18 Feb 24
Eben van Tonder

The Essence of Suya

Suya, a name that resonates with the vibrancy and rich culinary heritage of West Africa, is more than just a delicacy; it’s a cultural phenomenon. This street food, deeply rooted in tradition, offers a tantalizing blend of flavours, textures, and aromas. Originating from the Hausa people in northern Nigeria and spreading across West Africa, suya is a testament to the ingenuity of using locally sourced ingredients to create dishes that delight and nourish.

A Glimpse into History

The tradition of suya begins with the simplicity of meat preservation techniques. I speculate that the earliest form of suya involved coating meat in ash. This method served dual purposes: drying the meat for preservation while keeping flies at bay. As culinary practices evolved, the ash could have been replaced with groundnut meal—a byproduct of oil extraction from peanuts and palm nuts. This innovation not only enhanced the drying process but also added a layer of flavour and protection against pests. I found tribes in South Africa and Namibia who still coat their meat in ash when they grill it.

Frobenius (1913) records a visit to the Bida market close to Kano. He described some of the meat delicacies he found at the market, one called Killishi. “Slices of meat are well rubbed for some days in succession with oil and spices and laid in the sun all the time.” Killishi, Nigeria’s version of South Africa’s biltong or American jerky, is rubbed with groundnut cake which is what is left after the oil has been extracted from the groundnuts. Rubbing it onto the meat aids in the drying process. Frobenius links Kilishi to another Nigerian favourite which is the subject of our current study, namely suja. He wrote, “This kind of sun-dried meat is in great favour and its Soja (suja) variety most of all.” The dishes are different but related. “The very best cuts are taken for Soja, which is first roasted and then rubbed with aromatic herbs, etc.” The content of the “aromatic herb,” as he calls it is described below.

The Suya of Today

Modern suya is a celebration of flavours with tender slices of meat marinated in a rich blend of spices and groundnut meal, then grilled to perfection over an open flame. The result is a smoky, spicy, and utterly irresistible delicacy that’s often enjoyed with slices of fresh onion, adding a crisp, refreshing contrast to the meat’s robust flavour.

Crafting the Perfect Suya Spice Blend

Creating the quintessential suya spice mix, known as ‘Yaji’, is an art. Each ingredient is carefully selected to achieve a balance of heat, sweetness, and umami that complements the meat.

-> Ingredients:

– 1 cup groundnut meal (peanut powder)

– 1 tablespoon paprika (for colour and mild sweetness)

– 1 tablespoon ground ginger (for warmth and spice)

– 2 teaspoons garlic powder (for pungency)

– 2 teaspoons onion powder (for sweetness and depth)

– 1 teaspoon cayenne pepper (adjust to taste for heat)

– 1 teaspoon ground African nutmeg (for a unique, earthy flavour)

– Salt to taste

-> Preparation:

1. Combine the Ingredients: In a bowl, mix all the dry ingredients until well combined. This blend can be stored in an airtight container for future use.

2. Marinate the Meat: Slice your choice of meat (beef, chicken, or lamb are popular options) into thin strips. Rub the suya spice blend into the meat, ensuring each piece is generously coated. For the best results, let the meat marinate for at least a few hours, or overnight in the refrigerator.

3. Grill to Perfection: Skewer the marinated meat and grill over an open flame, turning frequently until cooked through and slightly charred on the edges. Traditional suya is grilled over charcoal, which imparts a distinct smoky flavour.

4. Serve with Fresh Onion: Slice fresh onions into rings and serve alongside the suya for a refreshing bite that complements the spicy, smoky flavours of the meat.

Conclusion

Suya is more than just a skewered meat dish; it’s a journey through West Africa’s culinary landscape. By understanding its origins and mastering the art of its preparation, we pay homage to a tradition that has delighted palates for generations. Whether you’re a seasoned chef or a curious food enthusiast, making suya at home invites you to explore the rich flavours and cultural significance of this beloved street food.

Indulge in the making of suya and savour a piece of West African heritage. Bon appétit!

Note:

The Suya Meat Seller (Locally called Mai Suya), name is Mallam Auwalu Garba from Alkaleri, Alkaleri Local Government, Bauchi State, Nigeria.

References

The video was provided by Theodore Udeh (Native name: Ejikemme) who is collaborating with me on the project to document traditional Nigerian recipes.

Frobenius, Leo. (Originally published: 1913) The Voice of Africa, Being an Account of the Travels of the German Inner African Exploration Expedition in the Years 1910-1912. Relevant quotes from this work is hosted at: “Meat and Groundnuts in Ancient Africa: Extracts from Old Manuscripts and Early Writings“

Featured Image: https://cheflolaskitchen.com/suya/