 8 mm. Add with potato starch (up to 3% of finished mass) and seasoning. Final batter temperature below 14°C. |
| 4 | Stuffing | Fill into Schweinssaitlinge at 28 to 32 mm calibre. |
| 5 | Smoking and scalding | Cold smoke briefly. Scald at approximately 75°C until core temperature reaches 72 to 74°C. |
| 6 | Serving | Hot from the kettle. Sweet mustard, Brotscherzel, sharp Ölpfefferoni. |
Sources: BMLUK Burenwurst page [7]; Codex B 14 Sorte 3b [1][2]; Contadino Burenwurst [20].
Conclusion
Salzstoß is a pre-processed collagen system consisting of connective tissue, salt, and water, prepared separately and later incorporated into the sausage batter. It is not a salting phase. It is not a myofibrillar binder. Its correct understanding is essential to avoid confusion with the Vorsalzen phase used for protein extraction in meat systems.
| Working definition Salzstoß is the low-fat connective tissue fraction, specifically tendons, epimysium, perimysium and fascial tissue, arising from the deseaming of skeletal muscle, held under salted conditions at 2.0 to 2.5% NaCl (based on raw Salzstoß mass), incorporated into Sorte 3 Austrian Brühwürste at 4 to 20 parts per 100 parts raw mass, after the myofibrillar protein matrix has been developed to a leimig und glatt state in the Magerbrätverfahren. |
The sequence is fixed: Grundbrät first, Salzstoß second. Protein extraction endpoint is confirmed when the batter is leimig und glatt: sticky, smooth, forming strands between the fingers with visible strand formation on the cutter bowl. Salzstoß does not compensate for a failed Grundbrät. If extraction fails, the collagen particles remain as separate structures and weaken the product.
The conditioning method documented here, applied using a paddle mixer at 20 to 40% water and 2.0 to 2.5% NaCl (based on raw Salzstoß mass), rested 6 to 24 hours at 0 to 4°C, maximises the functional contribution of this material at Phase 2. Where highly crosslinked connective tissue from older or Zebu-type cattle is the raw material source, pre-heating at 75°C for 10 to 30 minutes, with the goal of partial surface denaturation and not full gelatinisation, may be required to restore functionality.
A Burenwurst built on properly conditioned Salzstoß at 20 parts per 100 is a dual system: myofibrillar matrix plus collagen particle system. It is not a coarse emulsion. It is a different product built on different principles, with a flavour identity the Codex formula has preserved since the era of the Boer War.
References
1. Österreichisches Lebensmittelbuch (ÖLMB), IV. Auflage. Codexkapitel B 14, Abschnitt B.2.3.3 Salzstoß. BMSGPK, current edition. https://www.lebensmittelbuch.at
2. Österreichisches Lebensmittelbuch, IV. Auflage. Codexkapitel B 14, B.4.2 Brühwürste and B.4.2.2 Fleischwürste. https://www.lebensmittelbuch.at
3. Wikimeat. Herstellungsrichtlinien für Würste. https://www.wikimeat.at
4. BMLUK. Extrawurst page. Historical Brät definitions; warm versus cold processing; phosphate entry. https://www.bmluk.gv.at/themen/lebensmittel/trad-lebensmittel/Fleisch/Fleischprodukte/extrawurst.html
5. Deutsche Lebensmittelbuch Kommission. Leitsätze für Fleisch und Fleischerzeugnisse. Current edition.
6. BMLUK. Extrawurst bibliography section. Historical references: 1912 Österreichisches Nahrungsmittelbuch; 1925 Das Fleischer und Selcherhandwerk; 1931 Fachkunde im Fleischhauer und Selchergewerbe; Schwarz, F. (1948) Wurstrezepte.
7. BMLUK. Burenwurst page. Boer War history (1899 to 1902); 20 parts Salzstoß; explicit process statement. https://www.bmluk.gv.at/themen/lebensmittel/trad-lebensmittel/Fleisch/Fleischprodukte/burenwurst.html
8. BMLUK. Waldviertler page. Workshop sequences; Salzstoß pre-wolfed to 2 to 3 mm. https://www.bmluk.gv.at/themen/lebensmittel/trad-lebensmittel/Fleisch/Fleischprodukte/waldviertler.html
9. Grillsportverein.de (Andiman, 2013). Trade practitioner account of Salzstoß from bone-cleaning operations. https://www.grillsportverein.de
10. Lonergan, S.M., Topel, D.G. and Marple, D.N. (2019). The Science of Animal Growth and Meat Technology, 2nd ed. Academic Press. Myofibrillar proteins as primary binding agents; NaCl ionic strength effects on protein solubilisation.
11. Feiner, G. (2006). Meat Products Handbook: Practical Science and Technology. Woodhead Publishing, Cambridge. ISBN 978-1-84569-050-2. Salt role in myofibrillar extraction; product salt ranges; phosphate function.
12. PMC8950627 (2022). Foods, 11(6), 855. doi:10.3390/foods11060855. NaCl concentration and ionic strength range for effective myofibrillar protein solubilisation.
13. Hamm, R. and Neraal, R. (1977). Über den enzymatischen Abbau von Tripolyphosphat und Diphosphat in zerkleinertem Fleisch. Z. Lebensm. Unters. Forsch., 163, 126 to 127.
14. Chang, H.J. et al. (2010). Influence of NaCl marination on connective tissue collagen and textural properties of beef semitendinosus. Journal of Texture Studies, 41(3), 279 to 301. doi:10.1111/j.1745-4603.2010.00226.x. NaCl effects on CT mechanical properties; partial hydration and swelling.
15. Purslow, P.P. (2018). Contribution of collagen and connective tissue to cooked meat toughness. Meat Science, 144, 260 to 268. doi:10.1016/j.meatsci.2018.02.023. HP and LP crosslinks; crosslink density and heat solubility.
16. Roy, B.C. et al. (2021). Relationship between meat quality and intramuscular collagen characteristics. Meat Science, 173, 108375. doi:10.1016/j.meatsci.2020.108375. HP constitutes 90 to 95% of total pyridinoline crosslinks; increases with animal age and activity.
17. Tornberg, E. (2005). Effects of heat on meat proteins. Meat Science, 70(3), 493 to 508. doi:10.1016/j.meatsci.2004.11.021. Myofibrillar gelation 45 to 65°C; collagen denaturation 53 to 63°C; gelatinisation above 70°C; crosslink-dependent resistance.
18. Whiting, C. (1989). Contributions of Collagen to the Properties of Comminuted and Restructured Meat Products. 42nd Reciprocal Meat Conference. Quality limits: Wiley et al. (1979) 15%; Kramlich et al. (1973) 25%; Muller and Wagner (1985) 5% for fine emulsions. https://meatscience.org
19. Nakae, H. et al. (2008). Mechanical and biochemical properties of natural sausage casings treated with trisodium phosphate. Fleischwirtschaft International, 23, 44 to 46. Phosphate effect on collagen structure; net charge and water binding.
20. Contadino.com. Burenwurst page. ‘Das geschmackliche Geheimnis der Burenwurst ist der Salzstoß.’ Older Viennese formula: 55 parts Brät, 25 parts Speck, 20 parts Salzstoß. https://www.contadino.com/Regionale-Produkte/Burenwurst
21. Wu, G. et al. (2017). Roles of dietary glycine, proline, and hydroxyproline in collagen synthesis. Amino Acids. doi:10.1007/s00726-017-2490-6. Glycine, proline and hydroxyproline amino acid composition of collagen.
22. PMC9086765 (2022). Impact of collagen protein ingestion on musculoskeletal connective tissue remodeling. Collagen amino acid profile and dietary contribution.
23. Alcock, R.D. et al. (2019). Plasma Amino Acid Concentrations After the Ingestion of Dairy and Collagen Proteins. Frontiers in Nutrition, 6:163. doi:10.3389/fnut.2019.00163. Plasma glycine and hydroxyproline elevation after collagen ingestion.
24. Selbermacher24. Waldviertler recipe. Salzstoß added at end; Brät must be leimig und glatt first.
25. Austrian master butcher. Workshop conditioning method described from apprenticeship. Personal communication as reported.
26. BMLUK. Dürre/Braunschweiger page. Formulation and historical trace. https://www.bmluk.gv.at/themen/lebensmittel/trad-lebensmittel/Fleisch/Fleischprodukte/duerre_braunschweig.html
27. News.at (February 2026). Würstelstand: Streetfood auf Wienerisch. Comment on current Salzstoß use. https://www.news.at/kulinarik/wuerstelstand-wien-streetfood-2026
EarthwormExpress | Eben van Tonder and Kristi van Tonder | 17 March 2026