Counting Nitrogen Atoms – Part 4: The Background of the History of Nutrition

Counting Nitrogen Atoms – The History of Determining Total Meat Content (Part 4): The Background of the History of Nutrition
By: Eben van Tonder
28/12/18

high protein diet

Previous Installments in Counting Nitrogen Atoms

Part 1:  From the start of the Chemical Revolution to Boussingault

Part 2:  Von Liebig and Gerard Mulder’s theory of proteins

Part 3:  Understanding of Protein Metabolism Coming of Age

Introduction

As background to the Kjeldahl method of nitrogen determination and the Jones factors, commonly used to determine lean meat content, we look at the history of the discovery of nitrogen in protein.  These methods link the relatively fixed proportion of nitrogen in protein to the calculation of protein content and are the basis of the determination of lean meat content.

The background story of nitrogen and protein is told through two lenses as described by two giants in science. The lens we concluded within our last instalment in the history of unravelling protein metabolism up to the early 1960s.  I relied mostly on the work of Hamish Nisbet Munro who was described in a biography written for the National Academy of Sciences by Robert M. Russell and Nevin S. Scrimshaw as “by far this generation’s most illustrious and productive expert on mammalian protein metabolism.”  In one of the closing paragraphs of the previous article, I quoted Hamish when he wrote, that in “1810 Gay-Lussac, pupil of Lavoisier’s colleague, Berthollet, devised a system of analysis of organic compounds which allowed the identification of the nitrogen-rich organic compounds we know as the proteins . . .  To the laboratory of Gay-Lussac came the young Liebig in 1823, to take back to Germany the new science of organic analysis and apply it to the study of biological materials. In Munich, Liebig had in 1854 as a pupil in his class in chemistry Carl Voit, who was to lay the foundations of modern studies on nitrogen balance. In Voit’s laboratory, numerous investigators from Germany and from abroad underwent a period of training—including Rubner, who especially studied the specific dynamic action of proteins; Atwater and Lusk, who continued the study of protein metabolism in America; and Cathcart, who returned to Scotland and was the teacher” of none other than Hamish Munro himself, thus endowing him with the best possible credentials to tell the story.

“In 1946, Hamish received his first grant from the British National Research Council and set up a research unit at Glasgow University to study metabolic responses to injury. He then accepted a position as assistant professor in the Physiology Department at Glasgow University and transferred to the Biochemistry Section, where he remained for 20 years, during which time he rose to the rank of professor.  Throughout this period, Hamish continued his studies on protein metabolism and also ventured into the investigation of nucleic acids and protein metabolism. Toward the end of this time, he completed his first two volumes of Mammalian Protein Metabolism, coauthored with James B. Allison.”  (Russel and Scrimshaw, 2014)  It was the last section of his first chapter of this work that we quoted in its entirety in our 3rd instalment of “Counting Nitrogen Atoms – The History of Determining Total Meat Content.”  In 1966 Hamish was recruited as professor of nutritional biochemistry and metabolism in MIT’s new Department of Nutrition and Food Science.

The second lens that we used to look at the history of nitrogen and protein and our historic understanding of the relationship between the two is through the unfolding history of nutrition.  Here we relied mostly on the work of another icon in the scientific community namely Kenneth Carpenter.

Kenneth . . . “was an eminent British nutrition scientist whose career, spanning approximately 60 years, was almost equally spent in the UK and the USA. In the UK, from 1946 to 1976, he focused on some of the key nutrition issues of the time, starting with B vitamins, including niacin, folic acid, and riboflavin, and moving on to the influence of processing and storage on protein quality. He pioneered the notion of nutrient bioavailability and the concept that a nutrient can be present in a foodstuff, as measured analytically, but is not absorbed and utilised because it is present in a non-digestible bound form. His research led to the identification of bound niacin in maize and explained why pellagra was common in most but not all maize-eating populations. He identified bound lysine in certain high-protein animal foods and explained why chickens and pigs fed rations based on ‘high-lysine’ fishmeals, meat meals or milk powder did not grow as well as would be expected. The Carpenter analytical method to measure available lysine in foods based on fluorodinitrobenzene (FDNB) is still a standard laboratory procedure. It has been used extensively in the milk industry to control lysine losses during heat processing so as to ensure the nutritional quality of infant formula and complementary foods.”  (Hurrell, R. F., 2018)  Kenneth was a historian of note even though he did not think of himself in those terms.  “In the USA from 1977 onwards, he gradually moved from nutrition research to the history of nutrition as he became more interested in the evolution of ideas in nutrition science. He is credited as making this complex history widely accessible to both serious scholars and the general public through a series of highly acclaimed monographs and papers. In his work, he saw himself as a nutrition scientist rather than historian as he did not, as does the classical historian, use archival records as a source of his information but reviewed early published literature and presented the problem as seen in the publications of the time.”  (Hurrell, R. F., 2018)

A moving obituary was published in the science column of The Guardian on Thursday, 12 January 2017 by Roger Carpenter.  He noted about his style that “Kenneth wrote with both elegance and clarity.”  It is this clarity that I enjoy in his work and will return to his work many times.  His paper on the nutritive value of meat meals which was done in 1970 with Atkinson is of particular interest.  There is his work on the impact of storage on protein quality, obviously of immense interest. Another is his work on the influence of raw materials and processing on protein quality and the many articles on the effect of heat on protein that will have to be digested fully at some stage so that we can glean the full value from the master.

He did four landmark articles entitled A Short History of Nutritional Sciences, Part 1, covering 1785–1885, Part 2, covering 1885–1912Part 3, covering 1912–1944 and Part 4, covering 1945–1985.  I already made extensive use of his work from part 1.  Part 2 – 4 are equally applicable as vital background information to our present study.  I decided to select information from these remaining 3 articles that directly speak to our subject of the history of the development our understanding of protein and in particular as it relates to the nitrogen content, in this section then, from the perspective of nutrition.  In the next instalment, I will directly move to the history of the Kjeldahl method of nitrogen determination and the Jones factors. A 6th chapter has to follow where we look critically at an evaluation of these methods of protein determination and better alternatives that emerged over the last few years.

The importance of a thorough understanding of protein in meat processing cannot be overstated since it is the essence of the subject matter. Its chemistry and physiology is the basis of every process and product. It is therefore fitting that in considering the determination of meat content, we should begin by reviewing how our current understanding of protein came about, both in terms of its metabolism and function in nutrition. 

Summary

Young, John Richardson, (1782–1804). Found that regurgitated stomach contents did not undergo acetous fermentation.

William Beaumon, (1785 – 1853). Viewed as the father of gastric physiology, he observed that gastric juice, which always contained hydrochloric acid, was secreted only in response to eating. He also saw that oily food was only slowly digested, but that it was speeded by “minuteness of division”.

Claude Bernard, (1813 – 1871). Discovered that the secretions into the small intestine from the pancreas, together with the emulsifying effect of the bile, were of the greatest importance for the digestion of fat into glycerol and free fatty acids, and its absorption.

Wilbur Atwater, (1844 – 1907). A student of Carl Voit, Atwater estimated that American workmen were generally better off and ate more than German counterparts. He also thought they worked harder and he set his standard required protein intake per day at 125 g/d.

Russell Chittenden, (1856 – 1943). A professor of Physiological Chemistry at Yale University, we review some of his work on low protein diets.

We review the discovery of amino acids and its implications to the study of nutrition.  The work of F. Gowland Hopkins (1861 – 1947) who the Nobel Prize in Physiology or Medicine in 1929, with Christiaan Eijkman, for the discovery of vitamins, and S. W. Cole who isolated tryptophan.  The work of Wilcock and  Hopkins in 1906 could show that mice lived longer on zein and tryptophan.  Tryptophan became the first amino acid to be recognized as being essential for the normal growth of young animals.

We examine the work of William Cumming Rose (1887 – 1985) and colleagues who discovered the amino acid threonine and his research determined the requirement for essential amino acids in diets.  Their work showed that mixtures of amino acids could replace protein completely in a diet.

We look at the unusual studies by Elsie Widdowson, (1906 – 2000) and dr. Robert McCance (1989 – 1993), responsible for overseeing the government-mandated addition of vitamins to food and wartime rationing in Britain during World War II.

Finally, we consider the state of the world in the 1960’s when a senior nutritionist said, “We have moved from the era of vitamin research to protein research,” and the head of the Nutrition Division of FAO (the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations) wrote that, “deficiency of protein in the diet is the most serious and widespread problem in the world.”  We end by concluding that measuring nitrogen and nutritional value of meat products is not just a matter of complying with government regulations but is a deeply moral question as well, deserving the NPD departments full attention.

Digestion

The question of digestion had to be solved for is to understand how a balance of ingested nitrogen was possible.  Kenneth brilliantly reviews the impact of the work of the American, John Young at the beginning of the 1800s who had found that regurgitated stomach contents did not undergo acetous fermentation, which was contrary to the current opinion.  Then, some 20 years later there was William Beaumont who, as an army surgeon, “had the opportunity to become a pioneering physiologist. At a remote trading post a young man was accidentally shot in the stomach and the wound left a permanent fistula through which food samples could be introduced and removed. Because the victim was destitute, Beaumont took him into his house and used him as a subject intermittently for almost 10 y. He observed that gastric juice, which always contained hydrochloric acid, was secreted only in response to eating. He also saw that oily food was only slowly digested, but that it was speeded by “minuteness of division”.” (Carpenter)

“In the 1850s, “Claude Bernard discovered that the secretions into the small intestine from the pancreas, together with the emulsifying effect of the bile, were of the greatest importance for the digestion of fat into glycerol and free fatty acids, and its absorption. This and the later discoveries of the proteolytic activity in the small intestine, to be discussed later made the study of purely gastric digestion seem less important.””  (Carpenter)

Diseases Due to Nutritional Deficiencies

“In 1842 George Budd, Professor of Medicine at King’s College, London, gave a memorable lecture titled “Disorders resulting from defective nutriment,” from which these are some of his opening comments: “There is no subject of more interest to the physiologist or of more practical importance to the physician … than the disorders resulting from defective nourishment. … These disorders are, no doubt, frequently presented to us by the destitute poor in our large towns; but … from our not being acquainted with all the circumstances in which they arise, their real cause escapes us. It is only—as in ships, garrisons, prisons, and asylums—when large numbers of men … become affected with one disease, that our attention is fixed upon it, and that we can succeed in discovering its cause by considering what is peculiar in their circumstances”.  (Carpenter)

An understanding emerged that protein and the accompanying measurement of nitrogen content is not the only “wellness factor” in food. Kenneth brilliantly reviews the history of the development of the concept that nutrition is crucial to wellness at a time when the germ theory of disease was predominant.

Over the course of his life, he studied and wrote extensively on the history of the research into arctic scurvy, goitre, and cretinism, anemia among young women, beriberi, chicken polyneuritis, rickets in young children, infantile scurvy, adult scurvy, guinea pig scurvy, night blindness, and xerophthalmia and how the work on these contributed to our understanding of nutrition and its direct link to wellness.  Its importance to our goal is that it neatly introduces the subject of vitamins, minerals, and different amino acids profiles of protein.  This will especially become important in our next article when we evaluate the different ways that meat content can be measured and the total nutritional benefit of meat vs a plant-based diet.

Even looking back at the material we have covered so far, it explains some of the earlier results of animal studies that were fed only one kind of food in early “balanced trials” since the results may have been due to a vitamin deficiency and not protein deficiency.

Protein research continued

“Until this time, there had been little significant work in nutritional science in the United States, but Wilbur Atwater, born in 1844 in New England and by 1885, a professor of chemistry at Wesleyan University, was determined to change that. He had already spent several months in Munich studying the nitrogen balance procedures in use at the laboratory of Carl Voit, who had been Liebig’s protégé. Voit believed that people with sufficient income to choose the diet that they preferred would instinctively select a diet containing the amount of protein that they needed to remain healthy and productive. His estimate was that the average German workman doing moderate physical work chose to eat 118 g protein/d, and this became his standard. Atwater found that American workmen were generally better off and ate more. They also, he thought, worked harder and he set his standard at 125 g/d.” (Carpenter)

“With hindsight, it seems ironic that he should not have been more questioning concerning whether they really needed so much of this relatively expensive ingredient. Apparently, he looked to the German school of nutritionists as the authorities in a field in which he was only a newcomer. Voit accepted that vegetarians who lived on a much lower protein intake could remain in nitrogen balance, but he remained convinced that such people “exposed themselves to disadvantages”. The American group suggested that even if protein was not directly used as the fuel for muscular contraction, it provided the nervous energy required to “wish to make the effort”.” (Carpenter)

“The main thrust of Atwater’s work in this period was to analyze foods by the proximate system (nitrogen, fibre, ash, ether extract, moisture and “carbohydrate by difference”)) and to use these values to teach the poor how they could obtain their requirement for protein, the most expensive of their needs, more economically. An unfortunate effect of recommending diets only on the basis of the economic provision of protein and energy was that fruits and green vegetables became dispensable luxuries. At this period, the purchase of food typically took ∼50% of a working family’s income.”  (Carpenter)

The challenge to high protein standards came finally from Russell Chittenden, Yale University’s Professor of Physiological Chemistry. He had found some relief from what may have been a rheumatic condition after he had deliberately reduced his general intake of food, and particularly that of meat, and was greatly impressed by having fully maintained both his physical and mental activity, although his intake of protein had not been >40 g/d (equivalent to 48 g for someone of the “standard” weight of 150 lb).  (Carpenter)

“Chittenden then organized three controlled trials using low protein diets. In the first, Chittenden and three scientific colleagues remained healthy and in nitrogen balance for 6 mo on daily diets containing 62 g protein on average, after adjustment to “standard” body weight. The second trial used 11 corpsmen from the U.S. army who also remained in good health and physical condition with a standardized daily intake of 61 g protein. In the final trial, a group of 7 Yale student-athletes consumed ∼64 g protein (standardized) per day, maintained their levels of athletic performance and said that they felt better for it.” (Carpenter)

“Others were reluctant to accept Chittenden’s recommendation of such diets as representing “physiological economy,” and argued that the almost universal consumption of high protein diets in prosperous countries showed an important relationship that might not become apparent in short-term trials. He replied that his critics were reversing cause and effect; people did not become rich because they ate more protein but ate meat and other more expensive high protein foods because they had already attained an income sufficient to afford them. Later studies have only confirmed Chittenden’s findings.” (Carpenter)

Protein digestion and interconversion

“Throughout the writings of Voit, Atwater, and Chittenden, there was the unstated assumption that all proteins were of equal quality. Thus, Atwater had no doubt that meat protein in the diet could safely be replaced by the same quantity of protein from beans. With hindsight, this is surprising because Mulder’s hypothesis that all proteins contained the same radical had collapsed, and even the ratio of carbon : nitrogen had been reported to differ between “legumin” extracted from beans and some animal proteins.” (Carpenter)

“For most of the 19th century, even after the breakdown of Mulder’s theory, it had been assumed by workers in nutrition that proteins ingested in foods were absorbed almost intact and then modified in some slight ways, if necessary, to convert them from “fibrin” to “albumin,” for example. However, other workers studying the physiology of digestion first showed the existence of a substance (pepsin), secreted by the stomach wall, that converted proteins into more soluble derivatives. Liebig regarded this as being no more than breaking up aggregations of molecules, allowing them to pass through the gut more easily. A few years later, the pancreas was found to secrete another substance (trypsin) that further broke down the products of treating proteins with pepsin to produce materials that were noncoagulable, diffusible through parchment and included the chemicals tyrosine and leucine. This subject has been thoroughly reviewed, with full references, by Greenstein and Winitz in an easily available volume.”  (Carpenter)

“Now, tyrosine and leucine were already known as two of the compounds, first called “amino-bodies” and then “amino acids,” that chemists had obtained by boiling proteins in strong acids. These breakdown products had not been considered of interest to nutritionists because the kind of destruction affected by strong, boiling acids had been assumed to be quite different from what happened under the mild conditions in the gut. However, the discovery of amino acids as products in a biological system was obviously highly relevant, especially because analysts had already reported that proteins appeared to differ in the relative quantities of different amino acids that they yielded on treatment with acids.”  (Carpenter)

“There always seems to be a way around unwelcome findings and in 1895 Chittenden wrote: “We may well consider the formation of these amino acids in pancreatic proteolysis as a means of quickly ridding the body of any excess of ingested protein food, with the least possible expenditure of energy on the part of the system”. Thus, he was suggesting that the proteins that the body needed were still being absorbed pretty well intact, and it was just the unwanted surplus that was being broken down before its disposal. Even in 1902, a German textbook was saying essentially the same thing: “such a profound decomposition would be a waste of chemical potential energy, and a reunion of such products is highly improbable”.” (Carpenter)

“However, other workers in Germany and Denmark were studying whether animals could use mixtures of amino acids as substitutes for dietary protein. Most found that meat proteins treated with pepsin and trypsin for long periods, and apparently free of intact protein, did serve as nutritional substitutes when fed to adult dogs, but that acid hydrolysates of protein, even after neutralization and removal of excess salts, did not.” (Carpenter)

“It had been suspected that strong acid treatment was destroying some component of the protein because proteins, and even enzymic digests, gave a color reaction suggesting the presence of an indole derivative, but acid hydrolysates did not. Finally, in 1902, F. G. Hopkins and S. W. Cole, working in Cambridge, isolated the amino acid tryptophan, which contains an indole ring, from an enzymic digest and showed that it was destroyed by conditions of acid hydrolysis. Then in 1906, Hopkins and another colleague reported that mice receiving zein (which contains no tryptophan) as their sole protein source, lived longer if they also received a supplement of tryptophan. And in 1909, Abderhalden found that adult dogs could remain in nitrogen balance if the acid-hydrolysates of protein that they were receiving were supplemented with this amino acid. These results did not yet prove that tryptophan was utilized for protein synthesis because there was no growth, but they did show that this organic compound had some essential function.” (Carpenter)

Vitamins and Minerals

We skip over Kenneth’s review of the discovery of minerals as nutrient in the diet since it falls outside the scope of our investigation.  Save to say that it is an important constituent of ash obtained in meat analysis.  He brilliantly deals with the discovery of the value of selenium, chromium, zinc in diet and the bioavailability of minerals.

Protein

Amino acid patterns.

Precisely to our point, Kenneth returns to proteins.  He writes, “I have not tried to cover work designed to measure the quantitative requirements for individual nutrients; however, protein is not in this category. No two proteins are identical, nor is the mix of proteins from one food identical to that from another. Therefore, the question remained as to how closely the amino acid pattern of our food needed to match that of our body proteins, which in practice related to the extent to which either animal protein or synthetic amino acids were needed to balance vegetable proteins for a diet to be ideal.” (Carpenter)

“Workers hoped to overcome this problem by stating requirements in terms of individual amino acids, but in 1945 it had not been demonstrated that mixtures of amino acids could completely replace protein in the human diet. William Rose and his colleagues at the University of Illinois had been working to resolve this since 1942 and they reported their findings from 1948 to 1955.”  (Carpenter)

Rose’s findings of the amino acids needed by the growing rat and the quantities needed for nitrogen balance in young men.

Amino acids found essential for the growing ratDaily need of human adultsSubjects tested
 gn
Lysine0.4–0.827
Tryptophan0.15–0.2531
HistidineNot needed
Phenylalanine0.8–1.122
Leucine0.5–1.18
Isoleucine0.65–0.78
Threonine0.3–0.519
Methionine0.8–1.113
Valine0.4–0.823
Arginine2Not needed
Total of the upper levels of essential amino acid needs6.35 

“Additional glycine and urea were added to raise the total nitrogen intake of the men to 10 g/day, equivalent to 62.5 g crude protein. In further trials with double the upper level of each essential amino acid, it was found that nitrogen balance could be maintained if urea was eliminated and the glycine reduced to 6.5 g/d, so that the total nitrogen content of the diet was only 3.85 g, equivalent to 24 g of crude protein.” (Carpenter)

“Arginine can be synthesized by the rat, but not at a sufficiently rapid rate to meet the demands for growth. Its classification, therefore, as essential or non-essential is purely a matter of definition).” (Carpenter)

“They found that young men would remain in nitrogen balance with surprisingly low levels of amino acids (equivalent to only 24 g crude protein) but only with energy intakes higher than were required with equivalent quantities of intact protein. This was disturbing because it was known that increased energy intakes had an effect on the retention of nitrogen. Even though the quantitative requirements had a question mark attached to them, Rose made the point that the list of essential amino acids required by human adults must now be complete because, in the absence of even one, nitrogen balance would not be obtained at any level of intake.” (Carpenter)

The nitrogen balance (g/d) of an experimental subject receiving 10 g nitrogen/d and either 35 or 45 kcal/d of total energy intake.

Nitrogen source35 kcal/d145 kcal/d
Whole casein+0.14 (7)1 ; +0.46 (5)+0.63 (5)
Acid-hydrolyzed casein + tryptophan−0.29 (8)+0.50 (6)
Enzymically hydrolyzed casein−0.09 (6)
8 essential amino acids + glycine + urea−0.91 (6)+0.33 (5)

Duration of test period (d).

“Elsie Widdowson and Robert McCance took advantage of the unusual situation in Germany after World War II when food rations were severely limited, so that it was ethical to compare the performance of orphanage children receiving different kinds of special supplements. One group of 47 children was provided with all the bread (85% extraction, i.e., brown but not whole wheat) that they could eat, with calcium and vitamin supplements and their small ration of milk that contributed only 8.8 g protein. Another matched group received the same with extra milk providing three times as much animal protein. These treatments continued for 6 mo under careful supervision. The children, averaging age 9–10 y, grew equally well on both diets, even though in one <12% of their energy came from protein and of this only 14% was animal protein (or “first class” according to some writers). It is unfortunate that this important study was published in a series of monographs not available in many academic libraries, although some of the results have been summarized and discussed elsewhere.” (Carpenter)

The performance of orphanage children receiving unrestricted bread and different rations of milk for 6 mo.

 Low milkHigher milk
Protein intake, g/d  
    85% extr. wheat bread41.034.6
    Other vegetable foods11.511.5
    Animal foods8.826.5
    Total61.472.6
Total energy intake, kcal/(kg · d)66.667.0
Nitrogen intake, mg/(kg · d)322381
Weight gain over 6 mo, kg2.52.5
FAO/WHO calculations  
    N gain, mg/(kg · d)13.913.9
    Obligatory N loss, mg/(kg · d)7373
    Theoretical N need, mg/(kg · d)8787
    Efficiency required of dietary N, %2723

“These orphanage children were growing both in height and weight at a rate ∼25% above the average for their ages, perhaps as a “catch up” phenomenon. It is notable that this was possible on the low protein diet, in which mixed proteins themselves contained only ∼3.7% lysine, about half the level in our own body proteins. Human growth is extremely slow and the children were estimated to have gained on average only 14 mg N/(kg body wt·d) with an intake of 322 mg/(kg·d).” (Carpenter)

“A group at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology suggested that, although people on relatively low protein intakes were in nitrogen balance, their equilibrium might be at the expense of lower rates of protein turnover and of potential synthesis of antibodies when exposed to infection. This was an important question and by 1985 procedures were being developed for its measurement using turnover and oxidation studies with isotope-labeled amino acids. However, no definitive answer had been obtained and another worker recommended caution in justifying the need for increased protein on the basis of such measurements.” (Carpenter)

“It was also demonstrated that the requirement of growing chicks for the limiting essential amino acid, lysine, was increased from 0.85% of the diet to ∼1.1% when the total level of protein in the diet was raised from 20% to 30%. Alfred Harper and colleagues at Wisconsin then demonstrated that adding a single amino acid at a fairly high level, for example 2% l-histidine to a diet containing 12% casein (plus methionine) that supported rapid weight gains (56 g in 9 d) in young rats, could inhibit their appetite and performance (in this example to 45 g). Attempts have been made to divide effects of this general kind into toxicities, antagonisms and imbalances. However, there was no evidence that they were likely to occur in practice with humans. One possible concern was that high protein Western diets might be causing an acidosis that resulted in a compensating loss of calcium, and thus of bone.” (Carpenter)

The world protein problem.

“The period had begun therefore with studies indicating that the supply of protein, at least for diets based on cereals, was not a problem. Nevertheless, in 1960, a senior nutritionist said, “We have moved from the era of vitamin research to protein research,” and the head of the Nutrition Division of FAO (the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations) wrote that, “deficiency of protein in the diet is the most serious and widespread problem in the world”.” (Carpenter)

“This idea grew from the finding that a serious disease, called “kwashiorkor” in West Africa and recognized by flaky dermatitis, hair changes, edema and apathy, was also common among 1–4-y-old children in other parts of the developing world. It was found to respond to concentrated relatively high protein nutritional supplements such as skim milk powder, and the previous idea that it was an infantile form of pellagra was abandoned because it did not respond to nicotinic acid or other B-vitamins.” (Carpenter)

“Kwashiorkor was also characterized by liver damage and, because cirrhosis of the liver was common among adults in Africa, it was initially suspected at FAO that the African diet remained protein-deficient throughout life, and that the same might be true throughout the developing world. Milk and milk powder was expensive and in short supply, and it was urged that substitutes needed to be developed.” (Carpenter)

“Much work was carried out in areas where the problem existed, for example at the Institute for Nutrition in Central America and Panama, to develop and test cheaper alternatives to milk powder based on locally available cereals and oilseed flours. These could prevent the condition from developing and also cure it, although not quite as quickly as with milk powder. Individual babies could also be deficient in electrolytes and vitamins as well as in protein and energy. Others suggested that essential fatty acids might also be deficient.” (Carpenter)

“In 1968 the United Nations published a paper entitled International Action to Avert the Impending Protein Crisis. By then, several projects had been set up, with substantial funding (some from governments and foundations), to develop processes and machinery in advanced countries for the preparation of stable, solvent-extracted high protein powders from fish [fish protein concentrate (FPC)] and other materials. This was encouraged by enthusiastic international conferences, even though the original idea had been to devise new crops or simple methods of food processing that could be adopted in underdeveloped villages. In addition, even more sophisticated processes were being planned to produce “single cell protein” (SCP) from yeasts, fungi and bacteria, grown on media ranging from molasses waste to petroleum. Doris Calloway drew attention to the poor tolerance and even toxicity of some SCP materials, and that their high content of nucleic acids was also a problem for humans, who metabolize purines only to the relatively insoluble uric acid, so that they were more suited for animal species that do not have this problem.” (Carpenter)

““Hi-tech” projects, which were supposed to be aiding relatively primitive communities, received particularly bitter criticism from the faculty at the London School of Hygiene and Tropical Medicine who referred to “a continuing process of justifying scientific enthusiasms by the drawing of facile and tenuous links between research which is intellectually exciting to the investigator and problems which are of sufficient public concern to make it politically attractive to devote funds to them”. Even in the U.S., where scientists are usually less willing to risk giving offense, the leader of the government-financed FPC project was to say later (in a book worth reading) that, “Much of the motivation for FPC development had little or nothing to do with the ostensible and well-publicized humanitarian goal”.” (Carpenter)

“This is an episode in our history that nutritional scientists would probably like to forget, but one use of history is to learn from our mistakes and to not repeat them. It was brought to an end by the realization that most kwashiorkor victims had been receiving diets that were as deficient in energy as they were in protein, and too bulky for the youngsters to take in sufficient amounts. The general need was to provide more concentrated foods and correct electrolyte deficiencies rather than concentrate just on protein. It was especially difficult to improve diets based on roots such as cassava that were very bulky as well as low in protein. The United Nations Organization, which had previously emphasized its concerns about “a world protein problem,” made no mention of it at its 1974 World Food Conference.” (Carpenter)

“The synthetic production of essential amino acids likely to be first-limiting in Third World diets was also stimulated in the 1960s. Although results with human trials were generally disappointing, these compounds have found practical uses in intensive pig and poultry feeding.” (Carpenter)

“I include the last section for an important reason.  The matter of the determination of meat content is not just an academic consideration for the purpose of complying with some arbitrary national legislative requirement.  There is an important moral consideration also.” (Carpenter)

Conclusion

With this set of articles and extracts from some of the best sources on earth, a very broad background is set for a detailed evaluation of the Kjeldahl method of nitrogen determination and the Jones factors, commonly used to determine lean meat content.  We achieved much more here.  We moved protein and its role in human nutrition to the front and central position in terms of meat processing.  Bacon and sausages, like all processed meats, are designed as delicacies for the wealthy.  There is no question about this.  It is, however, also the staple of the poor and the challenge and responsibility of the meat processor who targets these markets are to provide protein sources that are both delicious and affordable so that every person on earth can enjoy it and derive the maximum nutrition from it.  As a personal rule of thumb. Myself and my son, determined not to produce something that we are not prepared to eat ourselves or give to our family in the same quantities that clients are likely to consume.


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References:

Carpenter, K. J.; A Short History of Nutritional Science: Part 1, 2, 3, 4, which appeared in The Journal of Nutrition. The links to the four articles are given below.

A Short History of Nutritional Science: Part 1 (1785–1885)

A Short History of Nutritional Science: Part 2 (1885–1912)

A Short History of Nutritional Science: Part 3 (1912–1944)

A Short History of Nutritional Science: Part 4 (1945–1985)

Hurrell, R. F..  2018.  Kenneth John Carpenter (1923 – 2016).  British Journal of Nutrition. Volume 120, Issue 5, 14 September 2018, pp. 594-596.  https://doi.org/10.1017/S0007114518001733

Russell, R. M., and Scrimshaw, N. S..  2014. Hamish N. Munro 1915–1994 Biographical Memoires.

Photo Credit:  https://www.webmd.com/diet/ss/slideshow-high-protein-diet

Soy and Pea Protein and what in the world is TVP?

Introduction

Meat processing is a study in protein, its functionality and characteristics. Soy protein is a very popular meat extender and alternative protein for meat. I am considering its use in a econo bacon formulation and we already use soy protein extensively in sausage formulations. Pea protein emerged as a good alternative.

There are drawbacks using legume protein generally. Both soy and peas are part of the legume family. Allergens and taste are the main ones. Legume proteins have a distinct “beany” and “hay-like” flavor that is hard to mask (Rackis et al., 1979, as cited in Aspelund and Wilson, 1983, p. 539). These off-flavors may contribute to a reduced consumer acceptance for food products and thus also the success for these kinds of food products on the market (Owusu-Ansah and McCurdy, 1991). (Söderberg, J., 2013)

Another “drawback with using legume proteins in foods is the facts that they have limiting amino acids (Leterme et al.,1990) and that they contain anti-nutritional factors that affect the digestibility and thus, the bioavailability of proteins in a negative way (FAO, 2011).

One benefit of using pea protein instead of soy is allergens. Pea allergy is rare (San Ireneo et al., 2000) and studies show that the functionality and protein quality of pea may be as good as those of soy protein (O’Kane et al., 2004), making pea protein a viable alternative. (Söderberg, J., 2013)

The use of soy in meat formulations are however so wide spread that, depending on the particular market you formulate for, it may be unavoidable due to cost considerations. The question then comes up if alternatives to soy TVP exists. Besides, we found that soy based extended meat products have a massive appeal in certain market segments in South Africa.

Summary

I use the masters thesis submitted by Johanna Söderberg to the faculty of natural resources and agricultural sciences, Department of Food Science at the Swedish University of Agricultural Sciences, as basis for comparing soy and pea proteins on their own. How do they fare if we compare the two products head to head. I quote relevant parts of her thesis with a few short comments.

The entire thesis is available for upload under the reference section.

We then move to understand what TVP is. In our emulsified sausage formulation we use soy isolates. Soy concentrates are available but we mostly use it in its texturized form as TVP in fresh sausage formulations. What exactly is Textured Vegetable Protein?

We conclude the article by asking if there are alternatives to soy TVP. What about blends? How do they compare with soy, by far, the best plant protein to be used in meat formulations for certain market segments.

Functional properties of food proteins

“The functional properties of a protein are:

“Those physical and chemical properties, which affect the behavior of proteins in food systems during storage, processing, preparation and consumption. It is these characteristics, which influence the ‘quality’ and organoleptic attributes in food.” (Kinsella, 1982, p. 51).” (Söderberg, J., 2013))

“The functional properties of a protein are affected by both intrinsic and extrinsic factors. The intrinsic factors are: shape, size, amino acid composition and sequence, the distribution of net charges, the ration between hydrophobicity/hydrophilicity, secondary, tertiary and quaternary structures of the protein as well as the protein’s capacity to interact with other components in the food system (Damodaran, 1997). The extrinsic factors that affect the functionality of proteins are: pH, temperature, moisture, chemical additives, mechanical processing, enzymes and ionic strength (Kinsella, 1982). There are proteins that are associated with specific functional properties, such as egg proteins with coagulation, or soy proteins for their use in forming food gels (Vaclavik and Christian, 2003). Some example of functional properties can be seen in Table 1 (Kinsella, 1982).” (Söderberg, J., 2013)

Table 1. Functional properties of proteins in food applications

In order to evaluate if a protein is applicable and suitable in certain food systems and food products, it is important to characterize the functionalities of the protein (Kinsella 1982; Vaclavik & Christian 2003). For the proteins to be used in foods they must possess or contribute characteristics that are appropriate in interaction with other food components (e.g. water and lipids) or be suitable for processing. The functional properties that are required from a protein vary with different food applications and food systems. The three most important functional properties of food proteins in general are solubility, emulsification and foaming (Kinsella, 1982).” (Söderberg, J., 2013)

“The type of functional requirements that are needed of a protein in different food systems is shown in Table 2. It is important to remember that no single protein exhibits all the functional properties (Vaclavik and Christian, 2003).” (Söderberg, J., 2013)

Table 2. Functional properties performed by functional proteins in food systems.

“Proteins must show good and multiple functionalities in order to perform well in food systems. This requires a deeper understanding of the structure-function relationship, which sometimes can be hard to determine. One reason why proteins possess such different functional properties is the fact that all proteins are built up by different amino acids (Nakai, 1983). The amino acid composition affects the functional properties of a protein according to how they are disposed in the polypeptide chain, as well as what type and how many of those amino acids that are present (Kinsella, 1981).” (Söderberg, J., 2013)

“Something worth mentioning, but that will not be discussed further in this study, is that to improve the functionality and nutritional quality of the protein, modification of the proteins can be applied (Barac et al., 2010). Enzymatic hydrolysis is the most common and simplest method. During this process the protein is treated with an enzyme, acid or alkali that degrades the protein to its amino acid constituents (Lasztity, n.d.).” (Söderberg, J., 2013)

Solubility

The solubility of a protein is the most important functional property since the protein needs to be soluble in order to be applicable in food systems. Other functional properties like emulsification, foaming, and gelation are dependent on the solubility of proteins (Vaclavik and Christian, 2003). Solubility can be described as when equilibrium exists between hydrophilic and hydrophobic interactions. The solubility of a protein is related to the pH, where it is minimal at the isoelectric point, making the environmental pH the most important factor when it comes to the degree of protein solubility. The solubility is also influenced by temperature and ionic strength, (Bolontrade et al., 2013). Freezing, heating, drying and shearing are also factors that have an influence of protein solubility in food systems (Vaclavik and Christian, 2003). Insoluble proteins are not good for food applications and thus it is important that denaturation caused by e.g. heat is controlled so that the protein solubility will not be affected in a negative way (Raikos et al., 2007).” (Söderberg, J., 2013)

Emulsions

Emulsions consist of two liquids that are immiscible, where one of the liquids is dispersed in the other in form of small droplets. Emulsions can be classified according to the distribution of the oil and the aqueous phase. A system where the oil droplets are dispersed in the aqueous phase is called oil-in-water emulsion (O/W). Food systems like this are mayonnaise, milk, cream, soups and sauces. The opposite of an O/W emulsion is water-in-oil (W/O) but there are also water free emulsions and multiple emulsions (O/W/O or W/O/W). The droplets in an emulsion are called the dispersed (or internal) phase, whereas the surrounding liquid is referred to the continuous (or external) phase (Dickison and McClements, 1995, as cited in McClements, 2005, p.3).” (Söderberg, J., 2013)

“When water and oil are homogenized they rapidly separate into two layers, one layer of oil, which has high density, and one layer with water that has low density. This is called phase separation and has to do with the fact that the droplets fuses together with adjacent droplets that are similar to themselves. To get a stable emulsion (both in a short and long term perspective) it is of great importance to add an emulsifier. An emulsifier is a surface-active molecule that allows the two phases to homogenize. Surface-active molecules are mostly amphiphilic i.e. they have both hydrophobic and hydrophilic parts, which allow the two liquids to blend together.” (Söderberg, J., 2013)

Foaming

Foams consist of a gas phase, a liquid phase and a surfactant (e.g. proteins) and whipping or shaking form foams. Foods made up by foams are e.g. whipped toppings, meringues, ice creams, chiffon desserts and angel cakes (Kinsella, 1981; Yang and Baldwin, 1995). Angel cakes and other baked goods are solid foams. Foams are formed through unfolding and absorption of the protein, at the air-water interface, as well as film formation around the air bubbles. Different proteins have different abilities to form and stabilize foams, and just as in the case of proteins and their different emulsifying properties, this is related to different physical properties of the proteins. For a protein to have superior foaming properties, it must possess high solubility in the liquid phase as well as the ability of quickly forming a film around the air bubbles in the food system (Kinsella, 1981).” (Söderberg, J., 2013)

“The extrinsic factors that affect the foaming properties are e.g. pH, temperature and ionic strength. Foam stability and the proteins ability to form foams are also of big importance. In order for a protein to form stable foams the interfacial film should be rigid and not let the entrapped air escape (i.e. it should be almost impermeable). The protein should also have the ability to form strong bonds like hydrogen bonding and hydrophobic interactions. The protein should also possess limited denaturation at the surface to keep viscosity and rigidity (Kinsella, 1981).” (Söderberg, J., 2013)

Gelling / coagulation

The globular proteins’ gelling properties are of big importance in foods (Van Kleef, 1986; Beveridge et al., 1984). According to Ikeda and Nishinari (2001) is protein gelation one of the most important functional properties when it comes to modify the structure and texture of foods. One example is the importance of the gelation properties of egg in foods like cakes, omelets and confectionary. The texture of foods and thus, the gelation properties of a protein, affect consumer acceptability (Kiosseoglou and Paraskevopoulou, 2005).” (Söderberg, J., 2013)

“Globular proteins, such as egg white and soybean protein, are able to form gels upon heating (Doi, 1993). For a gel to form it is important that the functional groups (e.g. hydrophobic groups) within the protein are exposed. This makes it easier for the groups to interact and form a three dimensional network. Gel formation is complicated, and affected by the concentration of protein, amount of water, ionic strength, time and temperature as well as pH and interaction with other components in the food system (Raikos et al., 2007). The process for gelation in short, is:

The heat will make the native protein to denaturate, and during the denaturation disulfide bonds will be formed and hydrophobic amino acid residues are exposed (Shimada and Matsushita, 1980). After denaturation and further heating, the proteins will aggregate and interact with other proteins and form either a gel or a coagulum. Which type that is formed depends on conditions like molecular weight, heating time and protein concentration (Raikos et al., 2007; Shimada and Matsushita, 1980). The gel structure is a more structured network compared to the coagulum that is a disorganized aggregation (Raikos et al., 2007).” (Söderberg, J., 2013)

Legume proteins

Legumes are cheap and a high quality alternative to food based on animal products. They contain high amounts of proteins, dietary fibers, minerals and vitamins that are essential for good human health (Abd El-Hady and Habiba, 2003).The protein content in legumes varies between 17-30% depending on origin and the proteins are present as globulins (60-90%) and albumins (10-20%) (Sathe et al., 1984).

Today, soybean proteins are the most used and researched pulse proteins on the market, but the interest in functional properties and nutritional quality of unconventional legume proteins as an ingredient in new food products has increased (Chavan et al., 2001). The alternative legume proteins that are being researched are the ones that are believed to possess the same, or similar, functional properties and nutritional qualities as soy protein. The proteins should also have a price competitive to that of soybean (Marcone et al., 1998; Vose, 1980). One alternative pulse protein that is said to have big potential for food applications are pea protein (Pisum sativum L.) (O’Kane et al., 2004). Except the potential good functional properties of pea proteins, they are also said to be lesser in anti-nutritional substances than soy protein (Gwiazda et al., 1979), and are not classified as an allergen (like soy and egg proteins). This has to do with the fact that the allergic reaction to peas has been infrequent in humans (San Ireneo et al., 2000).” (Söderberg, J., 2013)

Soybean protein (Glycine max L.)

“Soy proteins are used in foods because of their excellent emulsifying and gelling properties, which mimic the functional properties of egg proteins (Ratnayake et al., 2012). Soybeans as well as soybean products are classified as a health food due to their content of e.g. omega-3 fatty acids, isoflavones, dietary fiber, essential amino acids and high protein content (Variyar et al., 2004) One drawback concerning soybeans is their very distinct flavor that is hard to mask, and thus, their application are limited to just some food products (Endres, 2001).” (Söderberg, J., 2013)

“Soybean proteins are used as a food ingredient in infant formulas, flours, protein isolates and concentrates as well as in textured form. Examples of soy foods are: imitation cheese, miso, tempeh, tofu and meat substitutes, and new soy foods are frequently developed (Liu, 2000; Singh et al., 2000, as cited in Friedman and Brandon, 2001, p. 1070).” (Söderberg, J., 2013)

“The functional properties that can be ascribed to the soybean proteins are solubility, water absorption and binding, viscosity, gelation, cohesion-adhesion, elasticity, emulsification, fat absorption, flavor binding and color control. Among the plant proteins, soybean proteins are the most studied (and thus the best understood plant protein) and are often used in comparison with other plant proteins in order to evaluate their functional properties (Mcwatters and Cherry, 1977).” (Söderberg, J., 2013)

Mainly soy protein isolates (SPI) and soy protein concentrates (SPC) are used in the food industry (Varzakas et al., n.d.). SPI has the highest protein content (90%) and are thus the most expensive (Riaz, n.d.). SPI are made from defatted soybean flakes, where the sugars and dietary fiber have been removed. It is used in a variety of foods. Some examples are dairy type products, fruit drinks, power bars, soups and sauces, meat analogs, bread and baked goods, breakfast cereals and protein powders (Soyfoods, 2013). SPI do not affect color and flavor of the end product to any great extent (Riaz, n.d.). SPC are made by removal of the carbohydrates from soy flakes or soy flours. It has a protein content of 65-70% and is used in foods like baked goods, breakfast cereals and meat products to increase nutritional value and functional properties (Soya, n.d.).” (Söderberg, J., 2013)

“Native soybeans have a protein content of 40% and they comprise the storage proteins albumin and globulin, where globulins are the dominant ones. The globulins are salt- extractable while the albumins are water soluble (Derbyshire et al., 1976). The globulins can be grouped into 7S globulins and 11S globulins according to their sedimentation coefficients (Shigeru Utsumi et al., 1997). The 7S globulins can be further divided into β-conglycinin, γ-conglycinin and basic 7S globulin (Bg) and all of them differ in their functional properties. As an example does Bg have a higher isoelectric point (pH 9.05-9.26) than the other globulins. The function of Bg is yet unknown (Shigeru Utsumi et al., 1997). β-conglycinin is a trimer and consists of four subunits: major α’, α and β and minor: γ (Shigeru Utsumi et al., 1997). The 11S globulins are also known by the name glycinin, which consists of disulfide-linked acidic and basic amino acids. There are two groups consisting of five subunits in the soybean glycinin that have been identified: A1aB2, A1bB1b, A2B1a (group I) and A3B4, A5A4B3 (group II) (Adachi et al., 2003; Mujoo et al., 2003). In soybeans it is the glycine and β-conglycinin that gives soy proteins their functional properties (Lee, 2011).” (Söderberg, J., 2013)

Pea protein (Pisum sativum L.)

Peas have a high content of proteins, minerals vitamins, starches and fibers. They are used in human foods like: soups, puddings, snacks, and stews or as sprouted. Peas are also used in animal feed, where they are mixed with cereals or canola oil in order to improve the protein quality (Betker, 1990; Hoang, 2012). Studies show that pea proteins may be a good substitute for soybean proteins as a functional additive in food products intended for human consumption (Barac et al., 2010; Maninder et al., 2007; Aluko et al., 2009), but in order to increase the utilization of pea proteins, their functional properties must be further evaluated (Aluko et al., 2009).

Pea protein concentrate (PPC) and pea protein isolate (PPI) have the biggest potential as food ingredients (Choi and Han, 2001). PPC is made from pea flour, where the protein has been removed from the starch granules by air-classification (Owusu- Ansah and McCurdy, 1991), resulting in a protein content of 47% (Sosulski and McCurdy, 1987). PPI is also made from pea flour but by aqueous extraction and isoelectric precipitation of the protein (Owusu-Ansah and McCurdy, 1991). The protein content in pea isolate is approximately 80% (Sosulski and McCurdy, 1987).

Peas have a protein content around 25 %, but the content varies depending on pea variety (Aluko et al., 2009; Gueguen and Barbot, 1988). Pea protein consists of legumin (11S), vicillin (7S) and albumins (2S), where 11S and 7S are the most abundant ones (O’Kane et al., 2005). The legumin and vicilin have similar amino acid composition and subunit structure as the glycinin and β-conglycinin of soy proteins (Derbyshire et al., 1976).” (Söderberg, J., 2013)

Functional properties of soy and pea protein

In order for the consumer to accept legume proteins in foods, and to optimize its utilization, the functional properties of the protein must be studied. It is the functional properties and nutritional value as well as the sensory characteristics of the legume proteins that are crucial for the quality and acceptance of the end product (Adebowale and Lawal, 2004). As mentioned in the beginning of this study, the functional properties of proteins are affected by environmental factors as pH, temperature and ionic strength. Due to limited published studies concerning some of these factors in relation to the functionality of soy and pea protein, they will only be discussed if applicable studies regarding this have been found.” (Söderberg, J., 2013)

Solubility

“Protein solubility is affected by extrinsic factors like pH, temperature and ionic strength (Bolontrande et al., 2013). The effect of pH on soy protein solubility (i.e. solubility profile) gives a u-shaped curve, where the highest solubility is shown to be on both sides of the isoelectric point, (pI) 4.5, with a high solubility above the pI and a low solubility below the pI (Lee, 2011). Lee et al. (2003) showed that commercial SPI and SPC had similar solubility profiles, but that the amount of soluble proteins in the two samples differed at same pH values. Since legume proteins have to go through thermal heating in order to remove the anti-nutritional factors, the effect of heating on protein solubility is extremely important (Lee, 2011). There are, however, few studies on how heat treatment affects soy protein solubility. Ionic strength also affects protein solubility. Renkema et al. (2001) studied the effect of NaCl on soy protein solubility as a function of pH. The results showed that high NaCl concentrations increased the solubility of the protein near its isoelectric point.” (Söderberg, J., 2013)

“Pea proteins also shows a u-shaped curve as a function of pH, with a high solubility above the pI, and a moderate solubility below the pI (Adebiyi and Aluko, 2011; Tömössközi et al., 2001). Tömössközi et al. (2001) showed that PPI had the same solubility profile as other legume proteins. Tian (1998) found that PPI had higher solubility than SPI, and the same was stated in a study performed by Naczk et al. (1986). Heat treatment studies regarding pea proteins are few. One study found showed, though, that heat treatment reduced the solubility of pea proteins (Habiba, 2002).” (Söderberg, J., 2013)”

Emulsifying properties

It has been reported that SPI shows great emulsifying properties. This is related to its high solubility and high protein content (Gwiazda et al., 1979).

Jideani (2011) write that SPI, as well as SPC, are good emulsifiers but that SPC shows lower emulsifying capacity than SPI. Environmental factors, such as pH, affect the emulsifying properties of soy protein and this was studied by McWatters and Cherry (1977). They saw that soybean flour was able to create a mayonnaise-like emulsion that was extremely thick (at pH 6.5 and pH 8.2). At lower pH values, a salad-like dressing emulsion was created. Emulsifying properties can be evaluated by the protein’s emulsion stability (ES) and emulsion activity (EA). The ES is a measure of the stability of the emulsion over a certain time span and EA is a measurement of how much oil a protein can emulsify per unit protein (Boye et al., 2010). Gwiazda et al. (1979) presented the result that SPI and SPC had different emulsifying properties. SPI showed an EA of 96%, and an ES of 92%. SPC had an EA of 55.6% and an ES of 56.8%. In the same study, pea protein concentrate showed an EA of 60.6 and an ES of 65.3%.” (Söderberg, J., 2013)

It has been reported that PPI have similar or better emulsifying properties than SPI (Vose, 1980). Aluko et al. (2009) showed that PPI actually had better emulsifying capacity than SPI. There is another study that shows a different result; Tömössközi et al. (2001) found that PPI had quite good emulsifying capacity but low emulsion stability in comparison to SPI. In a study done by McWatters and Cherry (1977) it is shown that the emulsifying properties of pea protein are minor compared to soy protein but it is still able to produce both semi-thick and thick mayonnaise-like emulsions at different pH values.” (Söderberg, J., 2013)

“The effect of temperature on the emulsifying properties of pea protein is that, when the temperature increase the emulsifying properties decrease. It has also been reported that addition of NaCl increase the emulsion capacity of both pea and soy proteins but that the emulsion stability decreases with increased NaCl concentrations (Tian, 1998).” (Söderberg, J., 2013)

Both pea and soy isolates are therefore effective ingredients in an emulsion type sausage. I would not use protein concentrates in emulsified products. In choosing between soy, pea or a blend of soy and pea isolates, I would do extensive tests to verify under factory conditions with specific list of ingredients to determine which one is better due to the Tömössközi et al. (2001) results. As always, I would keep the temperature down in the emulsifier or bowl cutter.

Foaming properties

“To evaluate the foaming properties of a protein, foam stability (FS), foam capacity (FC) and foam expansion (FE) can be measured. FE and FC are measured in volume (%) when whipped, while the volume of the foam over time (normally 0-30 min) gives the protein’s FS (Boye et al., 2010). In a study done by Boye et al. (2010) SPI showed a FE of 41.8% and a FS of 93 %.” (Söderberg, J., 2013)

“Fuhrmeister and Meuser (2003) showed that the foam forming properties of pea protein isolate were best at pH 5 and 7. The stability of the foam showed to be much lower than that of egg white. In a study done by Fernández-Quintela et al. (1997) the FE of pea protein showed to be around 15 % and the FS around 94 %. The FC was greater in acid and alkaline regions. The FS increased with pea protein concentration and ionic strength (Akintayo, et al., 1999). Another study showed, however, that the FS of pea protein was around 76-79%. The foam volume also decreased relatively fast compared to other legume proteins. It was also shown that PPI had a significantly higher FC than SPI. The foam stability of PPI was better than SPI at pH 5.0 but minor in other pH values (Toews and Wang, 2013). Tian (1998) showed that the addition of NaCl improved the foaming properties of pea protein, but only up to an addition of 0.5% (w/v). Increased temperature also improved the foaming properties.” (Söderberg, J., 2013)

Gelling properties

“Studies have shown that the concentration of soy proteins affects the hardness of the gel and that the gelation properties of soybean proteins depend on temperature, pH, and ionic strength. In SPI the ratio between β-conglycinin and glycinin can influence gelation (Renkema et al., 2001) Varzakas et al. (n.d.) studied the gelling properties of SPI and SPC. The results showed that both SPI and SPC showed different gelling strength at different protein concentrations and temperatures. The conclusion drawn was that strong gels were formed at low temperature and high protein concentrations.” (Söderberg, J., 2013)

For this reason SPC is an effective ingredient in non emulation, fresh sausage production. Im considering its inclusion in a catering bacon formulation where the temperature will not be raised above 48 deg C.

“O’Kane et al. (2004) write that pea protein forms more unstructured gels than soy protein and thus their gelling properties are not that good as those of soy. Akintayo et al. (1999) reported that pea protein concentrate (72 % protein) had low gelling properties. Another study showed that pea protein isolate forms a paste instead of a rigid gel (Adebiyi and Aluko 2011). Nunes et al. (2006) studied pea protein as a replacer of dairy and egg proteins in a gelled vegetable dessert. The results showed that pea proteins produced good gels that were highly applicable as a food product.” (Söderberg, J., 2013)

In choosing between soy, pea or a blend of the two, I would conduct extensive factory trails to choose between the two before I include it in bacon production.

Protein quality

“Food proteins are divided into high quality (complete) protein and low quality (incomplete) protein. A complete protein contains all the essential amino acids, while incomplete proteins have limiting amino acids. Limiting amino acids are the ones that are present in such low amounts that they are not able to take part in the synthesis of other proteins. Animal proteins are complete proteins, while plant proteins are incomplete proteins. If the intake of protein mainly consists of incomplete protein sources the body is not able to make certain amino acids. In order to get a more complete protein, protein from different sources, like legumes and cereals can be combined. This is called mutual supplementation (Gropper et al., 2012).” (Söderberg, J., 2013)

“Legume proteins are generally high in lysine, but the content of sulfur containing amino acids, like methionine and cysteine, is limited. Both soy protein and pea protein has a high content of lysine and low content of methionine, cysteine and tryptophan (Leterme et al., 1990). The tables below show the amino acid composition of soybean and pea.” (Söderberg, J., 2013)

“There are several ways to determine the quality of proteins. One of the most admitted and approved method is the protein digestibility-corrected amino acid score (PDCAAS) (Hughes et al., 2011). According to McMann (2000, p.7) is PDCAAS “based on several factors; a food proteins profile of essential amino acids; the digestibility of the protein and the protein’s ability to supply essential amino acids in the amounts needed to meet the requirements of growing human beings.” The PDCAAS is calculated by using the formulas prescribed by FAO/WHO (1991, as cited in Hughes et al. 2011, p.12708):

1) Amino acid score = Amino acid content of test protein / Reference amino acid pattern

2) PDCAAS = Amino acid score (of the most limiting amino acid) x true digestibility (%)

At first, calculation of the amino acid score is performed. This is done by dividing the content of the most limiting amino acid in the test protein by the content in one of the reference proteins. Thereafter, the result is multiplied with the true digestibility of the test protein. As an example: If a protein has a chemical score of 0.70 and a true digestibility of 80 %, the PDCAAS is calculated to 0.56 (Insel et al., 2004).” (Söderberg, J., 2013)

“The highest PDCAAS a food protein can get is 1.0 or 100% (Hughes et al., 2011; McMann, 2000) but it is also possible that the protein get a score over 1.00. This is usually truncated to 1.00 because the amino acid in excess are often not required and thus catabolized (Tome, 2012). A score of 1.00 means that the protein provides proper amounts of all the essential amino acids, assumed that the intake is in appropriate amounts (Hughes et al., 2011).” (Söderberg, J., 2013)

“The PDCAAS of soy protein show varying numbers in various studies, where SPI showed to have a PDCAAS ranging from 0.92 to 1.00 and SPC 0.99-1.00 (FAO/WHO, 1991; Sarwar, 1997, as cited in Hughes et al., 2011, p. 12707). There are also studies done that just show the PDCAAS value from soy protein, without defining the protein type further i.e. if its SPI or SPC. These studies showed the PDCAAS values of 0.94 and 0.99 (Gropper et al., 2012; Tome 2012). The reason why there is a variation in the PDCAAS values, was investigated by Hughes et al. (2011). In the study the SPI and SPC had to be truncated to 1.00 in the first testing, but the second testing showed values ranging from 0.95-1.00. The authors write that the variations may depend on errors in the analytical methods. Egg white protein has a PDCAAS of 1.00 and pea protein concentrate 0.73 (Hughes et al., 2011). No studies concerning PPI were found. For a summary of the PDCAAS for the various protein sources see table below.” (Söderberg, J., 2013)

“In the United States, using PDCAAS is required before labeling foods (Hughes et al., 2011). Gropper et al. (2012) write that before labeling foods with information about the amount of protein (g) as well as the Daily Value (%) for proteins, PDCAAS is used to determine the protein quality. If the food protein has a PDCAAS equal or higher in quality than milk protein, 50 g of protein is sufficient. However, if the PDCAAS is lower in quality than that of milk protein, an intake of 65 g protein is required to meet the Daily Value.” (Söderberg, J., 2013)

“Some studies found have criticized PDCAAS (Schaafsma, 2005; Hughes et al., 2011) and FAO (2011) write that this method may not be appropriate for novel protein with known anti-nutritional substances (factors that can disrupt the protein digestion and metabolism, see section 7.1), and that PDCAAS may overestimate the protein quality in these foods. Therefore, some other methods for measuring the protein quality will now be presented.” (Söderberg, J., 2013)

“There are several other ways to determine the quality of a food protein. One simple way is to compare the amino acid pattern of the test protein with the amino acid pattern of a reference protein (usually egg or milk protein). This is called amino acid score (AAS) or chemical score (CS) (Gropper et al., 2009).” (Söderberg, J., 2013)

“Chemical Score (CS) = mg of essential amino acid / mg essential amino acid in 1 g reference protein x 100

The essential amino acid that has the lowest chemical score is the limiting amino acid. The CS is not a good measure alone since it does not account for protein digestibility or amino acid bioavailability (FAO, 1992).” (Söderberg, J., 2013)

“The protein efficiency ratio (PER) is another way of determining protein quality. This method accounts for to what extent the body can use the protein in terms of digestibility and availability, and also reflects the amino acids composition (Insel et al., 2004).

Protein efficiency ratio (PER) = weight gain in g / protein intake in g

The PER method is based on how well the protein contributes to the growth in young rats and in recent years some questions have been raised towards this method. It is now known that PER overestimates values of certain animal protein, and underestimates values of certain plant proteins needed for human growth. Rats grow much faster, and thus, needs more essential amino acids than humans (Boutrif, 1991).” (Söderberg, J., 2013)

“Net protein utilization (NPU) is a measure of protein utilization within the body. The more nitrogen the body keeps, the higher NPU value and protein quality the protein has (Insel et al., 2004). This method is also performed by doing tests on young rats and it has the same drawbacks as the PER method (FAO, 1985).” (Söderberg, J., 2013)

“Net protein utilization (NPU) = nitrogen retained / nitrogen intake x 100

The biological value (BV) of a protein is a measure of how much protein the body absorbs and keeps for other processes in the body This method is also performed on laboratory animals (Insel et al., 2004).

Biological value (BV) = nitrogen retained / nitrogen absorbed x 100

In the table below, the values for the chemical score (CS), protein efficiency ratio (PER), nitrogen protein utilization (NPU) and biological value (BV) of whole egg, soy and pea are given.” (Söderberg, J., 2013)

Anti-nutritional factors

“Anti-nutritional factors (ANF) are naturally present or can be formed during processing of legume proteins (FAO, 2011; Sarwar Gilani et al, 2005). The seeds of legumes contain ANF like protease inhibitors, lecitins, tannins, saponins and phytates (Liener, 1994). These factors can affect the protein digestibility, and thus, amino acid bioavailability in a negative way (FAO, 2011). Different ways to remove or inactivate some of the ANF have been established through physical (e.g. dehulling) and chemical methods (e.g. soaking, heating, irradiation) (Melcion and Van der Poel 1993, as cited in Fernández-Quintela et al., 1997 p. 332). Factors as genetic selection, fermentation and germination are also used for the same purpose (Frias et al., 1995; Kozlowska et al., 1996; Kothekar et al., 1996). The content of ANF in soybean and pea varies depending on variety (Adsule and Kadam, 1989; Hedley, 2001, as cited in Vidal-Valverde et al., 2003, p. 298; Becker-Ritt et al., 2004).” (Söderberg, J., 2013)

“In a study by Khattab et al. (2009) different pulse proteins were investigated for ANF reduction; different heating methods showed to be the best. The authors strongly suggested that those methods were carried out before human consumption. Fernández-Quintela et al. (1997) showed that the tannin and phytase activity decreased after protein isolate preparation of soy and pea protein. The trypsin inhibitor activity was also reduced in SPI by 27 % and in PPI with 47 %. The tannins were reduced by 67% in SPI and the phytates by 30%. The phytase reduction in PPI was 46%.” (Söderberg, J., 2013)

“In order for legume proteins to be used as a substitute for animal proteins, it is of big importance that the quality as well as the traditional characteristics of the food is maintained. It is also important to remember that the organoleptic and kinesthetic properties e.g. color, flavor, taste, texture and appearance of foods, are related to the proteins in the food (Endres 2001).” (Söderberg, J., 2013)

“In order for pulse proteins, such as soy and pea protein, to be successful and gain consumer acceptance, it is important that the flavor (aroma and odor) of the product appeal to the customers (Heng, 2005). One of the constraints with using soy and pea protein in food products is the distinct off-flavors that are hard to mask. It is the volatile, saponins, and non-volatile, ketone and aldehyde compounds that are responsible for this (Murray et al., 1979). These off-flavors are often described in terms like “beany” and “green” and are formed during autooxidation or lipoxygenase activity (Rackis et al., 1979, as cited in Aspelund and Wilson, 1983, p. 539). The flavor compounds interact with the proteins in soybean and peas and therefore they are also present in isolates and concentrates, which limit the uses and lower the consumer acceptance for these products (Meyer, 1970; Kalbrener et al., 1971; Eldridge, 1978; Smith and Circle, 1978; Wolf and Cowan, 1975 as cited in Aspelund and Wilson, 1983 p. 539). Some studies show that it is possible to remove the off- flavor compounds (Even though many researchers have studied the functional properties of soy proteins, and to some extent those of pea proteins, there are limited. Organoleptic aspects, kinesthetic aspects and consumer acceptance of soy and pea protein foods, see Maheshwari, Ooi and Nikolov, 1995; Samoto et al., 1998).” (Söderberg, J., 2013)

“One way to do this is to remove the lipids. If the lipids are removed the proteins will not be able to bind to them (Wu et al., 2001). It is also of big importance to choose the right extraction method. Wu et al. (2011) reported that the extraction method may be efficient in the terms of removal of off-flavor compounds, but may have a negative effect on the functional properties of the protein, like denaturation of the protein or decreased protein solubility.” (Söderberg, J., 2013)

Schyver and Smith (2005) investigated what factors that affect soy food consumption. The results showed that those who consumed soy foods were the ones that wanted to exclude or minimize animal products in their diet, wanted to adapt a healthier lifestyle or had environmental concerns. The main reason why consumers continued to eat soy was the fact that they thought it tasted good. The non-consumers in this study thought the sensory attributes of soy products were unfavorable, but the main reason behind not consuming soy foods was the fact that they were unfamiliar with the products. Both consumers and non-consumers agreed upon the fact that in order to increase the soy consumption by non-consumers it was not necessarily to improve the taste but to improve the perception in soy foods. A study that points out the issues with perceived taste, was done by Wansink (2003). In this study a snack bar with soy as a phantom ingredient was tested. The result showed that the taste and attitudes towards the snack bar were negative. The conclusion drawn from this was the fact that consumers may exclude products labeled with soy ingredients and that perceived taste plays a substantial role in this.” (Söderberg, J., 2013)

Garcia et al. (2009) studied the acceptability of mayonnaise-type emulsions based on different concentrations of SPC and rice bran oil (RBO). It was shown that a higher content of SPC lowered the acceptability of the color in the final product. This was probably related to the fact that SPC are known to darken the products to which they are added. A high content of SPC also lowered the odor acceptability. Taste acceptability did not differ significantly among the samples (60.4-60.7 on a scale of 100). The mouth-feel score also showed that an addition of SPC over 8% was not accepted. The spreadability showed greater acceptance with higher content of SPC. The study also showed that few consumers were willing to buy this type of mayonnaise, mainly due to the bland taste. When an ultimate content of SPC had been established, the authors performed a test with this mayonnaise. The mayonnaise was presented in three different flavors and one plain. The results showed that the flavored ones were highly acceptable, and that the plain was not accepted at all (49%). Other results shown in the same study was that people who were health conscious selected this type of mayonnaise, and that the three most important attributes for purchasing this type of product were taste, mouth-feel and overall acceptability. The purchase increased (with 70%) when the health benefits of this type of products was exposed to the test panel.” (Söderberg, J., 2013)

“Tian (1998) carried out a study on the overall acceptability and beany flavor in sponge cakes and a mayonnaise-type product with pea protein as an egg replacer. The findings concerning the sponge cake showed that the panelist thought that a 25 % replacement of egg by pea protein did not give the product a beany flavor, and that a 75% replacement by pea protein was acceptable concerning the cake quality. The negative notations were that pea protein gave the sponge cake a crumbly and coarse mouth-feel at higher protein concentrations. Some of the panelist noted, though, that they liked the pea flavor in the sponge cake. This probably had to do with the different backgrounds of the participants. The acceptability of the mayonnaise-type product was high up to 25% replacement of egg, while 50% was not acceptable and the panelist described the mayonnaise as having watery texture and that the mouth- feel were coarse and oily.” (Söderberg, J., 2013)

“Northern Pulse Growers Association (2009) performed a baking test on how well pea protein isolate and concentrate could replace whole egg in cakes and cookies. The study compared cakes made with pea protein with those made with commercial cake and cookie mixes. The result was that the pea protein cakes were more moist and that pea protein isolate created higher cakes than pea protein concentrate and that the cakes was comparable in height to the reference cake. The protein isolate also created more moisture cookies than eggs. This study did not evaluate the sensory characteristics concerning consumer acceptance.” (Söderberg, J., 2013)

TVP

The cheapest form of soy is Textured Vegetable Protein. It is the form that we use in one of our fresh sausage formulations and the one that I want to use in an economic bacon formulation.

What is TVP?

TVP is described as “fabricated palatable food ingredients” made from edible protein sources including soy grits, soy protein isolates, and soy protein concentrates with or without ingredients added for nutritional or technological reasons. The end products is sold in several forms as fibers, shreds, chunks, bits, granules, slices, or other forms. It is prepared by dehydration, cooking, retorting, or other production methods, the integrity of the structure is retained and its characteristic chewy texture. TVP is a registered trademark of the Arthur Daniel Midland (ADM) company, in Decatur, Illinois, USA. TSP is a registered trademark of PMS Foods, now Legacy Foods in Hutchinson, Kansas, USA. It typically means defatted soy flour or concentrates mechanically processed by extruders to achieve meat like chewiness when rehydrates and cooked. TVP therefore refers to a broad category of products with distinct production processes and apart from broad similarities, have varied specific characteristics. Soy is most often used to produce TVP, but others cereals and legume products are used to produce it in a texturized for flour, isolates or concentrates. When buying TVP, it is important to understand the specific characteristics of the product you are buying. (Phillips and Williams, (Ed.), 2011)

What is it made off?

* Oilseed proteins: oilseed clops, soybeans, rapeseed/ canola, cottonseed, peanut/ groundnut, and sunflower seed. Sesame, safflower, and flaxseed are minor oilseeds proteins. (Phillips and Williams, (Ed.), 2011)

* Cereal proteins: Wheat, corn, rice, barley, oats, sorghum, grain amaranth.

* Legume and pulse protein: Beans, gram, guar, lentils, lupines, peas.

* Leaf proteins: Alfalfa, lucern, tobacco, mulberry bush, grass, sugar cane, cloves.

What raw material is used is heavily dependent upon availability and there are times when there is for example no leafy proteins available for TVP processing. Cost, functional and physiological characteristics, nutritional value and customs/ taste are other driving forces dictating the particular raw material used. (Phillips and Williams, (Ed.), 2011)

Soybeans as the main source for TVP production.

From oilseeds, soybeans is the main source of TVP production. Availability and cost are the main reasons for this. The basic process of production is cleaning the soybeans, drying, conditioning, cracking and then it is converted into flakes. Oil is extracted and the defatted soy product is then ground into soy flour. The same product is the starter product for producing soy concentrate and isolate. (Phillips and Williams, (Ed.), 2011)

Most TVP is made from flour, but sometimes, also from grits. The difference between the two is the particle size. The grits are course (10 – 20 mesh), medium (20 – 40 mesh), or fine (40 – 80 mesh). High-end TVP’s like soy fibre or high moisture meat analogs are made from soy concentrate and isolates. (Phillips and Williams, (Ed.), 2011)

Process for making TVP.

Both peas and soy are available in their their texturized form. The main method of production is through the use of extrusion technology. The product is re-hydrated to 60% or 65% moisture and blended into meat products. (Phillips and Williams, (Ed.), 2011)

Smith (1975) describes the process as a “process in which a moistened, expansile starchy and/ or proteinaceous material are plasticized in a tube by a combination of moisture, pressure, heat and mechanical shear. This result in a elevated product temperature within the tube, gelatinization of starchy components, denaturation of proteins, the stretching or restructuring of tactile components, and the exothermic expansion of the extrudate.” (Phillips and Williams, (Ed.), 2011)

Extrusion is used to restructure many protein based products to a texturized form. Mechanical and thermal energy are applied to the protein containing material. The macro molecules loose their organised state and form “a continuous, viscoelastic mass.” (Phillips and Williams, (Ed.), 2011)

It is typically bought in granular form of between 2mm and 12mm. It may be coloured to mimmic a particular type of meat and it may be flavoured. (Phillips and Williams, (Ed.), 2011)

Alternatives to Soy TVP

In response to rapid population growth, a study was done in co-operation with the Swiss Federal Institute of Technology in Zurich, Bühler AG into alternatives to soy TVP in terms of the sustainability, availability, texturizing capacity, nutritional value and taste of possible alternatives. “Promising raw materials were texturized either individually or as part of a mixture in a twin shaft heat extrusion process, and the properties of the end product were compared to those of soybean textrudates.” (Brugger, et al, 2017)

The results is interesting. “Promising alternatives were found which could partially or completely replace soybeans (Table below).

The mixture of pea isolate and gluten scored highest and exceeded the soybean reference in terms of protein content, amino acid profile and taste. In the future, feeling in the mouth and texture could be further improved upon by optimizing the process parameters.

The second best result was achieved by the mixture of pea isolate and soybean concentrate. This mixture achieved better results than the soybean reference except in the case of texture which was given particular weighting in this assessment. However, further improvements can be expected by optimizing the extruder parameters. Having said that, this end product served only as a partial replacement for soybeans.

Pea concentrate with gluten also achieved a good result. Here, the fact that the product color and protein content are better than the soybean reference is especially noteworthy. In addition, soybeans can be completely eliminated with this mixture. The amino acid profile could be further optimized by a third component. The combination of broad beans with gluten stands out as the only alternative through a better feeling in the mouth than the reference. Here too, the amino acid profile could be improved upon by adding other sources of protein.” (Brugger, et al, 2017)

Again, I made the entire article available below as a download. Mixtures of for example pea isolate and soybean concentrate are probably already commercially available and can already be incorporated into meat formulations if it makes sense from a price and functional properties standpoint.

Conclusion

The onus is more than ever on the NPD managers to keep abreast of rapid developments in the field of functional ingredients and extenders. I am excited to get to work on alternative formulations for products like catering bacon and braai grillers.

The key lesson I learned from the studies quoted above is that thorough studies should be done. If pea isolates, concentrates or TVP makes any economic sense, I have to test it against its soy counterparts and have to include the best blend available in the market as a 3rd alternative. The products must be tested and compared on every level before a final decision is made on product formulation. Practical factory and market conditions along with the variations of one particular formulation vary so much that none of these tests can be taken as fait accompli. At best it moves the alternatives onto the table of valid alternatives to be considered.

References

Brugger, C., Dellemann, J-P, Petry, C., Laporte, M., Müller, N., Windhab, E. J., Bühler AG, Swiss Federal Institute of Technology (ETH). 2017. Next Generation Texturized Vegetable Proteins. Food Marketing and Technology Download article: food_2_2017_proc.pdf

Phillips, G. O., Williams, P. S. (Ed.). 2011. Handbook of Food Proteins. Woodhead Publishing

Söderberg, J.. 2013. Functional properties of legume proteins compared to egg proteins and their potential as egg replacers in vegan food. Swedish University of Agricultural Sciences. Upload her thesis: soderberg_j_131101.pdf

Image Credit: http://www.nutritioningredients.co.uk/product/pea-protein-isloate/

Bobotie – its origins

Bobotie …

by Mansell Upham

A cursory dip into the extant earlier records reflecting Cape households & their interiors … reveals that there is still much we can dredge up & learn … if we take the time & trouble …

For example: very intriguing are the very few mentions in these earlier records of the actual ‘dish’ (as in utensil) named “boboti(e)” … most likely the real origin of the ‘dish’ (as in variety or preparation of food served as a meal) named “Bobotie” …

For the period (1673-1834) only 7 extant Christian / free-born / emancipated-from-slavery Cape of Good Hope (urban & rural) inventorized colonial households & their kitchens have “ke(e)tels”, “potjes”, “bekertjes” & “cups” which are recorded as having utensils / containers & which are specifically qualified with the adjective `boboti(e)` / `bobote` … as well as the quaint English `boboty`.

In 2 instances the “pan” is made of iron, while the “potjes” are tellingly referred to as “blaauw porcelein” [Japanese imari?] …

As for the owners, they are all what one could term the more wealthy `patrician` & urban & colonial administration types whom we can name individually & also sort by way of hierarchical `respectability` …

Already from this little bit of information, one can deduce … plausibly enough … that we have to do with BOTH spice containers & cooking pans …

We can further deduce that boboti(e) was probably initially a portmanteau Indonesian loanword word … or corruption thereof … for anything dealing with `spice` … from containers to utensils to the food itself … & also that the spice was coming from the East (Batavia & Ceylon) Europeward …

Cape households featuring boboty containers / utensils found recorded in the surviving records of the Cape Orphan Chamber are:

1752:

Beatrix LOUW widow of ondercoopman Johannes NEEDER (6 Maart 1752) at Zee Straat [present-day Strand Street in Cape Town]

“1 cooper bobotijkeetel”

1802:

oud President van ‘t E:E: Collegie van Burgerraaden deezer plaatze mitsgaders oud lidt van den Edelen Achtbaaren Raade van Justitie deezes Gouvernements Hendrik Justinus DE WET en Margaretha Jacoba SMUTS (9 Junij 1802) op de Heere Gragt [Adderley Street] op de hoek van de Casteels Straat in ‘t Blok C

“zesthien witte aarde bobotie bekertjes, twee en twintig witte aarde bobotie bekertjes & twaalf bobotie kopjes in zoort”

1804:

Jacob Pieter DE NEYS opperkoopman en honorair lidt in den Raade van Politie, mitsgaders pro interim fiscaal deezes gouvernements en Johanna Catharina CRUIJWAGEN (29 Augustus 1804) op de Keyzersgragt [St George’s Mall (formerly St George’s Street) – also previously known as Venus Laan] in ’t Blok R

“zes en twintig blaauw porcelain bobotie potjes”

1816:

Catharina Maria BLANCKENBERG weduwe den weledelen heer Christoffel BRAND (28 October 1816) op de hoek van de Heeren Gragt [Adderley Street] en Langemarkt Straat, en aldaar No: 24

“een yzere boboti pan”

1817:

Elzabe Anthoinetta Jacoba LA FEBRE wed:e Michiel Coenraad GIE (1 Augustus 1817) resident in ’t Blok K:K

“drie en dertig bobotie potjes”

1825:

Frans Rynhard BRESLER late member of the worshipful the Court of Justice & Maria Elizabeth BRINK formerly widow to Mr Jacobus Christoffel DE WIT (5 April 1825) resident at Gravestreet N:o 14

“sixteen boboty cups”

1827:

Frederik Johannis LIEBENBERG en weduwe Anna Sophia JOOSTE (3 May1827) in Kerkestraat

“8 bobote bekertjes”

NOTE ON THE ORIGINS OF BOBOTIE

Bobotie is the ‘Shepherd’s Pie’ of South Africa’ & is arguably, for all intents & purposes, one of the … if not THE … ‘national dish’ of South Africa.

Every self-respecting mamma has her own recipe or variation of this dish that becomes adopted … is adapted … originates …. at the ‘The Cape’ … the VOC (Dutch East India Company) colonized Cape of Good Hope (1652-1806).

The Cape is ruled from Batavia [Jakarta on Java in Indonesia] & many slaves, convicts & political exiles … culturally ‘Indo-Chinese’ … are brought to the Cape from the Indonesian, Malaysian & the Philippine archipelagos as well as the Indian sub-continent & Ceylon [Sri Lanka] together with exiled Babba / Nonya Chinese convicts.

The Babba / Nonya cultures in Indonesia, Malaysia & the Philippines – a good many 100s of years of Chinese settlement in South-East Asia – contribute significantly to the cuisine of that part of Asia.

Descendants of these slaves / exiles morph into what becomes the respective Afrikaans-speaking so-called ‘Cape Coloured’, ‘Cape Malay’ & ‘Afrikaner’ communities.

Many British-South Africans, too, descend, through inter-breeding, from some of these slave women who effectively in a colony of initially few European women spawn these various interlarding / inter-related communities.

The etymology of the word ‘bobotie’ is not certain – but that it is a corruption of either the Bahasa (the language native to Indonesia, Malaysia & Tagalog in The Philippines) word ‘bobotok’ (the plural for ‘botok’) &/or ‘boeboe’ (meaning ‘spicy’) seems to be the most plausible.

In a country where meat has always been plentiful, bobotie, was traditionally initially made from left-over lamb or mutton … after the best bits had been consumed … that was curried for eating later.

[Mansell Upham]

ceramic container … so-called ‘ginger jar’ but used also for pickles & spices …

Bobotie – ready to serve

The analogous Chawanmushi – Japanese egg custard – note also the separate serving dish for such a relish

Reference:

Quoted from: https://www.facebook.com/498668566816559/posts/2490388150977914/

Counting Nitrogen Atoms – Part 3: Understanding of Protein Metabolism Coming of Age

Counting Nitrogen Atoms – The History of Determining Total Meat Content
Part 3: Understanding of Protein Metabolism Coming of Age
By Eben van Tonder
11 November 2018

Previous Installments in Counting Nitrogen Atoms

Part 1:  From the start of the Chemical Revolution to Boussingault

Part 2:  Von Liebig and Gerard Mulder’s theory of proteins

protein sources

Introduction

The overview of the history of nitrogen as the basis for meat content and nutrition was initiated by interaction between myself and a friend managing one of the largest bacon production lines in Australia.  What exactly is the legislation in New Zealand and Australia related to this?  I asked the help of the imminent meat scientist from South Africa, Dr. Francois Mellette.  The Australia New Zealand Food Standards Code – Standard 2.2.1 – Meat and meat products, states in par 2.2.1-5 with the heading
Requirements for food sold as dried meat or cured and/or dried meat flesh in whole cuts or pieces, manufactured meat or processed meat“, the following:

(2) A food that is sold as cured and/or dried meat flesh in whole cuts or pieces must contain not less than 160 g/kg of meat protein on a fat-free basis.

Dr Mellette commented that “what this means is that When 80/20 pork is used for bacon, then the 80 has to contain 16% protein. This is just about as much as what it will contain with zero yield. 70/30 has to have a negative yield to achieve this. 90/10 can have approximately a 10% yield to achieve 16% protein in the final product.  To meet 16% protein in the fat-free product, the final total yield can be over 20% addition.”  He did a theoretical calculation with a few assumptions which can be downloaded from this link Australian Bacon 16 Percent Prot in Fat-Free.

I include these practical examples of the application of the work at the beginning of each chapter to interact with the consequences of these historical discoveries as we work our way through history.

Before we commence, let’s again plot where we are and where we are going.  We are tracing the development of the scientific understanding of protein metabolism and nutrition, framing the background information to the determination of real meat content and its relationship to nitrogen content.  In my own articles, I follow a chapter on the history of the origin and growth of our present concepts of protein metabolism by Hunro, from the biochemistry department at the University of Glasgow, Scotland, published in 1964 in a book he did with Allison, entitled Mammalian Protein Metabolism. On the subject of the history of our current understanding of nutrition and its relationship to nitrogen content in food, I used as basis an excellent set of articles, done by Carpenter in 2003,  “A Short History of Nutritional Science” from The Journal of Nutrition, Volume 133, Issue 3.

Despite the fact that the development of thought on the two subjects are intertwined, I conclude the historical thread on protein metabolism, do a 4th article on the developments in the field of nutrition and pull it all together for the meat scientists in chapter 6 where we look at the development of the specific thoughts on defining total meat content and its relationship to nitrogen. I add two interesting sections at the end for those who want to know more.

Summary

Having ended the last article by looking at the volcanic nature of the contributions of Justus von Liebig, subsequent years were spent by science still within his gravitational pull.  We now focus exclusively on the development of our understanding of protein metabolism.  Protein metabolism deals with the various biochemical processes responsible for the synthesis of proteins and amino acids.  When we consume proteins, they are broken down in our gastrointestinal tract into individual amino acids by various enzymes and hydrochloric acid.  They are further broken down into α-keto acids which are recycled in the body to generate energy, produce glucose or fat or to form other amino acids, used to build new proteins in the body.  In reviewing this, we will gain a greater understanding of the role of nitrogen in our metabolic processes and the relatively constant nature of nitrogen in the animal body and its various proteins.  This will help us to make sense of the various methods used to determine total meat content.

In particular, we will encounter the contribution of the following scientists and broadening of the following concepts in this article.

Carl Voit (1831 – 1908)  A former pupil of Liebig during the Munich period set out to improve on the methods of measuring nitrogen output in the urine and published extensively on the subject with Bischoff.  After improving on the measurement techniques he was able to demonstrate nitrogen balance determined from intake in the diet and output in the urine and faeces. He, therefore, showed conclusively the fact that, in long-term experiments on healthy experimental subjects, nitrogen intake and output were equal, giving a state of nitrogen equilibrium.

Lyon Playfair (1818-1898).  Professor of chemistry at Edinburgh, this formidable scientist transformed the industrial and educational landscape of the United Kingdom in his time.  He conducted the first scientific studies on the diets of different classes of the population which he reported on in 1853 and in 1865. Playfair arrived at the conclusion that the diet of the average healthy adult should contain 119 gm protein, 51 gm fat and 530 gm carbohydrate.  He states “the opus mechanicum or external dynamical work done by the body of a hard-working labourer, is to be sought in the 3.5 ounces (99.2 grams) of flesh-formers which remain after deducting the amount required for opus vitale from the total plastic food.” Here we can recognize for the first time a subdivision of protein requirements into “wear-and-tear” and other factors.

–  Gelatin and the recognition of the different nutritional value of different proteins.  The Commission de la Gélatine (1841), of which Magendie was a member, reported unfavourably on the nutritive qualities of Gelatin. In 1860, Bischoff and Voit reported that nitrogen equilibrium could not be attained by dogs fed on gelatin as the sole dietary protein. It was discovered that certain amino acids are directly related to nutrition and in 1938, Rose set out a list of amino acids that are essential and nonessential, not only for the rat but also eventually for man. The use of biological methods for the study of differences in protein quality was placed on a firm footing by Karl Thomas.  In 1909, he published the now classical procedure for measuring biological values of proteins by nitrogen balance determinations. This method was used later by Mitchell (1924); from his laboratory since 1924 numerous contributions have demonstrated the precision of this tool in evaluating protein quality. In 1946, Block and Mitchell compared results obtained by this and other biological tests of protein quality with the amino acid composition of the individual proteins, as determined by chemical analysis. They were able to show convincingly that the essential amino acid content of a protein, which they expressed as a “chemical score,” provides a satisfactory indication of the biological value of that protein for man and the rat.

–  The end of the theory of Liebig that the nonnitrogenous constituents of the diet were the sources of body heat, while dietary protein passed directly into the form of blood protein and tissue protein and the latter was the source of muscular energy.  In consequence, the amount of urea excreted was taken to be a measure of the intensity of muscular activity.  Pettenkofer and Voit (1866) showed that exercise was not associated with a significant increase in urea output. At this time, too, Fick and Wislicenus (1865) performed their historic climb in which they ascended on August 30, 1865, to the top of the Faul horn, on which there was a hotel, and there they made a preliminary examination of their urines, completing the analysis on their return to Zürich. During the ascent, they consumed a diet low in nitrogen, and the urinary analysis showed clearly that the output of nitrogen in the urine corresponded to a breakdown of tissue protein quite insufficient to account for the energy used in their climb of some 6000 feet. These and many other experiments of a less heroic nature demonstrated that protein was not the exclusive fuel for muscle work. We also look at the development and progression of Voit own view of protein metabolism.

– During the second half of the nineteenth century, the breakdown of food protein in the alimentary tract was established and investigations were carried out to determine the form in which the products were absorbed into the body and we look at the emergence of the theory that peptides, rather than amino acids are the normal currency of protein metabolism.

Bollman et al. demonstrated in 1924 that complete removal of the liver results in immediate and total suppression of urea synthesis. This was followed in 1932 by the brilliant studies of Krebs and Henseleit which led to the formulation of the arginine-ornithine cycle as the mechanism of urea synthesis.

– We consider the synthesis of protein within the body.

The Development of Nitrogen Balance as a Technique for the Study of Protein Metabolism:  The Era of Carl Voit

“The idea of balance studies equating income with outgo appears to have been first conceived by Boussingault who took up farming in Alsace after having practised as an engineer in South America. He was interested in the utilization of foodstuffs by his farm animals, and in 1839 he published the results of studies on milk cows in which the total intake of carbon, hydrogen, oxygen, and nitrogen was compared with the total output of these in the urine, faeces, and milk. Boussingault (1844) provides more extensive data of this kind in his book, “Economie rurale.” In the case of nitrogen balance, Boussingault observed a small proportion of the intake which could not be accounted for by excretion in the urine, faeces, and milk, and he assumed that this nitrogen must have been lost via the lungs. In this respect, he was following the opinion current at that time. This was based on the experiments of Despretz and Dulong, each of whom had found evidence of excretion of body nitrogen by way of the lungs, in contradiction to the earlier studies of Lavoisier (Lusk, 1922). The ridiculous nature of their data was exposed by Liebig, who pointed out that, if one of the dogs studied by Dulong had, in fact, expired from its tissues the amount of gaseous nitrogen reported, it would in 7 days have eliminated all the nitrogen contained in its carcass, leaving only a mass of mineral ash (Lusk, 1922). Nevertheless, this view continued to hold sway for some considerable time, since it was also concluded by Regnault and Reiset in 1849, in their famous study on the respiration of animals, that the well-nourished animal expires a small quantity of body nitrogen.” (Munro and Allison, 1964)

“The concept of the balance of income and outgo was rapidly adopted and in 1897 Atwater and Langworthy were able to publish a compilation of over 3,600 such experiments which had been published in the literature, most of them dealing with nitrogen. In his book on “Animal Chemistry,” Liebig reports a large-scale study of carbon balance on a company of soldiers of the bodyguard of the Grand Duke of Hesse-Darmstadt over a period of a month; nitrogen was not included in the analyses. More extensive use of the balance experiment was, however, made by Bidder and Schmidt, who worked in the German University in Dorpat, Estonia, and in 1852 published their joint book “Die Verdauungssäfte und der Stoffwechsel.” Schmidt (who had been a pupil of Liebig’s) wrote the section on metabolism. He attempted to compute the total metabolism of animals, combining the results of respiratory gas analysis with data obtained from analysis of urine and faeces. This allowed Schmidt to study the fate of both the nitrogen and the carbon of dietary protein and from his findings he was able to draw the following striking conclusion (p. 386): “Wom Gruppen verbande des Eiweisses und Collagens spaltet sich fast sämmtlicher Stick stoff mitseinem Bildung des Atomcomplexes Harnstoff erforderlichen C-, H— and O—Aequivalent ab, während der Rest, circa 5/6 der Gesammt menge warmebildenden Materials betragend, der Oxydation zu Kohlen säure und Wasser anheimfällt und nach Erfüllung seiner calorimetrischen Functionen im Lungengaswechsel ausgeschieden wird.” (In the group of proteins and collagen, almost all nitrogen decomposes with the formation of the atomic complex urea necessary C, H, and O equivalent, while the remainder, about 5/6 of the total amount of thermoforming material, oxidizes the oxidation to carbonic acid and water is lost and excreted after fulfilment of its calorimetric functions in the lung gas exchange).” (Munro and Allison, 1964)

“It was, however, in the hands of Carl Voit (1831–1908) that nitrogen balance became a precise tool for the study of protein metabolism. Voit had been a pupil of Liebig during his Munich period. After graduating in medicine at Munich in 1854 he attended classes in science, including the class in chemistry given by Liebig; the instructor in practical chemistry was Pettenkofer, with whom Voit undertook a short study of urea production in patients suffering from cholera (Lusk, 1922). After this period, he spent a year at Göttingen with Wöhler, the organic chemist who had demonstrated a chemical synthesis of urea and who had collaborated with Liebig (Partington, 1951). Voit then returned to Munich to work with Bischoff. Bischoff (1853) had recently published a book with the title “Der Harn stoff als Maass des Stoffwechsels,” (Urea as a measure of metabolism) which was a defence of Liebig’s concept that the amount of urea excreted represented the intensity of tissue break down. Voit applied himself to the improvement of methods of measuring nitrogen output in the urine and, in 1860, he published with Bischoff a book setting down the findings of metabolic experiments using these improved procedures. They describe how dogs were fed with increasing quantities of meat. When the intake was less than 1500 gm of meat, the nitrogen output in the urine and faeces exceeded the intake of nitrogen in the meat: there was a loss of nitrogen from the body. When 1800gm of meat were given, output and intake of nitrogen were equal, and with 2000 or 2500 gm of meat per day, a small retention of nitrogen took place. Bischoff and Voit also explored the effect on urea output of feeding carbohydrate and fat along with the meat. More extensive studies of the protein-sparing actions of carbohydrate and fat were later carried out by Voit (1869).” (Munro and Allison, 1964)

“The studies of Bischoff and Voit led naturally on to Voit’s concept of nitrogen balance determined from intake in the diet and output in the urine and faeces, and these established the fact that, in long-term experiments on healthy experimental subjects, nitrogen intake and output were equal, giving a state of nitrogen equilibrium. For example, Voit (1866a) found that, after a dog had been consuming meat for 58 days, it had ingested 986 gm of nitrogen, and that the nitrogen of the excreta amounted to 983 gm. From this, it was concluded that other sources of nitrogen loss must be negligible. This thesis was discussed in greater detail by Voit in 1881 when he contributed a section on metabolism and nutrition to Hermann’s “Handbuch der Physiologie” (Manual of Physiology). Evidence obtained since the time of Voit has been summarized in 1928 by Lusk, who concludes “the view that the nitrogen of the urine and faeces could be made a measure for the determination of protein metabolism was thus securely established.” This view has occasionally been challenged (e.g., by Costa, 1960). The use of compounds labelled with heavy nitrogen may finally resolve these doubts.” (Munro and Allison, 1964)

“The use of nitrogen balance in the investigation of protein metabolism was exploited by Voit and his many pupils, who came from an international setting. Among these were Rubner (Germany), Atwater and Lusk (United States), and Cathcart (Britain). With this phase in the history of protein metabolism, we move into modern times, and it is convenient to consider separately the studies made by Voit and his successors in each branch of protein metabolism—on the one hand, nutritional developments; on the other hand, intermediary metabolism of protein. Since both of these are immense topics . . .  only the merest sketch of their recent history will be given, in order to demonstrate the continuity from the time of Voit. . . .  An account of experiments on intermediary metabolism from the time of Voit up to 1921 can be found in the monograph on protein metabolism by Cathcart (1921). Brief mention will finally be made to extension of the study of protein metabolism to disease.” (Munro and Allison, 1964)

The Nutritional Studies of Voit and His Successors: Protein Requirements

“The first scientific studies on the diets of different classes of the population were reported in 1853 and in 1865 by Playfair, who was professor of chemistry at Edinburgh and had been a pupil of Ludwig, the German physiologist. Playfair accepted the doctrine of Liebig that mechanical work was the result of protein breakdown in muscle and his very extensive surveys of dietary intakes among different classes of the population supported him in his supposition that heavy workers eat more protein. He, therefore, set down protein requirements which range from 57 gm in the case of a mere subsistence diet to 184 gm in the case of hard-worked laborers (Playfair, 1865). He states “the opus mechanicum or external dynamical work done by the body of a hard-working labourer, is to be sought in the 3.5 ounces (99.2 grams) of flesh-formers which remain after deducting the amount required for opus vitale from the total plastic food.” Here we can recognize for the first time a subdivision of protein requirements into “wear-and-tear” and other factors, a theme which will recur when the concepts of later investigators in this field are considered.” (Munro and Allison, 1964)

“Playfair arrived at the conclusion that the diet of the average healthy adult should contain 119 gm protein, 51 gm fat and 530 gm carbohydrate. Other estimates made around this time were of similar magnitude, and in 1881 Voit summarized the results of his own researches and of his predecessors and concluded that the protein intake of the average working man should provide 118 gm of protein, as well as 56 gm of fat and 500gm of carbohydrate. For heavy workers, higher intakes of protein were considered necessary. Atwater (1894), a pupil of Voit, supported these figures by surveys of dietaries consumed in the United States. There were, however, other opinions. In 1901, Sivén claimed that a low protein intake (about 30 gm) was adequate to maintain nitrogen equilibrium. This view was supported by the much more extensive experiments of Chittenden (1905), whose interest in the subject grew out of his personal experience of taking a low-protein diet as a treatment for rheumatism (Lusk, 1928). He extended the use of low-protein diets to other subjects, including groups of soldiers, professional men, and athletes. The experiments extended over several months and in consequence of the results obtained, Chittenden (1905) claimed that a protein intake of not more than 50–55 gm daily was sufficient and even desirable for health and vigor. He gained support from the Danish investigator Hindhede (1913), but received much criticism from scientists who had observed lowered resistance to disease on low-protein diets (Cathcart, 1921). The question of recommendations about protein intake has now passed out of the hands of individuals and has become the business of committees of national or international status.” (Munro and Allison, 1964)

The Nutritional Studies of Voit and His Successors:  Recognition of Differences in Protein Quality

“The earlier estimates of requirements did not acknowledge differences in the biological values of different dietary proteins, though these were known to exist in one case: from the earliest studies on dietary protein, it has been recognized that gelatin is not a nutritionally satisfactory protein. The Commission de la Gélatine (1841), of which Magendie was a member, reported unfavourably on its nutritive qualities. In 1840, Liebig had written in “Animal Chemistry” that “animals which were fed exclusively with gelatine, the most highly nitrogenised element of the food of carnivora, died with the symptoms of starvation; in short, the gelatinous tissues are incapable of conversion into blood.” In 1860, Bischoff and Voit reported that nitrogen equilibrium could not be attained by dogs fed on gelatin as the sole dietary protein. However, gelatin remained unique during the rest of the nineteenth century as an isolated example of a food protein whose nutritive qualities were demonstrably inadequate.” (Munro and Allison, 1964)

“The recognition of amino acids as structural components of proteins opened the way for new concepts of the nutritive values of the proteins. Although individual amino acids had been observed as products of the acid hydrolysis of proteins as early as 1820 (Braconnot, 1820), it was not until 1900 that a partial quantitative analysis of individual isolated proteins for amino acid content was made possible by the method of Kossel and Kutcher (1900), who observed wide divergences between different proteins in their content of individual amino acids. The possibility that gelatin owed its lack of nutritive qualities to deficiency of some of these amino acids was tested by Kauffmann (1905), who demonstrated that he could maintain himself in nitrogen equilibrium if he added tyrosine, cystine, and tryptophan to a diet in which the remaining nitrogen was provided by gelatin; this fell short of a convincing demonstration since a similar type of experiment yielded negative results in the hands of Rona and Müller (1906). The establishment of a link between defects in the nutritive value of a protein and its amino acid composition was first firmly established in 1906 by Willcock and Hopkins, who found that “. . . a dietary containing zein as its only nitrogenous source is unable to maintain growth of young mice. The addition of tryptophan (an amino acid absent from the decomposition products of zein) to such a dietary does not make it capable of maintaining growth. On the other hand, this addition greatly prolongs the survival of animals fed upon zein, and materially adds to the well-being of such animals. The maintaining growth. On the other hand, this addition greatly prolongs the survival of animals fed upon zein, and materially adds to the well-being of such animals. The addition of tyrosine (which is already present in zein), in equivalent amounts, has no such effect. It is suggested that the tryptophane is directly utilized as the normal precursor of some specific hormone or other substance essential to the processes of the body.”” (Munro and Allison, 1964)

“This work was confirmed and extended by Osborne and Mendel (1914), the latter a pupil of Chittenden. They found that addition of lysine, as well as tryptophan to zein, converted it into a protein capable of sustaining the growth of young animals. The later extensive studies of this group demonstrated that some at least of the amino acids are indispensable constituents of the diet. However, the number of proteins completely deficient in one or more amino acids is limited, and an exploration of the essential amino acids was attempted by chemical deletion of single amino acids from protein hydrolysates. This technique also had considerable limitations, and the definitive solution to the problem had to wait until the 1930’s when Rose, a pupil of Mendel, carried out his painstaking work with diets in which protein was completely replaced by mixtures of purified amino acids. This culminated in the classification (Rose, 1938) of amino acids as essential and nonessential, not only for the rat but also eventually for man. The use of biological methods for the study of differences in protein quality was placed on a firm footing by Karl Thomas, who had studied in Rubner’s laboratory. In 1909, he published the now classical procedure for measuring biological values of proteins by nitrogen balance determinations. This method was used later by Mitchell (1924); from his laboratory since 1924 numerous contributions have demonstrated the precision of this tool in evaluating protein quality. In 1946, Block and Mitchell compared results obtained by this and other biological tests of protein quality with the amino acid composition of the individual proteins, as determined by chemical analysis. They were able to show convincingly that the essential amino acid content of a protein, which they expressed as a “chemical score,” provides a satisfactory indication of the biological value of that protein for man and the rat. With the assurance that the nutritive value of a protein is a function of its content of essential amino acids, and with estimates by Rose and other workers of the essential amino acid requirements of man, we are now, in the second half of the twentieth century, well situated to proceed to a rational determination of the requirements of the body for protein in relation to different types of dietary sources.”  (Munro and Allison, 1964)

Studies on the Metabolism of Nitrogenous Materials since the Time of Voit: General Theories of Protein Metabolism

“At the time when Voit entered the field of protein metabolism, the current view was that of Liebig, who held that the nonnitrogenous constituents of the diet were the sources of body heat, while dietary protein passed directly into the form of blood protein and tissue protein and the latter was the source of muscular energy. In consequence, the amount of urea excreted was taken to be a measure of the intensity of muscular activity. At first, Voit accepted this view (Bischoff and Voit, 1860), but soon Pettenkofer and Voit (1866) carried out experiments which showed that exercise was not associated with a significant increase in urea output. At this time, too, Fick and Wislicenus (1865) performed their historic climb in which they ascended on August 30, 1865, to the top of the Faul horn, on which there was a hotel, and there they made a preliminary examination of their urines, completing the analysis on their return to Zürich. During the ascent, they consumed a diet low in nitrogen, and the urinary analysis showed clearly that the output of nitrogen in the urine corresponded to a breakdown of tissue protein quite insufficient to account for the energy used in their climb of some 6000 feet. These and many other experiments of a less heroic nature demonstrated that protein was not the exclusive fuel for muscle work. The subsidiary question of whether protein metabolism is affected in any way by muscular exertion remained a battle-ground for many years. Cathcart, in reviewing the evidence in 1925, came to the conclusion that a small increment in nitrogen excretion is a necessary concomitant of exercise, but this remains debatable.” (Munro and Allison, 1964)

“Following the disproof of Liebig’s hypothesis of protein metabolism, Voit advanced his own view of protein metabolism. Voit (1866b) had observed with dogs that the output of nitrogen during the first few days of a fast varied directly with the amount of protein given in the preceding diet. This suggested to him that a labile store of protein was being lost from the body during a period of fasting. He then performed a series of experiments on dogs brought into nitrogen equilibrium at different levels of protein intake (Voit, 1867). When the protein content of the diet was changed, there was at first a period during which the body either gained or lost nitrogen before it attained equilibrium. Ongoing from a low to a higher protein level, some nitrogen was at first retained; alternatively, on passing from a higher to a lower level of intake, the body at first lost nitrogen. Voit, therefore, postulated that there is a variable pool of labile protein in the body, “circulating” or “storage” protein (“Worrathseiweiss”), which is distinct from tissue protein (“Organseiweiss”). The amount of circulating protein in the body is related to the level of protein in the diet. It is readily catabolized, whereas the tissue protein is resistant. A small amount of the tissue protein is constantly renewed from material drawn from the circulating protein. This theory was accepted and elaborated by several of Voit’s contemporaries, and notably by Rubner (1908), one of Voit’s pupils. The separation of protein metabolism into independent compartments reached its nadir with Folin (1905), who studied the effect of nitrogen-rich and nitrogen-poor diets on urinary composition. Folin observed that a change in protein intake affected the output of some urinary components but not of others, and he described “laws governing the chemical composition of urine.” Thus, a reduction in protein intake causes a large reduction in output of urea and inorganic sulfate, but little or no change in output of creatinine, neutral sulfur and only slight changes in excretion of uric acid and ethereal sulfates. He concludes:

“… To explain such changes in the composition of the urine on the basis of protein katabolism, we are forced, it seems to me, to assume that katabolism is not all of one kind. There must be at least two kinds. Moreover, from the nature of the changes in the distribution in the urinary constituents, it can be affirmed, I think, that the two forms of protein katabolism are essentially independent and quite different. One kind is extremely variable in quantity, the other tends to remain constant. The one kind yields chiefly urea and inorganic sulphates, no kreatinin, and probably no neutral sulphur. The other, the constant katabolism, is largely represented by kreatinin and neutral sulphur, and to a less extent by uric acid and ethereal sulphates.”

“If there are two distinct forms of protein metabolism represented by two different sets of waste products, it becomes an exceedingly interesting and important problem to determine, if possible, the nature and significance of each. The fact that the kreatinin elimination is not diminished when practically no protein is furnished with the food, and that the elimination of some of the other constituents is only a little reduced under such conditions, shows why a certain amount of protein must be furnished with the food if nitrogen equilibrium is to be maintained. It is clear that the end-products which tend to be constant in quantity appear to be indispensable for the continuation of life; or, to be more definite, those metabolic processes probably constitute an essential part of the activity which distinguishes living cells from dead ones. I would, therefore, call the protein metabolism which tends to be constant, tissue metabolism or endogenous metabolism, and the other, the variable protein metabolism, I would call the exogenous or intermediate metabolism.”” (Munro and Allison, 1964)

“This separation of protein metabolism into endogenous and exogenous parts was widely accepted, in some cases with the addition of further variations in the theory to allow for certain observations. A very full history of this era is given in Mitchell and Hamilton’s (1929) book “The Biochemistry of the Amino Acids.” (Munro and Allison, 1964)

“In 1935, the Folin theory was seriously challenged by Borsook and Keighley, on the basis of studies on nitrogen and sulfur excretion under various conditions; they concluded that a large part of the daily nitrogen intake is immediately synthesized into a labile pool of body protein, which they designate the “continuing metabolism” of protein. They state: “The continuing metabolism in the normal dietary state in man is quantitatively more important than the endogenous metabolism postulated by Folin. If the metabolism which leads to the urinary creatinine be excluded it is an open question whether the remainder of the endogenous metabolism yielding urea, ammonia, and part or possibly all the uric acid has any physiological reality,” and they propose “much more extensive synthetic processes continually in operation.” Folin’s theory of separate endogenous and exogenous metabolisms was finally discredited as an accurate interpretation of the facts by the isotopic studies of Schoenheimer (1898–1941) who had studied biochemistry under Karl Thomas in Leipzig. The use of isotopes in the study of biological reactions had previously been introduced in 1923 by Hevesy, who employed a natural radioactive isotope of lead (radium D) to study lead metabolism in plants. The extensive application of stable isotopes to the solution of problems in the metabolism of organic molecules was initiated by Schoenheimer and his colleagues in the 1930s and the results are summarized in Schoenheimer’s (1942) posthumous book “The Dynamic State of Body Constituents.” In this book, Schoenheimer describes experiments with amino acids, labeled with N15, which were fed to rats for 3 days along with an adequate protein intake.

“… According to the concept of independent exogenous and endogenous types of metabolism, most of the dietary nitrogen should have appeared directly in the urine. This was not the case. With leucine less than one-third, with glycine less than one half was excreted; the balance remained in the body. Of the isotopic nitrogen retained, the non-protein nitrogen fraction contained only a small amount. The protein must, therefore, have been involved in very rapid chemical reactions resulting in the fixation of at least half of the nitrogen of the added amino acids. As the weight of the animals had remained constant, the processes in question must have been so balanced as to avoid ultimate change in the amounts of the proteins.” . . . “Different organs are not equally effective in the fixation of dietary nitrogen. The isotope concentration in the protein nitrogen of the various organs indicates the relative activity of the respective proteins in regard to the acceptance of dietary protein nitrogen. The proteins of the internal organs, of serum, and of the intestinal tract are the most active; the proteins of muscles show less activity. . . . As might be expected, the proteins of the skin show least activity.”

“These sentences are reminiscent of the concept of the instability of tissue components put forward by Magendie in 1829 on the basis of the evidence then available, and previously quoted; some of his words are worth recalling here to show their similarity to Schoenheimer’s: “All parts of the body of man experience an intestine movement which has the double effect of expelling the molecules that can or ought no longer to compose the organs, and replacing them by new molecules. This internal, intimate motion, constitutes nutrition. Nutrition is more or less rapid according to the tissues.” Schoenheimer’s book was a seminal work which announced the new tool of isotopically labeled compounds in metabolic researches, prominent among which was renewed assault on the problem of protein biosynthesis. Schoenheimer’s findings have disposed of Folin’s concept of distinct endogenous and exogenous compartments of protein metabolism. They do not, however, exclude the occurrence of a pool of “storage” or “circulating” protein such as Woit, Rubner, and Borsook and Keighley had envisaged. A pool of “storage” protein which varies with the level of protein in the diet remains for many a convenient concept in the interpretation of experiments on protein metabolism in the whole animal (e.g., Whipple, 1948). The reality of protein stores is a subject which will be considered later in this book.” (Munro and Allison, 1964)

Studies on the Metabolism of Nitrogenous Materials since the Time of Voit: Intermediate Steps in Protein Metabolism

“The role of digestion in protein utilization was unknown to Liebig, who considered that the food proteins were merely solubilized in digestion in order to be used for blood and tissue protein formation (Liebig, 1842, p. 109). During the second half of the nineteenth century, the breakdown of food protein in the alimentary tract was established and investigations were carried out to determine the form in which the products were absorbed into the body. Thus, in 1867 the action of trypsin was studied by Kühne who had been a pupil of Wöhler and with whom Chittenden later worked. The history of this era has been well described by Cathcart (1921) in his monograph on protein metabolism. It culminated in the general conclusion that the absorbed product took the form of free amino acids. This view was particularly suggested by the demonstration by Van Slyke and Meyer (1912) that the concentration of free amino acids in the blood rises after a meal of protein. Nevertheless, as recently as 1954, it was possible for Fisher in his book of protein metabolism to conclude that “evidence for the chemical form of the products of protein absorption is unreliable” and to suggest “that there is enough evidence to consider seriously the possibility that peptides rather than amino acids are the normal currency of protein metabolism.”” (Munro and Allison, 1964)

“As early as 1823, Prévost and Dumas, having disproved the origin of urea from the kidney, had suggested that it was synthesized in the liver and in 1882 Schroeder showed that urea was formed on perfusing the liver with ammonium salts. Nevertheless, exclusive synthesis of urea in the liver remained a battleground for many years (Cathcart, 1921; Mitchell and Hamilton, 1929) until a satisfactory procedure for total hepatectomy was devised. With this tool, Bollman et al. demonstrated in 1924 that complete removal of the liver results in immediate and total suppression of urea synthesis. This was followed in 1932 by the brilliant studies of Krebs and Henseleit which led to the formulation of the arginine-ornithine cycle as the mechanism of urea synthesis. The problem of the mechanism by which the amino groups of the amino acids become available for urea synthesis was materially assisted by the discovery in 1937 of the transaminases by Braunstein and Kritzman.” (Munro and Allison, 1964)

“Braunstein and Kritzman. The fate of the carbon skeleton released from amino acids is a problem more properly belonging to general intermediary metabolism than to the metabolism of proteins. The energy yielded by oxidation of protein in the human body was carefully assessed towards the end of the nineteenth century by Rubner (1885) and by Atwater (see Atwater and Bryant 1899), both pupils of Woit. Atwater’s studies, though exhaustively thorough, are rather inaccessible, but a good review of Rubner’s and Atwater’s work has been provided by Morey (1936). The specific dynamic action following ingestion of food, which had been noted by Lavoisier, was the subject of extensive study by Rubner (1902) and by Lusk (1928), but the reason for the considerable release of energy after consuming protein is still a matter of speculation.” (Munro and Allison, 1964)

“Finally, the synthesis of protein within the body has attracted considerable attention. It was noted soon after the first studies on digestion of protein by gastrointestinal enzymes that, under suitable conditions, these enzymes could produce protein-like products, the plasteins, from partially digested proteins (see review by Wasteneys and Borsook, 1930). This gave rise to speculation as to whether protein synthesis in the tissues is due to reversal of proteolysis catalyzed by means of digestive enzymes present in the cells. This view was eventually rejected, since the products formed by reversal of proteolysis are clearly not similar to tissue proteins. Nevertheless, the synthetic functions of the digestive proteolytic enzymes attracted attention again a few years ago, when it was shown that they were capable of transferring amino acids from one peptide to another—“trans peptidation” (Fruton, 1957). In this way, peptides could be extended and might give rise to proteins. However, this theory has never reached the stage of development at which it can account for the specificity of protein synthesis, and has consequently languished.” (Munro and Allison, 1964)

“In the meantime, a development in the biological study of the cell had disclosed a property which was to become a central tenet in a new and more fruitful theory of protein biosynthesis. Caspersson (1941), working in Stockholm with ultraviolet microscopy, and Brachet (1941), working in Brussels with histochemical techniques, had observed that ribonucleic acid varies in abundance in different cells. Independently in 1941, each of these investigators showed that the intracellular concentration of ribonucleic acid in different cells is proportional to the intensity of protein synthesis in each type of cell and they suggested that ribonucleic acid might play a part in protein formation. Ribonucleic acid occurs as a component of the nucleus as well as of the cytoplasm. In his book, Caspersson (1950) describes from ultraviolet absorption studies how chromosomal deoxyribonucleic acid controls the formation of ribonucleic acid in the nucleolus which then directs the formation of cytoplasmic proteins through subcellular particles containing ribonucleic acid. Attempts to verify this view have been the occasion for much work with cell-free systems, and eventually many aspects of Caspersson’s picture of protein formation would appear to have been justified. In this respect, the studies of Zamecnik and Hoagland on the initial steps from the free amino acid pool to the first stages in protein assembly have been particularly fruitful (Hoagland, 1960). The final answer to the problem of protein biosynthesis will embrace many aspects of biology, from genetics to embryological differentiation.” (Munro and Allison, 1964)

Studies on the Metabolism of Nitrogenous Materials since the Time of Voit: The Study of Protein Metabolism in Pathological Conditions

“Mention should also be made of the stimulus given by Voit to the study of protein metabolism under pathological conditions. Work in this field was stimulated by the possibility of making nitrogen balance measure were very thoroughly surveyed by von Noorden in 1907. Later studies are too numerous to consider here. Many of these phenomena are readily explicable on the basis of our knowledge of the control of protein metabolism in the normal subject, but one still preserves its mysterious nature. That is the increased nitrogen output and negative nitrogen balance which follows injury. A number of authors writing during the latter years of the nineteenth century had suggested that trauma was followed by an increased output of urea (e.g., Malcolm, 1893), but it received only sporadic attention until Cuthbertson, a pupil of Cathcart’s, initiated a systematic study of the phenomenon from 1930 onwards. As a result, it became recognized that, following a fracture or other severe injury, there is marked and early loss of nitrogen, sulfur and phosphorus. The importance of this phenomenon was recognized during the Second World War, but the reason for its occurrence is still unsolved.” (Munro and Allison, 1964)

Conclusion

“From this outline of the history lying behind our present concepts of protein metabolism, certain salient features emerge. The most striking of these is the unbroken tradition handed down in continuity from one investigator to the next for a period of 2 centuries. Joseph Black’s discovery of carbon dioxide in 1756 was the first step towards the understanding of oxidation and thus was the foundation of modern chemistry. It opened up the possibility of the existence of a variety of gases in the atmosphere, among which nitrogen was separated in 1772 by Daniel Rutherford.

Family Tree of Protein Metabolism.png

The work of Black was acknowledged as an inspiration by Lavoisier, who carried out the first experiment to determine whether atmospheric nitrogen was exchanged with the nitrogen of the body. Lavoisier’s work with the gaseous elements led to the supplanting of the phlogiston theory by the modern theory of oxidation and through this to the chemical analysis of compounds of biological interest. In particular, in 1810 Gay-Lussac, pupil of Lavoisier’s colleague, Berthollet, devised a system of analysis of organic compounds which allowed the identification of the nitrogen-rich organic compounds we know as the proteins; it will be noted that these analyses were based on procedures in which gases were evolved or were absorbed and thus were direct consequences of the earlier studies on the properties of atmospheric gases. To the laboratory of Gay-Lussac came the young Liebig in 1823, to take back to Germany the new science of organic analysis and apply it to the study of biological materials. In Munich, Liebig had in 1854 as a pupil in his class in chemistry Carl Voit, who was to lay the foundations of modern studies on nitrogen balance. In Voit’s laboratory numerous investigators from Germany and from abroad underwent a period of training—including Rubner, who especially studied the specific dynamic action of proteins; Atwater and Lusk, who continued the study of protein metabolism in America; and Cathcart, who returned to Scotland and was the teacher of Munro who wrote the chapter quoted here.

Lavoisier, Liebig, and Voit were all systematic and industrious. This devotion to their subject not only allowed them to develop a theme, but it also gave them the authority which goes with lengthy experience in a subject. This authority continued to be effective after they had ceased to carry out active experimental work. When Liebig went to Munich in 1852, he had already ceased to perform experiments but was still able to inspire Voit in 1854 to enter the field of protein metabolism. A century before, Joseph Black made his only investigation into the atmospheric gases, but he continued to take an active interest in the development of the new chemistry and in 1772 this led his pupil Daniel Rutherford to the isolation of nitrogen. Magendie on physiology, Liebig on animal chemistry, Voit on protein and nutrition in Hermann’s Handbuch, Rubner on energy exchange, and even in modern times, Schoenheimer on the “Dynamic State of Body Constituents,” had a considerable influence on contemporary scientific thinking.”  (Munro and Allison, 1964)

Want to know more?  Further Study with Kendra Sticka and Zach Murphy

Want to know more?  A Short Current description of Protein Metabolism

From BC Open Textbooks

“Much of the body is made of protein, and these proteins take on a myriad of forms. They represent cell signalling receptors, signaling molecules, structural members, enzymes, intracellular trafficking components, extracellular matrix scaffolds, ion pumps, ion channels, oxygen and CO2 transporters (hemoglobin). That is not even the complete list! There is protein in bones (collagen), muscles, and tendons; the hemoglobin that transports oxygen; and enzymes that catalyze all biochemical reactions. Protein is also used for growth and repair. Amid all these necessary functions, proteins also hold the potential to serve as a metabolic fuel source. Proteins are not stored for later use, so excess proteins must be converted into glucose or triglycerides, and used to supply energy or build energy reserves. Although the body can synthesize proteins from amino acids, food is an important source of those amino acids, especially because humans cannot synthesize all of the 20 amino acids used to build proteins.

The digestion of proteins begins in the stomach. When protein-rich foods enter the stomach, they are greeted by a mixture of the enzyme pepsin and hydrochloric acid (HCl; 0.5 percent). The latter produces an environmental pH of 1.5–3.5 that denatures proteins within food. Pepsin cuts proteins into smaller polypeptides and their constituent amino acids. When the food-gastric juice mixture (chyme) enters the small intestine, the pancreas releases sodium bicarbonate to neutralize the HCl. This helps to protect the lining of the intestine. The small intestine also releases digestive hormones, including secretin and CCK, which stimulate digestive processes to break down the proteins further. Secretin also stimulates the pancreas to release sodium bicarbonate. The pancreas releases most of the digestive enzymes, including the proteases trypsin, chymotrypsin, and elastase, which aid protein digestion. Together, all of these enzymes break complex proteins into smaller individual amino acids (Figure 1), which are then transported across the intestinal mucosa to be used to create new proteins, or to be converted into fats or acetyl CoA and used in the Krebs cycle.

The left panel shows the main organs of the digestive system, and the right panel shows a magnified view of the intestine. Text callouts indicate the different protein digesting enzymes produced in different organs.
Figure 1. Digestive Enzymes and Hormones. Enzymes in the stomach and small intestine break down proteins into amino acids. HCl in the stomach aids in proteolysis, and hormones secreted by intestinal cells direct the digestive processes.

In order to avoid breaking down the proteins that make up the pancreas and small intestine, pancreatic enzymes are released as inactive proenzymes that are only activated in the small intestine. In the pancreas, vesicles store trypsin and chymotrypsin as trypsinogen and chymotrypsinogen. Once released into the small intestine, an enzyme found in the wall of the small intestine, called enterokinase, binds to trypsinogen and converts it into its active form, trypsin. Trypsin then binds to chymotrypsinogen to convert it into the active chymotrypsin. Trypsin and chymotrypsin break down large proteins into smaller peptides, a process called proteolysis. These smaller peptides are catabolized into their constituent amino acids, which are transported across the apical surface of the intestinal mucosa in a process that is mediated by sodium-amino acid transporters. These transporters bind sodium and then bind the amino acid to transport it across the membrane. At the basal surface of the mucosal cells, the sodium and amino acid are released. The sodium can be reused in the transporter, whereas the amino acids are transferred into the bloodstream to be transported to the liver and cells throughout the body for protein synthesis.

Freely available amino acids are used to create proteins. If amino acids exist in excess, the body has no capacity or mechanism for their storage; thus, they are converted into glucose or ketones, or they are decomposed. Amino acid decomposition results in hydrocarbons and nitrogenous waste. However, high concentrations of nitrogen are toxic. The urea cycle processes nitrogen and facilitates its excretion from the body.

Urea Cycle

The urea cycle is a set of biochemical reactions that produces urea from ammonium ions in order to prevent a toxic level of ammonium in the body. It occurs primarily in the liver and, to a lesser extent, in the kidney. Prior to the urea cycle, ammonium ions are produced from the breakdown of amino acids. In these reactions, an amine group, or ammonium ion, from the amino acid is exchanged with a keto group on another molecule. This transamination event creates a molecule that is necessary for the Krebs cycle and an ammonium ion that enters into the urea cycle to be eliminated.

In the urea cycle, ammonium is combined with CO2, resulting in urea and water. The urea is eliminated through the kidneys in the urine (Figure 2).

This image shows the reactions of the urea cycle and the organelles in which they take place.
Figure 2. Urea Cycle. Nitrogen is transaminated, creating ammonia and intermediates of the Krebs cycle. Ammonia is processed in the urea cycle to produce urea that is eliminated through the kidneys.

Amino acids can also be used as a source of energy, especially in times of starvation. Because the processing of amino acids results in the creation of metabolic intermediates, including pyruvate, acetyl CoA, acetoacyl CoA, oxaloacetate, and α-ketoglutarate, amino acids can serve as a source of energy production through the Krebs cycle (Figure 3). Figure 4 summarizes the pathways of catabolism and anabolism for carbohydrates, lipids, and proteins.

This figure shows the different reactions in which products of carbohydrate breakdown are converted into different amino acids.
Figure 3. Energy from Amino Acids. Amino acids can be broken down into precursors for glycolysis or the Krebs cycle. Amino acids (in bold) can enter the cycle through more than one pathway.

Metabolism: Pyruvate Dehydrogenase Complex Deficiency and Phenylketonuria

Pyruvate dehydrogenase complex deficiency (PDCD) and phenylketonuria (PKU) are genetic disorders. Pyruvate dehydrogenase is the enzyme that converts pyruvate into acetyl CoA, the molecule necessary to begin the Krebs cycle to produce ATP. With low levels of the pyruvate dehydrogenase complex (PDC), the rate of cycling through the Krebs cycle is dramatically reduced. This results in a decrease in the total amount of energy that is produced by the cells of the body. PDC deficiency results in a neurodegenerative disease that ranges in severity, depending on the levels of the PDC enzyme. It may cause developmental defects, muscle spasms, and death. Treatments can include diet modification, vitamin supplementation, and gene therapy; however, damage to the central nervous system usually cannot be reversed.

PKU affects about 1 in every 15,000 births in the United States. People afflicted with PKU lack sufficient activity of the enzyme phenylalanine hydroxylase and are therefore unable to break down phenylalanine into tyrosine adequately. Because of this, levels of phenylalanine rise to toxic levels in the body, which results in damage to the central nervous system and brain. Symptoms include delayed neurological development, hyperactivity, mental retardation, seizures, skin rash, tremors, and uncontrolled movements of the arms and legs. Pregnant women with PKU are at a high risk for exposing the fetus to too much phenylalanine, which can cross the placenta and affect fetal development. Babies exposed to excess phenylalanine in utero may present with heart defects, physical and/or mental retardation, and microcephaly. Every infant in the United States and Canada is tested at birth to determine whether PKU is present. The earlier a modified diet is begun, the less severe the symptoms will be. The person must closely follow a strict diet that is low in phenylalanine to avoid symptoms and damage. Phenylalanine is found in high concentrations in artificial sweeteners, including aspartame. Therefore, these sweeteners must be avoided. Some animal products and certain starches are also high in phenylalanine, and intake of these foods should be carefully monitored.


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References:

Ahren, Kevin, PhD was a Professor in the Department of Biochemistry and Biophysics at Oregon State University.  His lectures are available on line at https://www.lecturio.com/medical-courses/history-introduction-to-biochemistry.lecture, on Youtube.  He is a co-author on three popular Open Educational electronic textbooks. They are 1) “Biochemistry Free and Easy,” 2) “Biochemistry Free For All,” and 3) “Kevin and Indira’s Guide to Getting Into Medical School.” Each of these books can be downloaded for free at http://biochem.science.oregonstate.edu/content/biochemistry-free-and-easy.

Australia New Zealand Food Standards Code – Standard 2.2.1 – Meat and meat products

Carpenter, K. J.; A Short History of Nutritional Science: Part 1 (1785–1885), The Journal of Nutrition, Volume 133, Issue 3, 1 March 2003, Pages 638–645, https://doi.org/10.1093/jn/133.3.638

Millett, F.  Private Communication

Munro, H. N., and Allison, J. B..  1964.  Mammalian Protein Metabolism.   Academic Press.

Murphy, Zach: A co-founder of Ninja Nerd Science and is responsible for preparing, drawing and presenting the scientific information. Zach attended Misericordia University where he received his Bachelors of Science degree in Biology and a minor in chemistry.

Sticka, Kendra. Received her Ph.D. in Biochemistry and molecular biology from the University of Alaska, Fairbanks in 2016. She currently is an Assistant Professor at the University of Alaska, Anchorage.

Image Credit:  https://thetruthaboutcancer.com/best-sources-of-protein/

The Freezing and Storage of Meat

The Freezing and Storage of Meat
By: Eben van Tonder
17 December 2018

frozen meat

Introduction

Freezer stock and shelf life are two issues often seen as peripheral in a meat factory, especially in smaller companies that lack the manpower to adequately manage and investigate it. Shelflife of various products are sometimes inherited from predecessors in the factory or is set at what the opposition in the market has it at.  Besides this, clients often prescribe what they want shelf life to be which should be referred back to the NPD manager but often the adjustment is made without scientific rigor.  The NPD process was in such a case actually flawed right from the start.  There may not be an NPD Manager or NPD process in the company, especially in small and mid-size organisations.  Freezer management is likewise many times seen as intuitive – something to be taken lightly since freezing of meat is something we have all been exposed to from childhood.  What is there about freezing that is hard to understand? Sometimes the advice given by consultants to start up companies are just wrong. Sometimes shelf life is in error assigned to finished goods only and goods, stored for later use escape detailed shelflife considerations. All these things make this article very relevant.

Shelf life and freezer stock are in reality closely connected and its management intertwined. The goal of the study is to glean practical points of application from the most recent studies on the subject, incorporating old and time-tested techniques.  The work of freezing and storing of meat products are considered to bring about the desired result of good quality raw material and final products by understanding what happens to meat in a freezer, assigning a correct shelf life to each product class and managing the stock accordingly. In considering it, as always, work is viewed as a metaphysical concept and involves the organization of labour and the design of processes and procedures that will bring about the desired end goal.

Determining Product Shelf Life in Frozen Conditions

The first and most critical question is how long can meat be stored frozen.  What is the shelf life of frozen meat and what factors impact it?  The shelf life of meat can be defined as the time period within which the food is safe to consume and/or has an acceptable quality to consumers.  Frozen storage and distribution of meat now takes front and center stage as one of the key factors in shelf life management of frozen products.

The old saying that freezing arrest decay is not true.  Shelf life of frozen food is not in years, but in months. At best, one year for a limited class of products (which does not include pork). Just like any other food, frozen meat deteriorates during storage.  The activity of most bacteria are arrested in frozen meat, but decay happens through other mechanisms.  (Fu and Labuza)  The first important consideration for managing a freezer is to consider all the products that will be packed in it, environmental factors likely to prevail such as temperature and temperature fluctuations and based on these, to develop an understanding of the shelf life each of the products.

In an excellent chapter on shelf life determination for frozen foods and its mathematical modeling using kinetic modeling techniques, Fu and Labuza review the different models.  In so doing, they touch on many of the key considerations.  Here I systematically and in an overview fashion work through their work. Whether one actually does the mathematical modeling or not will, in the end, be determined by the economic need for such work, but working through the chapter fixes the different aspects that are brought to bear upon the matter firmly in one’s mind with the aid of the rigor of mathematical modelling.

The activity of microorganisms in a freezer is not something to be ignored. Freezer coils have many times been the source of listeria contamination, for example, but it is definitely less of a problem than in the rest of the factory and a good quarterly or annual freezer deep clean should suffice.  Since bacteria is not a factor in the deterioration of frozen foods, it is not primarily a health issue, but rather a quality issue.  If freezer coils contaminated the freezer with microorganisms, this will become a problem during thawing.  Generally, food that has been stored frozen for a long time is safe to consume but develops objectionable characteristics through other mechanisms in its frozen state.

Fu and Labuza lists the main ways that freezer meat deteriorates.  Enzymes are the first big culprit, “which can cause accelerated deterioration reactions in meat and poultry (enzymes released from disrupted membranes during precooking).  In processed meat, cell damage or protein and starch interactions during freezing cause drip and mushiness upon thawing. Discoloration could occur by nonenzymatic browning, bleaching, and freezer burn.  For any specific frozen product, which mode determines its shelf life, depends on the product characteristics (raw materials, ingredients, formulation), pre-freezing treatment, freezing process, packaging film and processes, and of course storage conditions. All of the quality deterioration and potential hazards are usually exaggerated or complicated by a fluctuating time-temperature environment (e.g. freeze/thaw cycle) during storage.”

The first point is, therefore, to understand that there is a problem which is far bigger than just the management of micro.  The response to the dilemma of frozen food deterioration is to extend shelf life through ingredient selection, process modification and change of package or storage conditions.

Shelf life deterioration in frozen meats, poultry, and seafood takes place through rancidity, toughening (protein denaturation), discoloration,  desiccation (freezer burn).  In the reference below, I uploaded the chapter in its entirety which I downloaded from Researchgate. I set out to identify some of the process modifications needed to effectively optimise the shelf life of meat stored in a freezer.

Kinetic Modelling

Lets first understand what they are doing before we look at the content if their work. They rely on kinetic modelling which has proved to be particularly effective in food systems. Van Boekel and Tijskens write about kinetic modelling that “changes in foods as a result of processing and storage lead to a change in quality (usually a quality loss)” which is exactly the issue in frozen meat storage. “The processes involved are mainly (bio)chemical and physical reactions. Such changes proceed at a certain rate and with certain kinetics. Kinetic modelling enables us to describe these changes and their rates quantitatively.  With kinetic modelling we also have a powerful tool that can help to unravel basic reaction mechanisms. The understanding of the basic mechanisms is vital for quality modelling and quality control.”

“To understand the progress of reactions, knowledge of thermodynamics and kinetics (the study of reaction rates) is required. Thermodynamics is helpful in describing and understanding in which direction a reaction will proceed and the energy and entropy changes that are involved. Thermodynamics thus explains the driving force for a reaction. However, thermodynamics cannot tell anything about the speed at which a reaction proceeds. This is the domain of kinetics. The rate with which a reaction proceeds is the resultant of the driving force and the resistance against change. There is thus an intimate link between thermodynamics and kinetics.” (Van Boekel and Tijskens). Understanding why they rely on kinetic modelling, we now turn our attention to the detailed models.

Modelling of Quality Deterioration

Frozen food starts to degrade as soon as it is produced.  Freezing does not arrest all decay.  This includes final product and intermediate products like primals, packed for future processing.  “The rate and the degree of degradation depend on both the composition and the environmental conditions during storage and distribution. In general, the loss of food quality or shelf life is evaluated by measuring a characteristic quality index, “A”. The change of quality index A with time (dA/dt) can usually be represented by the following kinetic equation:

– dA/dt = k An

where k is called a rate constant depending on temperature, product and packaging characteristics; n is a power factor called reaction order which defines whether the rate of change is dependent on the amount of A present. If environmental factors are held constant, n also determines the shape of deterioration curve.”

Quality Deterioration Curves.png

Besides the nature of the quality deterioration curves, pay close attention to the relentless slope downwards over time.  As we will see, this time is not very long.

The rate constant k, is determined by the temperature, product and packaging characteristics.  If meat is packed that have been cured, partially or fully heat treated, with various fat contents such as trim from fatty cutter bellies, packed and stored for future use in making products like salami or sausages, compared with lean trim, stored for future use or trading it out; if these are packed in 20kg bags and sealed vs packed in cardboard boxes, lined with a think plastic liner vs vacuum sealed in a vacuum bag, all these different factors will have a material impact on the rate constant, k.

The alternative version of the basic equation is,

f(A) = k t

where f(A) is the quality function, k and t are the same as above.  (Fu and Labuza)

“The form of f(A) depends on the value of n. When n is equal to zero it is called zero-order reaction kinetics, which implies that the rate of loss of quality is constant under constant environmental conditions (curve (a) in the figure above). If n is equal to one it is called first-order reaction kinetics, which results in an exponential decrease in rate of loss as quality decreases (curve (b) in the figure above)”  (Fu and Labuza)

Meat is a complex environment.  Complex chemical reactions continue to take place in frozen meat.  As in all modeling, we have to make simplifications.  “The reaction kinetics can be simplified into either pseudo-zero order or pseudo-first order kinetics. In the case of complex reaction kinetics with respect to reactants, an intermediate or a final product (e.g. peroxides or hexanal in lipid oxidation) could be used as a quality index.”  (Fu and Labuza)  This was made possible recently when I had the opportunity to physically examine different pork meats, with different characteristics, packed in a variety of different ways and stored under diverse environmental conditions.

“There are few cases where neither zero nor first order kinetics applies. Curve (c) in the figure above shows the degradation curve for a 2nd order reaction (with single reactant), which also shows a straight on a semi-log paper. A fractional order should be used to describe the curve (d) in the figure above.  (Fu and Labuza)

The experience of many butchers is that there is no deterioration in meat quality if meat is frozen.  Curve (e) may apply.  It indicates the presence of an induction period or lag time before the quality deterioration begins (e.g. browning pigment formation in the Maillard reaction or a microbial growth lag phase). The length of the lag depends on many factors, but temperature is a predominant factor.  (Fu and Labuza)  The lag phase is induced by temperature which ultimately is overcome by other factors over time and the degradation continues relentlessly.  “Given this, modeling of both the induction or lag period and deterioration phase is necessary for accurate prediction of quality loss or shelf life remaining.” (Fu and Labuza)

A non-kinetic approach

A non-kinetic approach, e.g. a statistical data fitting technique can also be used to describe the deterioration curves. “Varsanyi and Somogyi (1983) found that the change in quality characteristics as a function of time could be approximately described with linear, quadratic and hyperbolic functions and that storage temperature and packing conditions affected the shape of the deterioration curves.”  Fu and Labuza find this method difficult to use for predicting shelf life under variable storage conditions, except the linear curve.  The importance of standardizing packing conditions for different products and to select appropriate storage temperatures becomes clear.

Temperature Dependence

The rate of deterioration is largely temperature dependent.  “The Arrhenius relationship is often used to describe the temperature dependence of deterioration rate.  By studying a deterioration process and measuring the rate of loss at two or three temperatures (higher than storage temperature), one could then extrapolate on an Arrhenius plot with a straight line to predict the deterioration rate at the desired storage temperature.”  (Fu and Labuza)

An exponential relationship exists between shelf life and storage temperatures.  These can be expressed as follow:

q = exp(-bT+c)

or

ln q = -bT+c

where q is shelf life at temperature T in °C, b is the slope of the semilog plot of q vs T and c is the intercept or reference temperature.

These are represented as follows:

shelf life plot.png

Q10

An approach that is similar to the Arrhenius equation, is the Q10 approach.  It is also often used for estimation of the temperature acceleration of shelf life, which is defined as :

Q10 = rate @ T1+10 °C / rate @ T1
Q10 = shelf life @T1 / shelf life @T1+10 °C
Q10 = (q10)1.8

where T1 is temperature in °C. If the temperature unit is in °F, then the term q10 is used, which in fact is more often used than Q10 in the frozen food literature.  The magnitude of Q10 depends on the food system, the temperature, and the absolute range. Q10 values from 2 up to 20 have been found for frozen foods (Labuza, 1982) Labuza and Schmidl, 1985.

Of interest is data from data from July (1989) and Labuza (1982).

estimate of the Q10.png

The chart, as quoted by Fu and Labuza.

HQL represents High-Quality Life, a term suggested by the International Institute of Refrigeration (IIR, 1986).  It is defined as “the storage period through which the initial quality was maintained from the time of freezing up to the point where 70% of the trained test panel members are capable of detecting a noticeable difference between the frozen food stored at different temperatures and the corresponding controls stored at – 40 deg C in a triangular sensory test;  therefore this parameter is also known as just Noticeable Difference  (JND)”  (Evans, 2008)

Note the pork at -20 deg C and HQL at 400 days and at – 10, at 50 days.  This is an astronomical difference brought about by 10 degrees! It forever dispels the notion that freezing is freezing! My estimation is that most factory refrigeration in South Africa runs on average neatly between these two temperatures. Then one still has to consider the actual temperatures for stock stored at the back of the freezers vs stock in the front and closest to the door.

Also, of interest to the meat processing plant is the low HQL days of pork sausage and ground burgers.  These studies can be used when setting preliminary shelf lifetimes while more rigorous work is done for the different products either sold frozen or stored in freezer rooms.

Fluctuating temperatures

Fluctuating temperatures over time can be accommodated in various ways in predictive models.  In discussing different models, Fu and Labuza introduce the following relevant concepts to our discussion.

They state that “a widely fluctuating temperatures may cause freezer burn or in-package desiccation (July 1984).  Ledward and MacFarlane (1971) looked at freezer burn and showed that both lipid oxidation and metmyoglobin formation depends on the treatment of meat prior to and during frozen storage.  Meat subjected to freeze cycles were the least stable and meat frozen quickly was most stable.  Therefore, during prolonged aerobic frozen storage delay in freezing should be avoided as well as thawing and refreezing on the surface.  (James and James, 2000)

Certain chemical reactions, enzymatic as well as nonenzymatic, could even proceed more rapidly at temperatures below freezing. This is called a negative effect of temperature (Singh and Wang, 1977), which could be caused by one or more of the following factors:

(1) a freeze concentration effect;   This effect results from the concentration of solutes in the unfrozen water phase.  A consequence of this is that certain chemical reactions exhibit a rate increase in foods when frozen.  Frelka, et al. used colour as the only quality indicator and their work indicate that the oxidation of myoglobin follows traditional Arrhenius first-order kinetics at temperatures but only at temperatures above freezing. Below the freezing point, an increase in rate was observed with a maximum rate around −15°C. (Frelka, et al, 2015)  In general, freeze concentration causes great stress on protein stability.  “It has even been shown to cause protein unfolding at the ice: aqueous interface and the aggregation of unfolded proteins.”  (Avacta)

Freeze concentration may lead to precipitation.  Zachariah and Satterlee (1973) studied the relationship between frozen storage temperatures and oxidation rate for bovine, ovine and porcine myoglobin.  Measurements were done between – 5 deg C and – 27 deg C. They found that rates were highest between – 11 deg C and – 12 deg C, and lowest below – 18 deg C.  “The autooxidation of porcine myoglobin was faster than ovine or bovine myoglobin.  Porcine myoglobin is precipitated by freezing which leads to the conclusion that the more rapid rate for this protein is due to a combination of autoxidation and precipitation.”  Red colour is, therefore, best preserved at temperatures below – 18 deg C..  (James, S. J., James, B., 2000)   Fennema (1975) has shown that freeze concentration effect can cause rates of chemical reactions to increase dramatically just below the freezing point. (Fu and Labuza)

(2) the catalytic effect of ice crystals;  The groundbreaking work of Buttkus (1967) offers a good case in point for both the concentration effect of freezing and the catalytic effect of ice crystals.  “He demonstrated the interaction of myosin, a structural protein, with malonaldehyde, measuring the extent of the interaction by the number of free ε-amino groups in the protein molecule.”  He evaluated the reaction at a range of different temperatures namely + 20 deg C, 0 deg C and – 20 deg C.  At + 20 deg C, almost 60% of the ε-amino groups of lysine were rendered unavailable after 4 days, 40% having interacted after 8 hours.  The reaction was considerably reduced at 0 deg C.  At – 20 deg C, the reactions at – 20 deg C was about the same as at + 20 deg C.  Grant et al (1966) suggested the results were due to the concentration effect “resulting in a closer association of the molecules in the reaction mixture due to freezing as well as to the result of a catalytic effect in which the ice crystals were thought to participate.  “Further work by Buttkus (1967) demonstrated that storing a mixture of malonaldehyde and myosin at – 20 deg C for 6 days resulted in the participation of other amino acids in addition to lysine. The order of reactivity was found to be methionine, lysine, tyrosine, and arginine. (Eskin, et al, 1971)

(3) a greater mobility of protons in ice than in water;  The imperfect nature of ice explains the mobility of protons in frozen water.  The defects in ice are usually of the orientational (caused by proton dislocation accompanied by neutralizing orientations) or ionic types (caused by proton dislocation with formation of H3O+ and OH-) (Fennema, 1996)  An increase in proton mobility is one of the possible reasons given for the degradation of ascorbic acid at refrigerated temperatures.  (Heldman, D. R., Lund, D. B. (Ed), 2006)

(4) a change in pH, up or down with freezing;  “When freezing begins, grains of crystalline ice begins to grow. The solutes are rejected from the ice and concentrated in the interfacial water layer by assistance of the electrostatic force generated by the freezing potential. At a certain stage of freezing, the water layer is completely confined by the walls of some ice grains. Protons move from the ice phase to the unfrozen solution surrounded by the ice walls to neutralize the electric potential generated, and thus the pH of the unfrozen solution decreases.” (Takenaka, et al, 1996)

(5) a favorable orientation of reactants in the partially frozen state; Atoms must “come together” to form chemical bonds. They must be brought to some position or orientation to form a product.  Freezing favours such orientations for many reactants.  One such example is the oxidation of nitrite by dissolved oxygen to form nitrate.  It is known to be accelerated ca. 10times by the freezing of the aqueous solution (Takenaka, et al, 1996) and have important implications for the frozen storage of cured products such as bacon.

(6) a salting in or out of proteins;  According to John Steemson, a researcher working in a molecular biology lab at the University of Auckland, New Zealand, “charge balance (from ions around the protein) is important for protein stability because a protein uses charged residues (as well as other factors) to fold and stay folded. Heaps of ions in solution can mask charges and eliminate or severely curtail those interactions, potentially exposing internal hydrophobic regions and reducing protein solubility.”

He writes in response to a question that “perhaps, more importantly, water-soluble proteins have concentric “shells” of semi-ordered water molecules arranged around them, in much the same way that dissolved salts have associated water molecules making them soluble. If you add too much salt, the waters in the protein solvation shells are stripped out to dissolve the salt, precipitating the protein out of solution. This is sometimes called “salting out”.  The change in positive and negative ions around the protein change the various interactions which are involved in keeping the protein together and helping it to hold it’s structure.  In other words, freezing can denature proteins through this mechanism.

(7) decrease in dielectric constant;  the dielectric constant (ε) is defined as a measure of a substance’s ability to insulate charges from each other.

and

(8) the development of antioxidants at higher temperatures.

Refreezing

Fluctuating temperatures between different freezers as the product moves from the company holding freezer to the refrigerated truck and into the refrigerator at the client’s premises is one reason for fluctuating temperatures.  Another is poor freezer door discipline if it is not managed mechanically – not closing the freezer door and some freeze-thawing cycles may be planned by defrosting products to use in production and refreezing what has not been used.  The question comes up how detrimental this is to product quality and its impact on shelf life.

Provided that thawing is done in such a way not to contaminate the meat through microbes, refreezing of meat does not significantly negatively impact the meat quality.  The biggest impact that one will notice is the loss of water during thawing.  Any attempts to rehydrate the meat to its original water content will be successful only partially.  Thawed meat is also more susceptible to microbial growth because of ruptures cells and increased surface moisture.  (Herren, 2011)  Despite these common-sense deductions, Baker, R. C. et al (1976) demonstrated some surprising results.  They conducted a study where chicken broilers were subjected to 5 freeze-thaw cycles.  They evaluated the meat at the end of the process for drip during thawing, cooking loss, TBA, shear force, total moisture, bacterial counts, visual appraisal for sliminess and bone discoloration, and taste panel appraisal for tenderness, juiciness, and flavor.

They found that very few characteristics in the broilers were affected by rate of freezing, and number of freezing and thawing cycles.  While more moisture was lost as thaw drip, as a result of freezing, less was lost in cooking for refrozen birds so that the total loss was similar regardless of freezing rate and number of thawings.  They concluded that although repeated thawing and freezing is certainly not recommended procedure, it appears from their study that this process does not does not greatly effects various characteristics (including bacterial counts) of chicken broilers.  (Berry and Leddy,  1989)

The Hazard function

The hazard function h(t) of a distribution is defined for t ³ 0 by:

h(t) = f(t)/[1-F(t)]

where f(t) is a probability density function and F(t) is a cumulative distribution function. The h(t) is the conditional probability of failure at time t, given that failure has not occurred before.

Hazard Function.png
Failure Rate as a function of Time

“Early failure should not be taken as a true failure relative to the shelf life of the product unless it represents the normal condition. From t1 to t2 one can expect, barring chance major temperature fluctuations, no failures. This interval represents the true period of the product’s stability. The failure rate is almost constant and small during this time. The hazard or failure rate increases from time t2 to the termination point t3, owing to the true deteriorative changes occurring within the product. The concept of hazard function is important in the analysis and interpretation of the failure times of a product.”  (Fu and Labuza)

“A fundamental assumption underlying statistical analysis of shelf life testing is that the shelf life distribution of a food product belongs to a family of probability distributions and that observations are statistically independent. Parameters of a shelf life distribution are estimated by use of shelf life testing experimental data. Once the parameters of a shelf life model have been estimated, it can be used to predict the probabilities of various events, such as future failures (Nelson, 1972). Five statistical models, normal, log normal, exponential, Weibull and extreme-value distributions were tested for a few food products (Gacula and Kubala, 1975; Labuza and Schmidl, 1988).”   Fu and Labuza found that the Weibull distribution fits best.  I suggest you download the Fu and Labuza chapter from the references below and study the Weibull approach.

“Fail small – Fail early” philosophy

A philosophy crucial in new product development, product reformulation and in fact, equally applicable to the setting up of a new business is the “fail small, fail early” philosophy.  A proper application of the Stage-Gate approach to NPD is an excellent approach that will enforce this philosophy.

One of the most important aspects of product development or reformulation is shelf life.  The shelf life must at least exceed the minimum distribution time required from the processor to the consumer.  It is a mistake not to see that all raw material received is turned into sellable products at the end of the shift which includes intermediate products to be used the next day in production.  All end products at the end of shift must have a product description, batch number, production date, shelf life and packed in designated packaging.

Take trim for example.  If one views the end goal of the production day as incoming meat = products produced at the end of the shift, one would produce the bacon, hams, and sausages on the production schedule and all leftover trim would be stored in a form, ready to be used the next day for sausage production or transferred to the sausage department as an internal client, at the right temperature to guarantee the one day shelf life required.  Such intermediate products would have their own batch number, a production date and a product description attached to it.   If there was not an immediate need for it (such as is often the case with fat), it should be packed it in the right packaging for long-term storage and labeled with batch codes, production dates, best before dated and proper product description.  It should be frozen as per product specifications and stored accordingly.  This way, a product is created that will either be transferred to production at a future date or traded out to clients.   A First In – First Out system will be applied by the freezer manager and a list of products nearing end-of-shelflife dates will be made available every day for action, either to be used in production or traded out.

During the design of the intermediate or final products, shelf life testing can assess problems that the product has in the development stage and corrections can be made.  This process must be repeated periodically.  Such intermitted shelf life tests help to provide assurance that the product remains consistent over time with respect to quality.

“Different shelf life testing strategies are necessary at different stages, as illustrated in the figure below. If the objective is to identify whether pathogens and spoilage microbes will grow in the case of temperature abuse, then a challenge study is necessary. If the objective is to quickly estimate the approximate shelf life of the product then an ASLT can be used, as long as the proper temperature range is chosen. A confirmatory shelf life test may be conducted at the last stage with simulated distribution chain conditions, although in today’s R & D environment, this may be skipped.”

Shelf life testing strategy at different product development stages
Shelf life testing strategy at different product development stages

The detailed treatment of the different strategies is found in the Fu and Labuza chapter.

Shelflife Feedback Loups

In managing shelf life of products, a feedback loop must exist between the factory manager and the sales/ accounting department.  Such a feedback loop must exist in terms of sales but also in terms of returns.  My experience is that the monthly returns are something that the accounting department deals with and the factory manager is only brought into the discussion when it goes out of hand.  This is, in my opinion, a mistake.  The vital importance is clear to me that the actual shelf life achieved is communicated to the factory manager and his/ her team on a consistent basis through a study of the number of all returns per month.  Only then will the production team be able to develop an ultimate evaluation of the effectiveness of the processes, product designs, packaging, plant hygiene, quality of raw materials and the validity of assigned shelf life.

In fact, QC and the factory manager should have regular meetings where all matters related to shelf life is discussed.  This includes shelf life issues of stock that are transferred from the freezer to internal clients in the organization.

Sundry Considerations/ Useful Information

What about returns?

Returns must be quarantined in the freezer or chiller for prompt evaluation and discarded.  The first loss of revenue should be the last loss of revenue due to returns.  Attempts to rework it has a long and very dismal history in meat processing, always ending in further losses.

What about reworks?

Products designated for reworks must be treated in then same way as all other other products.  If it is frozen or stored in the chiller, it must be packed with batch number, production date, product description and best before date.  Reworks may include things like bacon shavings that can be used in bacon sausage production.  It must be stored separately from raw products.

What about freezer hygiene?

In South Africa, SANS 10156:2014 applies.

FDA Recommended Shelf Life – Frozen and Chilled

US Food and Drug Administration published a chart indicating recommended shelf life storage chart for various foods.

2018-03-06-FoodStorageCharts-English_

Recommended Further Reading

Conclusion

Understanding the importance of setting shelf-life parameters is probably one of the most important aspects of food production.  It involves every aspect of food quality and factors impacting on it reach back from the production of the animal, through the slaughtering process and processing.  The effect of freezing on shelf life of stored food is critical.  This article is only an introduction to what is a complex subject matter, worthy of detailed study.

References

Avacta Blog. 2015.  Are you freezing or degrading your proteins?

Berry, B. W., Leddy, K. F..  1989.  Meat Freezing: A Source Book.  Elsevier.

Eskin, N. A. M., Henderson, H. M., Townsend, R. J..  1971.  Biochemistry of Foods.  Academic Press.

Evans, J. A..  2008.  Frozen Food Science and Technology.  Blackwell Publishing.

Fennema, O. R..  1996.  Food Chemistry.  Marcel Dekker (Water Minerals – Food Chemistry- O.R. Fennema)

Frelka, J., Phinney, D., Heldman, D. R.  Paper presented at a conference of the International Congress on Engineering and Food, Quebec City, Quebec, Canada.  2015.  Quantification of the freeze-concentration effect on reaction rate in a model food system

Fu, B.,  Labuza, T. P..   1997.  From their book, Quality in Frozen Food.  Chapter:  Shelf Life Testing:  Procedures and Prediction Methods for Frozen Foods (FrozenFoodShelfLife)

Heldman, D. R., Lund, D. B.. (Ed) 2006. Handbook of Food Engineering.  CRC PressVan Boekel, M. A. J. S., and Tijskens, L. M. M..  Kinetic modeling (Kinetic Modelling)

Herren, R. V..  2011.  Science of Animal Agriculture.  4th Edition.  Delmar.

James, S. J., James, B..  2000.  Meat Refrigeration.  Woodhead Publishing

Takenaka, N.,  Ueda, A, Daimon, T, Bandow, H.  Dohmaru, T, and Maeda, Y..  1996.  Acceleration Mechanism of Chemical Reaction by Freezing:  The Reaction of Nitrous Acid with Dissolved OxygenPhys. Chem.1996100 (32), pp 13874–13884, DOI: 10.1021/jp9525806, Publication Date (Web): August 8, 1996, Copyright © 1996 American Chemical Society

Image credit:  http://www.smedunia.in/products/frozen-meat

Concerning the Aging of Beef

Introduction

The first official reports on the fact that meat becomes more tender when stored were Bouley (1874) and Lehman (1907). The breakdown of protein was first indicated by Hoagland et al in 1917. The process has been called ripening, aging or conditioning. (Toldra, 2010)

Boxed beef was introduced in the USA in the 1950’s and 60’s for hotels and restaurants who could not buy in beef sides. When supermarkets demanded the same service, Iowa Beef Processors was founded in the 1970’s specifically to provide this. It was believed that the days of dry aging of beef were over. The process of hermetically sealing meat in polyethylene bags was developed by Cryovac. (Rice, 1997)

And excellent article from The Food Lab reviews home aging and the basis of butchery aging of beef. Here are the bullet points of a great article:

The Purpose Of Aging

In order to improve texture and flavour, the following is achieved:

– Moisture loss where up 30% of its initial volume due to water loss.

– Tenderization through enzymes naturally present in the meat which act to break down some of the tougher muscle fibers and connective tissues. A well-aged steak should be noticeably more tender than a fresh steak.

– Flavor change is caused by numerous processes, including enzymatic and bacterial action, along with the oxidation of fat and other fat-like molecules. Properly dry-aged meat will develop deeply beefy, nutty, and almost cheese-like aromas. (Foodlab)

Is aged meat really better than fresh meat?

A panel of tasters tested meat aged to various degrees and rank them by overall preference, tenderness, and funkiness. Almost everybody who tasted meat that had been aged for a couple of weeks—the period after which some degree of tenderization has occurred, but seriously funky flavor has yet to develop—preferred it to completely fresh meat. (Foodlab)

On the other hand, folks were more mixed about meat aged longer than that. Many preferred the more complex, cheese-like flavors that developed with meat aged between 30 and 45 days. Some even liked the ultra-funky flavors that developed in 45- to 60-day-old meat. Where you lie on that spectrum is a matter of taste. (Foodlab)

Selecting Meat to Age

Choose a large piece that is best cooked with quick cooking methods. This makes the standard steakhouse cuts—the New York strip, the rib steak, and the porterhouse—the ideal cuts for aging. the easiest to find is rib steak, which is what you get when you cut a prime rib between the bone into individual steaks. (Foodlab)

Dont try and age individual steaks. The straks beximes so dried out as to be completely inedible. After trimming away the desiccated and slightly moldy bits (perfectly normal for dry-aged meat), one is left with a sliver of meat about a half centimeter thick. It was impossible to cook to anything lower than well-done, making my effective yield a big fat zero. Dry aging is done with large cuts. (Foodlab)

The FoodLab tested large cuts in 4 def C temp, with air circulation achieved with a small fan. Humidity was left untouched which fluctuated between 80% at the start and 30% later in the process. (Foodlab)

The more protection you have for the meat from the extetior, the better your final yield. When you dry-age meat for any length of time that’s enough to make a difference, the exterior layers get completely desiccated and must be trimmed away. The less protected the “good” meat, the more of it you’ll throw in the trash and waste. (Foodlab)

Such protection can be by leaving the fat cap on. The fat cap effectively guards the meat against moisture loss, leaving us with a spinalis muscle that is 100% edible. The yield you get amounts to basically the equivalent of a completely normal-sized roast. If you imagine your prime rib as a long cylinder, the only meat you actually end up losing is from either end. The fat cap and bones will completely protect the sides. (Foodlab)

Jess Pryles adds the following wisdom: Overall, a number of factors determine how significantly meat will benefit from aging. Lower grades actually get more out of it, so a Select graded cut will respond better than a Choice graded cut, because there’s more room for improvement. Although a certain amount of aging does ultimately help all beef, some muscles respond better than others; so the eye part of your ribeye (Longissimum dorsi) will have a higher tenderness response than the cap on your ribeye (Spinalis dorsi), even though you’ll be buying them together as one steak. And have you ever noticed it’s only beef that gets aged? Well, out of all the commercial consumer proteins, beef is the most variable in terms of tenderness. Generally, pork, lamb and veal are tender enough to begin with, it’s just poor cooking skills that can make them tough. (Jess Pryles) The relative young age of these animals, compared to beef, further leads to generally more tender pork and lamb.

What Causes Flavor Change?

If you dry-age an untrimmed, bone-in, fat-cap-intact prime rib, you’ll end up losing about 30% of its total weight over the course of 21 to 30 days or so. The weight is almost exclusively lost from the outer layers—that is, the portion of the meat that is going to be trimmed off anyway, regardless of whether it’s aged or not. The fact is, with the exception of the cut faces that need to be trimmed off, the edible portion of an aged prime rib is pretty much identical to that of a fresh prime rib. (Foodlab)

Flavour is not “concentrated.” A trimmed steak cut from an aged piece of beef is pretty much the exact same size as a trimmed steak cut from a fresh piece of beef. (Foodlab)

The Food Lab measured the density of beef aged to various degrees against that of completely fresh meat. He cut out chunks of meat of identical weights from the centers of ribeyes aged to various degrees, making sure to exclude any large swaths of fat. He then submerged each of these chunks of meat in water and measured their displacement. What was found was that meat aged to 21 days displaced about 4% less liquid than completely fresh meat. A slight increase, but not much. Meat aged all the way to 60 days displaced a total of 5% less—showing that the vast majority of moisture loss occurs in the first three weeks. (Foodlab)

Once the meat was cooked, these differences in density completely disappeared. That is, the less aged the meat was, the more moisture it expelled. (Foodlab)

One of the side effects of aging is the breakdown of meat protein and connective tissue. This makes the meat more tender, as well as causing it to contract less as it cooks. Less contraction = less moisture loss. (Foodlab)

When all was said and done, in many cases, the meat that was 100% fresh ended up losing even more liquid than the dry-aged meat. (Foodlab)

Meat dry-aged for 21 days (the period during which the largest change in density of the internal meat occurs) was indistinguishable from fresh meat in terms of flavor. The improvements were in texture alone. It wasn’t until between the 30- and 60-day marks that real, noticeable changes in flavor occurred, and during that time period, there was essentially no change in internal density. Thus, moisture loss is not tied to flavor change. (Foodlab)

Why does meat that’s being aged stop losing moisture after the first few weeks?

It’s a matter of permeability. As meat loses moisture, its muscle fibers get more and more closely packed, making it more and more difficult for moisture under the surface to continue escaping. After the first few weeks, the outer layer of meat is so tight and tough that it is virtually impermeable to moisture loss. (Foodlab)

If it’s not moisture loss, what factors do affect the flavor of aged beef?

A couple of things. The first is enzymatic breakdown of muscle proteins into shorter fragments, which alters their flavor in desirable ways. But this effect is completely secondary to the far more important change that occurs when fat is exposed to oxygen. It’s the oxidation of fat, as well as bacterial action on the surfaces of the meat, that causes the most profound flavor change—the funkiness you get in meat that has been aged for over 30 days. (Foodlab)

It’s true that much of this funky flavor is concentrated on the outermost portions of the meat—the parts that largely get trimmed away—and, for this reason, if you want to get the most out of your aged meat, it’s vitally important that you serve it with the bone attached. Unlike the fat cap, which is completely removed and discarded, the outer areas of bones will still house tons of oxidized fat and affected meat. The aromas from this meat reach your nose as you’re eating, altering your entire experience. Lovers of aged steak also prize the spinalis (again, that’s the outer cap of meat on a ribeye) for its richer, more highly aged flavor. (Foodlab)

Aging Setup

It’s very simple and requires virtually no special equipment. There are just a few things you’ll need:

– Fridge space. The best thing you can use is a dedicated mini fridge, one that you can keep closed so that the meat smells don’t permeate the rest of your food, and vice versa. Aged meat can pick up aromas from your refrigerator. Unless your refrigerator is odor-free, a mini fridge is the best possible option. (Foodlab)

– A fan. To promote drying of the surface and even aging, you want a fan inside your fridge to keep air circulating. This works in much the same way as a convection oven, promoting more even cooling and humidity all around. I used a standard desk fan. In order to get it in there, I cut a small notch in the seal for the fridge door—just large enough for the cord to fit through. (Foodlab)

– A rack. Your meat must be elevated on a rack. I tried aging a piece of meat on a plate and directly on the floor of the fridge. It did not work. The part in contact with the plate didn’t dehydrate properly and ended up rotting. Aging on a wire rack, or directly on the wire shelf of a fridge, is the way to go. (Foodlab)

– Wrapping seems to be one of those controversies which experience should settle. Some authors and “aging experts” insist to wrap the roast loosely in a triple layer of cheesecloth. After the first day, carefully unwrap and then rewrap with the same cheesecloth to keep the cloth fibers from sticking to the meat. (Fine Cooking).

– Time. You will be rewarded with the steak of your dreams for your patience. (Foodlab)

It was found that humidity plaid a minimal role in aging. After the first couple of weeks, the outer layers of the beef become all but impervious to moisture. It really doesn’t make much difference how humid or dry the environment is; the internal meat is protected.

Timing

Blind tests results showed that aging time was largely a matter of personal preference, but here’s a rough guide to what happens over the course of 60 days:

– 14 days or less: Not much point. No change in flavor; very little detectable change in tenderness. Very few people preferred this steak. (Foodlab)

– 14 to 28 days: The steak starts to get noticeably more tender, particularly toward the higher end of this scale. Still no major changes in flavor. This is about the age of a steak at your average high-end steakhouse. (Foodlab)

– 28 to 45 days: Some real funkiness starts to manifest itself. At 45 days, there are distinct notes of blue or cheddar cheese, and the meat is considerably moister and juicier.
Most tasters preferred 45-day-aged steak to all others. (Foodlab)

– 45 to 60 days: Extremely intense flavors emerge. A handful of tasters enjoyed the richness of this highly aged meat, though some found it a little too much to handle for more than a bite or two. One expert said of the 60-day steak, “I may have hit my aging threshold.” It is rare to find any restaurant serving a steak this well-aged.” (Foodlab)

What about wet-aging? What is it, and does it work?

Wet aging is simple: Put your beef in a Cryovac bag, and let it sit on the shelf (or, more likely, on refrigerated trucks as it gets shipped across the country) for a few weeks. Tell your customers that it’s aged; sell it at a premium. (Foodlab)

The problem is that wet-aging is nothing like dry-aging. For starters, there is no oxidation of fat in wet aging, which means that there is no development of funky flavors. A minimal amount of flavor change will occur through enzymatic reactions, but they are, well, minimal. Additionally, wet-aging prevents the drainage of excess serum and meat juices. Tasters often report that wet-aged meat tastes “sour” or “serum-y.” (Foodlab)

Wet-aging can offer the same tenderizing and moisture-retaining benefits as dry-aging, but that’s about it. In reality, wet-aging is a product of laziness and money-grubbing. It’s easy to let that Cryovacked bag of beef from the distributor sit around for a week before the bag is opened, allowing it to be called “aged” and sold for a higher price. I don’t buy it. When you are being sold “aged” meat, be sure to ask whether it’s been dry-aged or wet-aged. If they don’t know the answer or are unwilling to share, it’s best to assume the worst. (Foodlab)

The other drawback to wet-aging: It can’t be carried out for as long as dry-aging. It seems counterintuitive, considering that a wet-aged hunk of meat is largely protected by the outside environment. But if even a smidge of harmful anaerobic bacteria makes its way into that bag, the meat will rot inside its cover, giving no indication that it’s done so until you open it up. (Foodlab)

What about those fancy “dry-aging bags”?

Like me, you must have seen those dry-aging bag videos kicking around the internet. The idea is that you seal a cut of beef in some sort of special bag that allows you to safely age it at home. Supposedly, it aids in aging by allowing moisture out, but letting no air in. (Foodlab)

I ordered a few kits to test this out myself. Before I even began aging, there were problems. I went through an entire $25.50 kit’s worth of three bags, none of which were able to form a tight seal using my standard FoodSaver vacuum sealer (and yes, I followed the directions to a T). After ordering one more kit (spending a total of $51 on this), I finally got a single bag to seal, only to discover the next day that it in fact was not sealed properly and had leaked:

I decided to let it go anyway, pressing out as much air as possible and trying to ensure good contact between the bag and the surface of the meat, as the instructions recommended. (Foodlab)

After aging it for several weeks, I unwrapped the roast and found this:

Not the most promising sight, but I dutifully trimmed away the molded areas, trimmed down the roast, and cut steaks from it. The taste tests I performed showed no significant difference between steak aged in one of these bags and steak aged in the open air. Where I did feel a difference was in my wallet, which was now $51 lighter than it was when I started. (Foodlab)

Innovations

The following are great aging innovations:

Conclusion

A Cryovac executive once said that “Its what you’re use to that tastes best and fewer and fewer Americans have an opportunity to become used to dry-aged beef.” (Rice, 1997) That may be true and is particularly true in the meat industry. The experience of eating dry aged beef is, however, so much richer, and tastier than fresh or wet aged beef, that it will always have its place in fine restaurants and homes of meat lovers.

References:

Fine Cooking, Article by Jennifer Armentrout.

THE FOOD LAB, Article by J. KENJI LÓPEZ-ALT

Rice, W. 1997. The Steak Lover’s Cookbook. M Kathryn Thompson.

Toldra, F. (Editor) 2010. Handbook of Meat Processing. Blackwell Publishing.

Jess Pryles

Photo Credit: Jess Pryles

The Chemistry of Sulfur Dioxide in Boerewors

The Chemistry of Sulfur Dioxide in Boerewors
By Eben van Tonder
15 November 2018

Introduction

When making boerewors for commercial sale, we add sulfur dioxide as preservative and giving longevity to the product colour.

Spoilage of meat by microorganisms leads to the development of off-flavors, oxidative rancidity, discoloration, gas production and, often, slime formation (LLOYD- PURYEAR et al., 1991; COCOLIN et al., 2004). The reason for fresh sausage being highly perishable are their characteristic pH and aw values. In boerewors the pH is kept low through the addition of vinegar which itself is a string anti-microbial which should aid greatly in preserving the sausage.

It may however not be sufficient and sulfur dioxide is added as an additional hurdle. Along with factory cleaning and maintaining processing temperatures of the meat between 2 and 3 deg C, boerewors should have a good shelf life under chilled conditions and vacuum packed or packed in a foamo tray.

Here we review sulfur dioxide.

Mechanism as antimicrobial

Sulfur dioxide (SO2) is a broad spectrum antimicrobial agent and antioxidant. It has been known since the early 1900 that only the free form of sulfur dioxide (i.e. unbound to another molecule) have any antimicrobial efficacy. In the 1960’s it was shown that molecular SO2 is several hundred times more effective than bisulfite. (Henderson, Pat. 2009)

The antimicrobial mechanism of SO2 is that it enters the microbe and disrupts the activity of the enzymes and proteins of the cell. (Henderson, Pat. 2009)

Only the SO2 molecule can enter through the cell membrane, it is the concentration of SO2 that controls the antimicrobial efficacy. (Henderson, Pat. 2009)

The percentage of SO2 is again in turn dependent on pH. The lower the pH, the greater the percentage of SO2. SO2 readily dissolves in water. The reaction is

H2O + SO2 ↔ H+ + HSO3– ↔ 2H+ + SO3=

SO2 is what we refer to as molecular SO2. The products to the right of the balanced reaction are called the sulfites. HSO3 is called bisulfite and SO3= is called sulfite. “The negative signs (– and =) denote the negative charge of the bisulfite and sulfite ions (molecules with a charge are called ions). The double arrows (↔) of the equation denote that the reaction is at equilibrium.” (Henderson, Pat. 2009)

At equilibrium, the rate at which bisulfite ions become sulfite is the same as the rate at which sulfite ions become bisulfite. The reaction between the different types of sulfite is going both ways at a steady state so the concentration of the sulfite compounds remains steady.” (Henderson, Pat. 2009)

“While the concentration of the different forms of sulfites may be steady, it does not mean there are equal amounts of the compounds in solution; the acidity or pH of the water has a huge effect on their concentration. The more acidic or the lower the pH of the water, the more heavily the reaction is weighted to the molecular SO2 side. The more basic or higher the pH is, the more sulfite is present.” (Henderson, Pat. 2009)

“Sulfites will also react with other chemical constituents found in a meat cure such as sugars, acetaldehyde, and phenolic compounds, added to the meat as liquid smoke or during the smoking process. When a sulfite reacts with another molecule and becomes part of its structure it no longer takes part in the equilibrium reaction and it is called bound. Sulfites that still are part of the equilibrium reaction are called free. The combined amounts of free and bound sulfites are called “total SO2.”” (Henderson, Pat. 2009)

The more compounds that are available in meat and in the meat cure for sulfites to bind to, the higher the ratio of bound to total sulfites there will be. Therefore, smoked sausages that are produced with a sweet cure and where SO2 is relied on for preservation will have a lower ratio of free to total SO2. (Henderson, Pat. 2009)

“Knowing both the amount of free and total sulfites is very important because only the free forms of sulfites are available for providing a preservative role. This is often expressed as ppm free SO2/ppm total SO2 to denote which number is free and which is total; these numbers can readily be determined by chemical analysis.” (Henderson, Pat. 2009)

Effect in Meat Spoilage Organisms

“Some common spoilage organisms are Acetobacter, Lactobacillus, Pediococcus, and Brettanomyces. All of these are sensitive to some degree to sulfur dioxide but the best results come from a combination of sulfur dioxide and good factory hygiene practices.” (Henderson, Pat. 2009)

“Acetobacter is also known as acetic acid or vinegar bacteria. As the name implies, it can grow in meat and produce vinegar (acetic acid). It can be controlled using sulfur dioxide.” (Henderson, Pat. 2009)

If Lactobacillus has already become established, lysozyme (an antimicrobial enzyme that is effective at high pH), can be added to control growth. Pediococcus produces an off-aroma that is described as “vegetal” or “dirty socks” and often comes from equipment and meat working surfaces that have not been kept clean. (Henderson, Pat. 2009)

Mechanism as antioxidant

The role of an antioxidant in the boerewors will be to provide cour stability. Fading of the cour will happen due to oxidation or the action of light.

Although the sulfite ion (SO3=) can bind with oxygen, there is almost no sulfite ion present in solution at the pH range found in boerewors. Rather sulfur dioxide prevents oxidation by binding with the precursors involved in oxidative reactions preventing them from reacting with oxygen or by binding with compounds already oxidized to reverse oxygen’s effect. (Henderson, Pat. 2009)

In fruit juices, sulfur dioxide acts by reducing the activity of the degenerative enzyme tyrosinase (polyphenol oxidase). (Henderson, Pat. 2009)

If colour is the only reason for adding sodium or potassium metabisulfite, I would seriously consider rather using ascorbic acid or erythorbic acid. The latter is a stereoisomer of ascorbic acid and a lot less expensive even though one sacrifice a considerable amount of functionality. It may be easier to work with erythorbic acid. In combination with isocitric acid, these have been proven to be highly effective. Isocitric acid is a structural isomer of citric acid.

I refer to the use of the acids, but of course, the salts may be used with the same results, depending on price and availability. Care must, however, be taken that the pH of the sausage does not drop below 5, to prevent denaturing of the meat proteins.

Mix the ingredients in a solution and determine its pH. Adjust to around 5.7 by using sodium hydroxide or potassium carbonate or sodium hydrogen carbonate or something similar.

The amount of isocitric acid to be added is 0.2 to 20 times the ascorbic or erythorbic acids. Ascorbic or erythorbic acid is normally added at 0.05% of FP.

Such a blend was proposed in 1969 by Nakao, Seishi Takagi, and Hiromi Nakatani on behalf of Takeda Pharmaceutical Co Ltd.

How to add SO2?

“Sulfur dioxide is available in its pure form as a compressed gas that can be made into an aqueous solution. Most processors use a stable, powdered form of sulfur dioxide called potassium metabisulfite or sodium metabisulfite. Potassium metabisulfite has the molecular formula of K2S2O5 and is 57.6% available SO2 by weight. Potassium metabisulfite is usually abbreviated as PMBS or sometimes KMB or KMBS (K is the chemical symbol for potassium).

The molecular formula for sodium metabisulfite is Na2S2O5 and is 66.5% available SO2 by weight. we abbreviate it SMBS.

The formula and calculations for determining how many grams of PMBS you need to add for a given rise in ppm of SO2 are:

final product weight x ppm required /1000 x 0.576 = grams of SMBS to add

The formula for SMBS is:

final product weight x ppm required /1000 x 0.665 = grams of SMBS to add

1000 converts mg/L to g/L.

0.576 and 0.665 are the g’s of SO2 in PMBS and SMBS respectively.

There is a certain amount of guesswork in how much SO2 will be available. Always add a bit more. Many countries around the world, including South Africa, allows 500ppm in the final product. At least 30% of the SO2 from PMBS or SMBS added to meat will be lost immediately. Therefore, aim for 600 ppm inclusion which should get you to the 500 ppm. I suggest 1g to 1.2g per kg FP in sausages.

The differences between PMBS and SMBS are sodium metabisulfite has a molecular weight of 190.1 g/mole. A maximum of 650 g of this chemical can be dissolved in 1 liter of water at 20 degrees Celsius. Potassium metabisulfite has a molecular weight of 222.32 g/mole and is less soluble in water. Only 450 g can be dissolved in 1 liter of water. (Morgan, S. 2017)

Some processors prefer to use a premixed aqueous solution of sulfur dioxide rather than PMBS. The liquid is typically 5% to 10% SO2 by weight and it can be purchased or made up at the processing plant by dissolving SO2 gas or PMBS into distilled water. The liquid can be directly added to meat without mixing and the proper amount is measured volumetrically instead of weighed on a scale.

Measuring Sulfur Dioxide

The exact amount of both free and total sulfur dioxide in meat can only be determined by chemical analysis. Two primary methods that are used are known as the Ripper method and the Aeration-Oxidation method. Both methods have limitations and require an investment in laboratory equipment and chemicals and a degree of expertise in laboratory practices.

Conclusion

Vinegar or acetic acid provides powerful antimicrobial action in boerewors. Adding Sulfur Dioxide will contribute to the overall antimicrobial action and enhance and prolong the fresh meat colour. It will also increase the molecular Sulfur Dioxide in the sausage matrix. Smoking boerewors will reduce this by depleting the molecular Sulfur Dioxide.

Producers must consider adding sulfur dioxide carefully since it is a known allergen. Despite this, it is a very popular chemical to add to fresh sausages. Greater care should be taken with hygiene during production, keeping meat temp < 3 deg C and it should not be necessary to add this. A suggestion that will horrify meat scientists around the world and masters butchers alike is that if there is any doubt about the micro on the meat such as will be the case if mince is used, I would wash the trim first with a 2% acetic acid solution in cold water. Dip it using a clean crate. I would then use sodium ascorbate or erythorbate in conjunction with isocitric acid to address the matter of colour fading.

Overall Boerewors should have a good shelf life.

References:

COCOLIN, L. et al. Study of the ecology of fresh sausages and characterization of populations of lactic acid bacteria by molecular methods. Applied and Environmental Microbiology, v. 70, p. 1883-1894, 2004. PMid:15066777 PMCid:PMC383013. http:// dx.doi.org/10.1128/AEM.70.4.1883-1894.2004

Henderson, Pat. 2009. Science behind this anti-microbial, anti-oxidant, wine additive. Practical Winery & Vineyard Journal. January/ February 2009.

LLOYD-PURYEAR, M. et al. Meningitis caused by Psychrobacter immobilis in an infant. Journal of Clinical and Microbiology, v. 29, p. 2041-2042, 1991. PMid:1774332 PMCid:PMC270256.

Morgan, S. 2017. Sodium Metabisulfite Vs. Potassium Metabisulfite.

Oupa Eben’s Boerewors

My Oupa Eben was a formidable man.  This is seen in his life and how he made his Boerewors.  Here are the recipe and his story.  I use Kobus’ general production method with Oupa Eben’s recipe.  Anneliese, my cousin, found it and sent it to me.

Meat:  20kg meat in proportion: 8, 8, 4 fat (spek).  8 pork en 8 beef.  800mL grape vinegar. Not spiced vinegar.  Run the mix through the kidney plate or 13 mm. Meat and vinegar.

Then add spices.

Spice mix:
8 tablespoons salt
6 heaped tablespoons coriander
6 teaspoons pepper
1/2 cup vinegar
2 tablespoons brown sugar
1 teaspoon cloves
(2 tablespoons thyme) – optional
(2 teaspoons nutmeg) – optional
(100g MSG) – optional

Sprinkle evenly over meat pieces. Mince and mix immediately without kneeing meat. Do NOT form into balls. The casings must be soaked in luke warm water overnight. Run water through each casing to ensure it is wet on the inside.

After mixing it all in by hand, run through 4.5 plate and stuff.

Use sheep casings.

For commercial sales, add sodium sulfite, 1g per kg FP.

My Uncle, Oom Jan Kok, sent me the following on his dad, and my grandfather, Oupa Eben:

Ebenhaezer Kok: Seun, Eggenoot, Pa, Oupa, Boer, Kerkmens en gemeenskapsmens.

Eben Kok
Pa, Oupa en Oupagrootjie.

Enenhaezer Kok is gebore op 18 Junie 1911 in Heilbron in die Vrystaat.

Agtergrondgeskiedenis en Familieherkoms

Hy was die tweede seun van Johannes Wilem Kok (Gebore 04 April 1880 te Winburg in die Vrystaat) en Maria Margaretha Klingbiel (Gebore op 17 Oktober 1879).Oupa Jan neem as 19 jarige deel aan die Anglo Boereoorlog en word as krygsgevangene na Dyatalawakamp op Ceylon gestuur waar hy op 1 Augustus 1901 in hut 54 intrek. Hier op die eiland, as krygsgevangene, kry hy die roeping om hom as Sendeling te laat oplei en na die vredesluiting in 1902 skryf hy in as student aan die Sendinginstituut te Wellington. Hy voltooi sy studies en begin sy bediening in Heilbron se Sendinggemeente op 7 April 1906. Hy werk aanvanklik vir ‘n jaar op proefbasis en word daarna permanent in die gemeente bevestig. Dit was ‘n groot, uitgestrekte gemeente wat die dorpe Petrus Steyn, Edenville, Koppies, Oranjeville, Viljoensdrif en Heilbron ingesluit het.

Oupa Jan is op 08 Julie 1907 getroud met met Maria Margaretha Klingbiel (gebore op 17 Oktober 1879 en oorlede op 27 Augustus 1942. Hy trou weer op 4 Julie 1944 met ouma Hannie wat eintlik maar die enigste Ouma was wat ek geken het. Dit was haar derde huwelik.

Aanvanklik het hy sy werk in hierdie uitgestrekte gebied met ‘n trapfiets gedoen. Na die trapfiets kon hy darem ‘n perd aanskaf en het later ‘n perdekar gehad en kon uiteindelik in 1933 sy eerste motor koop.

Na dertig jaar in die bedienig (1936), word ‘n gesamentlike diens van die blanke gemeente en die Sendinggemeente gehou om die geleentheid feestelik gevier. As blyk van waardering word aan hom ‘n toga geskenk. Hierdie diens is gehou op 29 Maaart 1936. Op 26 April 1936 word ‘n soortgelyke Feesdiens in die Sendinggemeente gehou en by die geleentheid het Oupa Jan se broer, Hendrik, wat ook ‘n sendeling was op Marquard woon die geleentheid by. Eerwaarde Hendrik Kok preek op hierdie besondere dag uit Josua 4: 5, 6 – “ . . .en Josua het vir hulle gesê: Trek uit voor die ark van die Here julle God tot binne in die Jordaan , en tel vir julle klippe op, elke man een op sy skouer volgens die getal van die stamme van die kinders van Israel sodat dit ‘n teken onder julle kan wees. As julle kinders later vra en sê: Wat beteken hierdie klippe vir julle? Die tema van sy preek handel oor die gedenkklippe op ons lewenspaaie wat ons herinner aan die groot dinge wat die Here in ons lewens laat gebeur.

(Die inligting in hierdie berig kom uit Die Kerkbode van 27 Mei 1936)
Oupa Jan tree af op 27 April 1947 en is oorlede op Heilbron op 26 Junie 1950.
Eben was die tweede oudste van 5 Kinders. Hulle was:

1. Johannes Willem Kok (Johan, gebore 02 Mei 1908). Hy trou met Doreen Uckerman en hulle het vier kinders: Gill, (Gebore 18 Oktober 1934), Myra (Gebore op 07 Julie 1937), Leon (Gebore op ) en Helen (Gebore op 10 Desember 1950)

2. Frederick Gustaff Klingbiel Kok (Gustaf, gebore 12 Mei 1910. Gustaff is jonk dood. Ek kry egter nie die datum en die ouderdom waarop hy dood is nie.

3. Ebenhaezer (Eben, ook latter Kokkie of Kok genoem) Kok, is gebore op 18 Junie 1911en oorlede op 21 Februarie 1981 op Vredefort. Hy trou op 07 Augustus 1939 met Susanna Maria Uys (Gebore 23 April 1911 op Vredefort en oorlede op 04 Januarie 1993 te Warmbad).

Hulle het drie kinders: Susanna Maria (Sannie, ook bekend as Santjie. Gebore op 26 Julie 1940), Johannes Willem (Jan en later Kokkie genoem. Gebore op 03 Mei 1942) en Michiel Eksteen Uys Kok (Uysie, gebore op 28 Februarie 1945)

4. Maria Margaretha KOK (Miempie), gebore op 23 November 1913 en oorlede op 02 April 1956. Sy trou met Adolf Samuel Bosman (Dolf). Hulle het drie dogters: Mariet (Gebore 27 Mei 1935), Ronnie (Gebore 26 November 1936) en Jantjie (Gebore 28 Februarie 1941)

5. Timotius Kok (Timo) KOK, gebore op 05 Augustus 1917. Hy is getroud met Thelma Berriman en hulle het geen kinders gehad nie. Toe die tweede wêreldoorlog uitgebreek het, het Timo by die lugmag aangesluit en is hy , soos hulle daardie jare gesê het, na die Noorde gestuur. Daar was hy betrokke in die oorlog in Egipte en is later na Italië om die stryd daar voort te sit.

Oupa Eben as Boer

Oupa Eben matrikuleer aan die plaaslike skool op Heilbron in 1929 en na skool gaan werk hy by Standardbank. Hy voltooi enkele bankeksamens en werk onder andere op Vrede, Vredefort en Koppies. Om hom te help met sy studies koop hy in 1934 vir hom ‘n Kings English Dictionary wat vandag nog in my besit is. Terwyl hy op Vredefort gewerk het, het hy ouma Susan ontmoet en hulle is op 07 Augustus 1939 getroud. Pa het net ‘n fiets gehad om mee te ry en as hy gaan opsit het, het hy met die fiets Leeuspruit toe gery. Dit was 7 myl van die dorp af. Daar word vertel dat hy een aand baie laat – dit was donkermaan – terug is dorp toe. Hy het nie ‘n bees gesien wat in pad gelê het nie en hy is fiets en al bo-oor die slapende bees. Die storie wil ook dat ouma Susan haar oupa, Piet Rademan, moes help versorg. Hy het op daardie stadium by Oupa Giel en Ouma Santjie gebly en Ma was verantwoordelik vir sy versorging en daarom kon hulle eers trou na sy dood op 99 jarige ouderdom in 1937. Hulle was alby 28 toe hulle getroud is.

Ma se suster, Meraai, was 11 jaar jonger as sy en Eben en Susan wou op ‘n keer vir sy ouers op Heilbron gaan kuier. Op pad na Heilbron, naby Greenlands, het dit vreeslik gereën en hulle kon nie verder op die turfpad ry nie. Meraai was saam in die motor en toe ‘n vriendelike boer hulle nooi om vir die nag by hulle oor te bly het hy gesê: “Ek hoop nie julle gee om dat julle dogter vanaand by julle in die kamer slaap nie, want ons net een kamer beskikbaar”. In daardie jare was so iets ondenkbaar en Pa moes toe maar ewe gedweë die nag op die bank in die sitkamer slaap.

Van Vredefort af is Eben verplaas Koppies toe. Omdat hy in sy hart ‘n boer was het hulle op ‘n plot in die omgewing van Weltevrede net buite die dorp gaan woon. Ons drie kinders is al drie gebore terwyl hulle op die plot gewoon het. Daar was koeie, donkies skape, hoenders en kalkoene op die plot en hoewel ek maar net drie jaar oud was toe ons van daar af plaas toe getrek het,, kan ek vandag nog die reuk van die voerkamer onthou waar al die beeste en ander diere se kos gebêre is.

Terwyl hy op Koppies gewerk het, word hy verplaas na Natal. Ek kan ongelukkig nie die naam van die dorp onthou waarheen hy verplaas is nie. Oupa Giel en ouma Santjie was baie ontsteld omdat hulle kind so ver van hulle af moes weggaan en oupa Giel maak aan pa die aanbod om plaas toe te kom om saam met hom te boer. Hierdie groot skuif Leeuspruit toe vind in 1945 plaas net na Uysie se geboorte.

Pa was vasbeslote om van die boerdery ‘n sukses te maak. Die plaas was selfversorgend. Een keer per jaar in die winter is ‘n bees en ‘n vark geslag en wors en biltong en pekelvleis is gemaak. Daar was nognie yskaste of vrieskaste nie en die nodige verkoeling is gedoen met koelers wat deur middel van water wat verdamp het verkoel is. Verder was daar ‘n sifkas waarin vleis gehang is. Die sifkas (‘n “safe” genoem) is van gaas gemaak om vlieë en brommers uit te hou. ‘n Skaap is elke tweede of derde week geslag, daar was hoenders, eende en makoue wat eiers voorsien het en botter is gemaak van die room van die paar melkkoeie wat gemelk is. Rieme is van die beesvelle gebrei wat gebruik is om die osse in te span. Die hoenders, die eiers, die room en die botter was inkomste om die kruideniersware te koop as daar dorp toe gegaan is.

Daar is net met osse geploeg en geplant en geskoffel. Kunsmis was ‘n luukse en ‘n onnodige uitgawe want voor planttyd is die mis uit die bees- en skaapkrale op die lande gegooi as bemesting

Pa was nie bang vir harde werk nie. Oupa het drie plase gehad: Leeuspruit, Stillehoogte en Christina. Laasgenoemde 2 plase was ongeveer 25 Km van Leeuspruit af waar ons gewoon het. As daar op dié twee plase geploeg en geplant is, het hy daar oorgebly van Sondagaand af tot Saterdagmiddag. Daar was geen gebou hier nie en hy het van plastiek kunsmissakke wat hy aanmekaar gewerk het, afskortings gemaak wat om die sleepwa vasgemaak is en daar het hy op ‘n kampbedjie geslaap en sy kos op ‘n oop vuur gemaak. Later is die stoor op Stillehoogte gebou en was dit sy blyplek as die lande daar bewerk is. Uiteindelik het Pa vir Oupa oortuig dat hulle ‘n trekker moet koop. Oupa was nie baie inskiklik nie, maar uiteindelik is daar ‘n Fordsontrekker gekoop. So ‘n mooi bloue.

Soos dit moes gebeur was daar die eerste jaar wat die trekker gebruik is, ‘n totale misoes en Pa en die trekker het die skuld gekry vir die misoes.

Op die plaas was alles nie maanskyn en rose nie. Oupa was ‘n moeilike mens en vir alles wat verkeerd gegaan het het Pa die skuld gekry. Die woordewisselings wat hierop gevolg het was heftig en die enigste ontvlugting was om die vlakte in te loop en daar te gaaan huil.

Ek was nooit bewus van wat die ooreenkoms tussen Pa en Oupa was oor vergoeding nie. Daar is nooit met kinders oor sulke goed gepraat nie. Pa het sy eie beeste en skape gehad en Ma het, so ver as wat ek kan terug onthou met hoenders en kalkoene geboer. Hoedereiers is Vrydae, wat dorpdag was, verkoop en die geld gebruik vir kruideniersware en om ons drie Kokkies se basse toe te hou.
Omdat dit twee huishoudings was, is die kruideniersware se uitgawe tot op die laaste pennie tussen Ma en Ouma gedeel.

Pa was ‘n perdeman en het altyd perde gehad. Op Leeuspruit was dit twee blou skimmelperde met die name Moskou en Breker. Oupa het ook ‘n perekar gehad en die twee skimmels is dikwels voor die kar gespan en dan het ons daarmee by die bure gaan kuier.

Geld vir luukses was daar nooit. Selfs ons kerk en skoolbroekies wat ek en Uysie gedra het, en Sannie se rokkies is deur een of ander “Naaldwerkster” gemaak. Gekoopte klere was ‘n luukse. Een maal per jaar, kort voor Kersfees is ons Potchefstroom toe vir Kersinkopies en dan is daar net by Die Indiërs gekoop, want hulle was die goedkoopste. In daardie jare was dit ‘n vernedering en ‘n skande vir ‘n “Afrikaner” om met ‘n “Koelie” besigheid te doen. My eerste pak klere het ek in 1959 gekry toe ek belydenis van geloof moes aflê. Die pak, ‘n dubbelborspak, is deur ‘n kleremaker op Parys gemaak.

Na ouma Santjie se dood het oom Sypie besluit om af te tree as skoolhoof en het hulle van Welkom af verhuis plaas toe omdat tannie Meraai eendag Leeuspruit sou erf (Leeuspruit was Uysgrond en omdat sy haar ouma Uys se naam gehad het, moes sy Leeuspruit erf). Pa en Ma moes Stillehoogte toe trek. Stillehoogte was Rademangrond en Ma het haar ouma Rademan se naam gehad.

Op Stillehoogte was daar net ‘n stoor en voor hulle kon trek moes daar eers ‘n huis gebou word. Ek onthou nie die jaartal nie, maar dit moes in die omgewing van 1960 gewees het.

Van toe af het dit met die Kokke finasiëel begin beter gaan, want Oupa kon op sy eie manier boer sonder Oupa Giel se inmenging. Uysie skryf in 1963 matriek en vir hom was daar net een ding en dit was “Boer”. Hy doen sy diploma aan die landboukollege op Potchefstroom en na hy daar klaar was, het hy plaas toe gekom en saam met Oupa geboer tot en met Oupa se dood op 21 Februarie 1981. Uysie het natuurlik die plaas Christina ge-erf na oupa Giel se dood omdat hy die eerste naamgenoot van oupa Giel was.

Oupa Eben as gesinsman

Alhoewel geld skaars was, het ons nooit honger gaan slaap nie, maar daar was nooit geld vir luukses nie. Ek wou bitter graag op skool klavierlesse geneem het, maar daar was net nie geld nie.

Op ‘n dag het ek op ‘n brief afgekom wat die bank vir Pa geskryf het om hom te waarsku dat hy baie diep in die skuld is by die bank en hy word gewaarsku om die Bankbestuurder te kom sien in die verband met sy skuld.

As kinders het ons net liefde geken en ek dink nie ek het een dag gehoor dat daar harde woorde tussen my pa en my ma gesê is nie. Saans net voor sononder het ons gaan stap en dan gewedywer om te kyk wie die eerste ‘n aandblom kon sien. Dit was ‘n klein struikie wat net in die nag geblom het en die volgende oggend as die son opgekom het is die blommetjie weer dood.

Saans het ons radio geluister en speletjies gespeel. Pa het ons gereeld laat somme doen en ek en Sannie moes altyd met mekaar meeding om te sien wie die meeste somme reg het. Ons moes ook skrif oefen. Pa het die mooiste handskrif gehad en was baie teleurgesteld dat nie een van ons drie kinders sy mooi handskrif ge-erf het nie. Hy het geglo jy skryf met ‘n vulpen en die balpuntpenne wat toe net in die mode gekom het, was volgens hom die einde van mooi en netjies skryf.

Pa het ook geglo dat ‘n man nie kan trou voor hy nie ‘n skaapboud oordentlik kon sny nie of ‘n hoender kon opsny sonder dat die verskillende dele van hoender stukkend of onherkaanbaar was.

Hy het ook daarvan gehou om party aande kos te maak – dit was wel baie selde. Tamatiebredie was sy forte. Sondae was dit sy werk om die groente uit sy tuin te skil en skoon te maak vir die Sondagmaal.

Sondagaande moes ons na die kerkdiens oor die radio luister en dan het Pa en Ma langs mekaar gesit en hande vasgehou.

Pa was ook ‘n harde man wat nie twee keer gepraat het nie. Ek kan nie een pak slae onthou wat hy een van sy kinders gegee het nie, maar as hy gepraat het, het jy geluister. Ouma was die een wat altyd met die slipper of die hareborsel die slaanwerk moes doen.

Pa was ook, soos dit daardie dae maar die gebruik was, baie hard en kwaai met die swart werkers wat op die plaas gewerk het en hy het baie graag sy vuiste gebruik om gesag af te dwing. Hy was self ‘n harde werker, maar het ook van diegene wat vir hom gewerk het dieselfde verwag.

Oupa Eben as familieman

Omdat Pa, nadat hy plaas toe gekom het, baie min kontak met sy eie familie gehad het wat almal baie ver was, het hy vervreemd geraak van baie van hulle. Al kuiers by familie wat ek onthou was by Ouma en Oupa op Heilbron en dan het ons en die Bosmans gereeld oor en weer gekuier. Vakansies het die drie niggies plaas toe gekom en dit was een groot fees en daar moes in elke vakansie wat hulle daar was, ten minste een “middernagfees” gehou word. Lekkers vir die middernagfees is gekoop met geld wat ons weke voor die tyd begin bymekaar maak het. Die kuiers by sy broer Johan in Pretoria kan ek seker op die vingers van my een hand tele en kuiers van hulle op die plaas onthou ek glad nie. Ook ons en Oom Timo en tannie Thelma het selde oor en weer gekuier. Pa, oom Johan en oom Timo het mekaar net oor en weer gebel as hulle verjaar het.

Op Vredefort het ons tussen Ma se baie ooms en tantes en neefs en niggies gewoon, en hulle het uiteindelik Pa se familie geword. In daardie dae het neefs en niggies mekaar nog as neef en niggie aangespreek en Pa en Ma was Neef Kok en nig Susan.

Onder die neefs en niggis met wie daar ‘n besondere band was, tel Rademan en Kitty Marx. Piet en Paula du Plooy, Piet en Baby Dannhauser, Hannes en Janie Goosen, Piet en Chrissie Rademan en Paul en Sannie Zietsman. Ek weet dat toe die berig deurgekom het van die motorongeluk waarin Paul en Sannie en hulle kinders betrokke was, Pa in die nag in sy kar geklim het en deurgery het Kroonstad toe om te gaan hulp verleen.

Oupa Eben en die Politiek

Pa was van huis uit ‘n Sap – Lid van die Verenigde Party – Oupa Jan was ‘n Smuts aanganger as gevolg van sy deelname aan diie Boereoorlog en Oupa Giel en Ouma Santjie was ook Sappe. Toe ek skool toe is in 1949 was dit net ‘n jaar Nadat die Nasinale Party aan bewind gekom het en as ‘n Sap was jy nêrens welkom nie en nêrens gereken nie. Maatjies wie se ouers Nasionaliste was, het nie graag met jou gespeel nie, want jy is beskou as ‘n Volksverraier.

Oupa het ‘n Sap gebly tot die dag van sy dood en was oortuig daarvan dat die Nasionale party met sy Apartheidsbeleid, die ondergang van Suid Afrika sou beteken. Die dag met Gen. Smuts se begrafnis in Pretoria, is Pa en oupa Giel dou voor dag op die plaas weg om in Pretoria te gaan eer betoon aan die Generaal as sy lykstoet verby gekom het waar hulle langs die straat gestaan het.

Oupa Eben as Kerkmens

Gegewe die huis waarin hy groot geword het, was Pa ‘n baie getroue Kerkmens. Vandat ek my verstand gekry het, het ek geweet Sondag gaan jy kerk toe en na kerk gaan jy Sondagskool toe. Dit het die gronslag vir my eie geloof gelê en van kleins af het ek geweet ek wil soos Oupa Jan ook eendag ‘n predikant word.

Die predikante van Vredefort was huisvriende en veral hy en Dr AMH Koornof was baie goeie vriende en ons het baie oor en weer gekuier.

Pa het baie termyne as diaken in die gemeente op Vredefort gedien en later ook as ouderling. Dit was ‘n voorreg om hom, toe hy ouderling was, ‘n wyksbiduur te hoor lei waar die preek wat in Die Kerkbode gepubliseer is, voorgelees is. Veral was dit mooi om te luister hoe hy die liedere wat gesing is, ingesit het, Hy het ‘n pragtige tenoorstem gehad en het graag gesing terwyl hy gewerk het. As kerkraadslid was Pa baie betrokke by die Sendingkommissie van die kerkraad en die blanke Sendelinge wat in Vredefort gewerk het was ook huisvriende en het gereeld buitedienste op die plaas kom hou. Hier dink ek aan mense soos Eerwaarde Breedt, Eerwaarde Smit en Eerwaarde Haasbroek.

Oupa Eben as Gemeenskapsmens

Eben Kok het die gemeenskap van Vredefort op baie maniere gedien. Daar is jaarliks ‘n landbouskou op Vredefort gehou. Hier rondom die jare 1958 – 1960 was Oupa die president van die Skoukomitee en het ook hierdie rol met onderskeiding vervul.

Oupa Eben, die einde van ‘n era

Pa sterf op 21 Februarie 1981 aan ‘n hartaanval – ‘n hartblok, soos dit op sy doodsertifikaat geskryf is – in die spreekkamer van hulle huisdokter, Wilby Turten op Vredefort.

Hy was relatief ‘n gesonde mens maar enkele jare voor sy dood het hy geweldig las gehad van nierstene. So beland hy omtrent ‘n jaar voor sy dood in Die Zuid Afrikaanse Hospitaal in Pretoria met ‘n niersteen wat hulle nie kon uitkry nie. In daardie dae was daar nognie die moderne tegnieke van vandag nie en hulle besluit uiteindelik om die niersteen deur middel van ‘n operasie te verwyder. Toe hy in die teater op die operasietafel lê, kry hy sy eerste hartaanval.

Ek het deurgery van Warmbad af om hom te gaan besoek. Hy het altyd, as hy oor die politeik gepraat het gesê dat hy hoop as die anderskleuriges die beheer in die land oorneem moet hy al liewer by die groot klomp in die hemel wees. Toe ek hom daarna vra in die hospitaal was sy eerlike antwoord: “As ‘n mens daar kom, dink jy anders daaroor”.

Ek was bevoorreg om sy begrafnisdiens te hou met Openbaring 14: 13 teks – “Geseënd is die wat van nou af in die Here sterwe. Ja sê die Gees: Hulle sal rus van hulle arbeid, want alles wat hulle gedoen het, volg hulle”.

In honour of him, I will continue to make it with his recipe.

(c)  Eben van Tonder en JW Kok

Counting Nitrogen Atoms – Part 2: Von Liebig and Gerard Mulder’s theory of proteins

Counting Nitrogen Atoms – The History of Determining Total Meat Content
Part 2:  Von Liebig and Gerard Mulder’s theory of proteins
By Eben van Tonder
25 September 2018

Previous Installments in Counting Nitrogen Atoms

Part 1: From the start of the Chemical Revolution to Boussingault

Summary

More men and women who led us to the theory of proteins, understanding their metabolism, digestion, characteristics and how to manipulate them followed the work from the 1600s and 1700s.  Few others had such a profound impact on the progression of the concept of protein and understanding its metabolism than Justus von Liebig.  This chapter mainly deals with his contributions, but also that of DaltonWöhler, Berzelius, and Mulder.

John Dalton (1766 – 1844)  – developed the atomic theory.

Friedrich Wöhler (1800 – 1882) – In 1828 he was able to synthesise urea.

Justus von Liebig (1803 – 1873) – studied protein metabolism and placed it on the firm chemical basis;  father of agricultural chemistry.

Wöhler, in collaboration with Liebig, developed the organic chemistry concept that a common radical that would combine with other reagents, but still retain its own nature and be recoverable by further reactions.

Jöns Jacob Berzelius (1779 – 1848) coined the term nitrogen and suggested it to Mulder on 10 July 1838.

Gerard Mulder (1802–1880) – in 1839 established the basic nitrogenous component of a number of organic compounds (fibrin, egg albumin, gluten, etc.) to contain  ~16% nitrogen.   It is the basis of the calculation N x 6.25 (1/0.16 = 6.25) to convert nitrogen content into protein content.  He used the term protein to refer to a protein radical.

In 1842 Liebig also contributed to the study of protein metabolism by drawing attention to urea as an end-product of protein breakdown in the body.

Liebig at first embraces the concept, but after contradictory laboratory results, he rejected the theory in its current form in 1847 (English publication).  The concept of a protein radical disappeared from literature, but the concept of protein as the basic building block of nature and the name were retained.

Despite the fact that almost all his theories have been disproven in subsequent years, Liebig made immense contributions in advancing the study of protein metabolism.

Introduction

In bacon production, one determines the total meat content as follows.  Assume you start with 100kg of meat and inject 20L brine.

Meat weight:  100kg
Brine added:  + 20L (100kg becomes 120kg; added through injection/ tumbling)
Loose 10% in cooking/ smoking: – 12kg (120kg becomes 108kg)
Freezing loss of -1%: – 1.08kg yields total bacon ready for slicing: 106.92kg.

Divide the meat weight you started with by the end weight after processing (100/106.92) = 93.52% total meat content.

According to SA regulations, bacon must be at least 95% total meat content.

One doesn’t lose proteins during steam cooking. Only during water cooking. In the older literature on the subject, when they talk about curing, they mean salt only curing as in dry-curing and in this process, there is a loss of proteins (if done in the traditional way of turning the meat every day and allowing the extracted meat juices to run off). If one, however, cooks the bacon, as in Australia, during the cooking step, fat will melt and drip off. Exactly how much fat is lost is determined through analysis. I am sure the % is small, but surprising results are obtained through analysis.

It will impact the calculation since total meat is defined as lean meat plus fat. Meat weight after the actually visible fat has been trimmed off x 0.9 is a good approximation to determine actual lean meat content. All meat contains fat that can not be seen. Without it, meat will be completely un-edible. Two further ratios we want to become familiar with are the ratio of percentage protein nitrogen to lean meat % being N x 30 = lean meat % and the nitrogen to protein factor which is 6.25 meaning N x 6.25 = total protein.

These ratios are important for meat processors.   Let’s look at our calculation again which we used above.  Note that they only achieve total meat content of 93% in their bacon and they need to have it at 95% or above.  They can now do the following:

Meat weight:  100kg
Brine added:  + 20L (100kg becomes 120kg; added through injection)

In the tumbling stage, add 1kg of pork protein (80% actual protein – the other 20% will be a filler).  Of course, various levels of functionality are commercially available and one must inquire of what the actual protein percentage is to complete the calculation.  This means that the nitrogen added in our example of a product with an 80% functionality is 80% x 1kg = 0.800kg protein / 6.25 – the nitrogen-to-protein ratio to give us the weight of the protein nitrogen x 30 – the protein-to-lean-meat factor = 3.84kg lean meat. In other words, by adding 800g functional protein, they have effectively added 3.84kg to the starting meat weight as lean meat.  There is no fat since the added functional pork proteins do not contain fat.

They can then use their starting ratio as 100kg + 3.84kg = 103.84 which, after injection and tumbling (R100kg plus 20L water less smoking loss) will yield them 108kg.  Dividing the meat weight you started with by the end weight after processing is now 103.84/ 108 = 96.1% total meat content which, if this is in SA, places you well within the legal requirements for bacon.

For those interested in having this in a live spreadsheet I include this sheet, courtesy of Dr Francois Mellett. ED2-8 Cost op Protein, LME, and TME.  Here he compares the cost of different protein sources and uses the conversion factor of 4.8 to move between % protein and TME/ LME.  He derives his conversion factor of 4.8 to move between % protein and LME eqw as follows:  The two equations he works with are:

Protein Nitrogen x 6.25 = Proteins

Percentage Lean Meat = (Percentage Protein Nitrogen × 30 )

Let’s take TVP Soy with a protein content of 50%.  Therefore:

Protein Nitrogen x 6.25 = 50%; Protein Nitrogen % = 50%/6.25 = 8

Percentage Lean Meat = (8 × 30 ) = 240/100 = 2.4.

The same can be achieved by the factor 30/6.25 = 4.8; 4.8 x 50% = 250/100 = 2.4

A very small added benefit for the producer will be that the protein added representing 3.84kg lean meat will be cheaper than the actual meat.  There is, therefore, no financial downside for the producer.  The producer is limited in how much of the protein can be added since it will start to affect the appearance and colour of the bacon.  My suspicion is that in countries like Australia, more can be added due to the fact that the bacon is sold fully cooked which yields a paler bacon as opposed to South African producers where the bacon is sold par-cooked and have a much brighter reddish-pinkish appearance. Adding protein, I suspect, will, therefore, have less of an impact in Australia compared to South Africa. I will not be surprised if some Australian producers add a lot more non-meat and meat protein alike and therefore inject more brine.

The reality is that actual food legislation in Australia and New Zealand allows for a slightly different approach which we will look at in detail in the next article. For now, it is enough that we start interacting with some of the values we encounter as we learn how they were discovered.

We continue our fascinating journey by looking at the contribution of a formidable man, Justus von Liebig during whose time, protein was identified and named.  We also encounter our first ratio when Mulder estimated that meat proteins contain 16% nitrogen (N).  By multiplying the nitrogen content by 100/16, the protein content is estimated. Therefore, nitrogen x 6.25 is the protein content.

Justus von Liebig

Justus von Liebig’s father was a chemical manufacturer and had a small laboratory attached to his shop.  Here Justus loved performing experiments and an exceptional life was inspired.  After studying pharmacy, he received a doctorate from the University of Erlangen in Bavaria in 1822.  The Grand Duke of Hesse-Darmstadt and his ministers noticed him and funded his further studies in chemistry under Joseph-Louis Gay-Lussac in Paris between 1822 and 1824.  Gay-Lussac himself found all plant seeds “contain a principle abounding in azote.”  It was, in Paris when a meeting with Alexander von Humboldt, according to him, set his career on the path it took.  Thus far, it was the French chemists who were responsible for the progression of protein metabolism.

Humboldt arranged an appointment for Liebig at the small University of Giessen in May 1824. Liebig wrote about this appointment  that “at a larger university, or in a larger place, my energies would have been divided and dissipated, and it would have been much more difficult, perhaps impossible, to reach the goal at which I aimed.”

Applying the techniques that he learned under Gay-Lussac he changed the face of organic chemistry and became the father of agricultural chemistry. With this, the advance in our understanding of protein metabolism shifted to Germany.

“In Giessen, Liebig built up the most thriving school of organic chemistry than in existence, and he perceived that his studies could be logically extended to the chemistry of the living body. His book “Thierchemie in Ihrer Aufwendung auf Physio logie” appeared in 1840, and an English edition entitled “Animal Chemistry, or Organic Chemistry in its Applications to Physiology and Pathology” was published in 1842. Liebig’s main contribution to the study of protein metabolism was to point to its chemical basis, a contribution he was well fitted to make through his training in France and his own studies in organic chemistry. His views on various aspects of protein metabolism can be assessed by quoting some passages from his books. In “Animal Chemistry” (1842), he writes (p. 40):

“… If we hold that increase of mass in the animal body, that development of its organs, and the supply of waste, — that all this is dependent on the blood, that is, on the ingredients of the blood, then only those substances can properly be called nutritious and considered as food which is capable of conversion into blood. To determine, therefore, what substances are capable of affording nourishment, it is only necessary to ascertain the composition of the food, and to compare it with that of the ingredients of the blood. Two substances require special consideration as the chief ingredients of the blood: . . . fibrine, which is identical in all its properties with muscular fiber, when the latter is purified from all foreign matters. The second principal ingredient of the blood is contained in the serum and gives to this liquid all the properties of the white of eggs, with which it is identical. When heated, it coagulates into a white elastic mass, and the coagulating substance is called albumen. Fibrine and albumen, the chief ingredients of blood, contain, in all, seven chemical constituents, among which nitrogen, phosphorus, and sulphur are found. . . . Chemical analysis has led to the remarkable result that fibrine and albumen contain the same organic elements united in the same proportion…. In these two ingredients of blood the particles are arranged in a different order, as shown by the difference of their external properties; but in chemical composition in the ultimate proportion of the organic elements, they are identical. . . . Both albumen and fibrine, in the process of nutrition, are capable of being converted into muscular fiber, and muscular fiber is capable of being reconverted into blood. . . . All part of the animal body which have a decided shape, which forms parts of organs, contain nitrogen; all of them likewise contain carbon and the elements of water.

The most convincing experiments and observations have proved that the animal body is absolutely incapable of producing an elementary body, such as carbon or nitrogen, out of substances which do not contain it; it obviously follows, that all kinds of food fit for the production either of blood, or of cellular tissue, membranes, skin, hair, muscular fiber, etc. must contain a certain amount of nitrogen, because that element is essential to the composition of the above-named organs; because the organs cannot create it from the other elements presented to them; and, finally, because no nitrogen is absorbed from the atmosphere in the vital process.

The nutritive process in the Carnivora is seen in its simplest form. This class of animals lives on the blood and flesh of the graminivora; but this blood and flesh is, in all its properties, identical with their own. . . . In a chemical sense, therefore, it may be said that a carnivorous animal, in supporting the vital process, consumes itself. That which serves for its nutrition is identical with those parts of its organisation which are to be renewed. The process of nutrition in graminivorous animals appears at first sight altogether different. Their digestive organs are less simple, and their food constituents consist of vegetables, the great mass of which contains but little nitrogen. … Chemical researches have shown, that all such parts of vegetables as can afford nutriment to animals contain certain constituents which are rich in nitrogen; and the most ordinary experience proves that animals require for their support and nutrition less of these parts of plants in proportion as they abound in the nitrogenised constituents. Animals cannot be fed on matters destitute of these nitrogenised constituents. . . . These nitrogenised forms of nutriment in the vegetable kingdom may be reduced to three substances, which are easily distinguished by their external characters. Two of them are soluble in water. The third is insoluble.”

He then proceeds to recognize a vegetable fibrin, vegetable albumin and vegetable casein similar in properties to these animal products, and goes on to comment (p. 48):  “How beautifully and admirably simple, with the aid of these discoveries, appears the process of nutrition in animals, the formation of their organs, in which vitality chiefly resides! Those vegetable principles, which in animals are used to form blood, contain the chief constituents of blood, fibrine and albumen, ready formed, as far as regards their composition. . . . From what has been said, it follows that the development of the animal organism and its growth is dependent on the reception of certain principles identical with the chief constituents of blood.”

Liebig summarizes his views on the role of nitrogen in nutrition as follows (p. 95): . . . “According to what has been laid down in the preceding pages, the substances of which the food of man is composed may be divided into two classes; into nitrogenised and non-nitrogenised. The former is capable of conversion into blood; the latter incapable of this transformation. Out of those substances which are adapted to the formation of blood are formed all the organised tissues. The other class of substances, in the normal state of health, serve to support the process of respiration. The former may be called the plastic elements of nutrition; the latter, elements of respiration. Among the former, we reckon—vegetable fibrine, vegetable albumen, vegetable caseine, animal flesh, animal blood. Among the elements of respiration in our food are—fat, starch, gum, cane sugar, grape sugar, sugar of milk, pectine, bassorine, wine, beer, spirits.”

These comments do not add appreciably to the concepts which Magendie had propounded 25 years before. It will be particularly noted that Liebig had no conception of the possibility of digestion and reconstruction of proteins taken in the diet.”  (Munro and Allison, 1964)

“Liebig and his students also applied oxidizing agents such as manganese dioxide and chromic acid during acid hydrolysis of proteins, thus obtaining and identifying a series of acids and aldehydes. The idea of studying the degradation products of protein, which was to play such an important role in the next generation, stems from Liebig’s imaginative genius.”  (Sahyun, M. (Editor). 1948)

The atomic theory

“Another important advance in chemistry was taking place that would be put to use in subsequent nutritional studies. John Dalton, a poor and largely self-educated schoolmaster in the north of England, had an important idea. This was that all elements are made up of indivisible particles, or “atoms,” and that for each element every atom is identical. Chemical combination occurs when two or more different atoms form a firm union. These ideas were supported by the proportions of different elements in any compound being fixed and by the different compounds between the same two elements being in simple ratios by weight. Thus the gas we call “carbon dioxide” has exactly twice the weight of oxygen (per unit weight of carbon) that is present in the other gas called “carbon monoxide.” Finally, gases were found to combine in simple relations by volume. Thus 3 volumes of hydrogen combine with 1 volume of nitrogen to form exactly 2 volumes of ammonia gas. From this it also follows that equal volumes of different gases contain the same numbers of molecules, once one accepts that many elements, such as hydrogen, oxygen and nitrogen, have two atoms combined together to form a single molecule.

For some years there was controversy as to whether carbon and oxygen each had one-half of the atomic weights that are now assigned to them, although it is easy to correct molecular formulas obtained in that period. Thus Prout, in England, subjected urea to improved methods of analysis and obtained a molecular formula of C2H4N2O2, which agrees with the modern formula of CH4N2O when we double the atomic weights for C and O.

In the following decade, Friedrich Wöhler in Germany found that he had obtained urea by heating silver cyanate with ammonium chloride. He wrote excitedly to his former professor: “I can make urea without the use of kidneys.” Admittedly, urea was only an excretion product, but the synthesis was one small step in demonstrating that an organic compound produced in living systems could also be produced in the laboratory without the aid of any “vital force.”

Wöhler, in collaboration with Liebig, also developed an important concept in organic chemistry. This was the idea of a common radical that would combine with other reagents, but still retain its own nature and be recoverable by further reactions. The first example was the “benzoyl” radical. Starting with benzaldehyde, one could oxidize it to benzoic acid or form a chlorinated derivative, and so on, and then reproduce the original benzaldehyde by appropriate reduction.”  (Carpenter, 2003)

Gerard Mulder and the nature of animal substance

The Dutch chemist Gerard Mulder (1802–1880) had published a paper in a Dutch journal in 1838 and this was reprinted in 1839 in the Journal für praktische Chemie. Mulder had examined a series of nitrogen-rich organic compounds, including fibrin, egg albumin, gluten, etc., and had concluded that they all contained a basic nitrogenous component (~16%)  to which he gave the name of “protein” (Munro and Allison, 1964) from a Greek term implying that it was the primary material of the animal kingdom.

The term protein was coined by Jöns Jacob Berzelius, and suggested it to Mulder who was the first one to use it in a published article. (Bulletin des Sciences Physiques et Naturelles en Néerlande (1838); Hartley, Harold (1951) “Ueber die Zusammensetzung einiger thierischen Substanzen” 1839)). Berzelius suggested the word to Mulder in a letter from Stockholm on 10 July 1838. (Vickery, H, B, 1950)

Mulder also suggested using the symbol “Pr” for the radical, that egg albumin could be expressed as “Pr10 · SP” and serum albumin as “Pr10 · S2P,” and that the radical itself had the molecular formula “C40H62N10O12.  (Carpenter, 2003)

“”This common nucleus was united to phosphorus and sulfur to give the various compounds referred to above. “Die organische Substanz, welche in allen Bestandtheilen des thier ischen Körpers, so wie auch, wie wir bald sehen, im Pflanzenreiche Vorkommt, könnte Protein von Tporetos primarius, genannt werden. Der Faserstoff und Eiweissstoff der Eierhaben also die Formel Pr + SP, der Eiweissstoff des Serums Pr + SP.” (The organic substance which is found in all the constituents of the animal body, as well as, as we shall soon see, in the vegetable kingdom, might be called protein of Tporetos primarius. The fiber and protein of the eggs thus have the formula Pr + SP, the protein of the serum Pr + SP)  (Munro and Allison, 1964)

“This concept was seized upon by Liebig, who elaborated it thus (p. 104): “… When animal albumen, fibrine, and caseine are dissolved in a moderately strong solution of caustic potash, and the solution is exposed for some time to a high temperature, these substances are decomposed. The addition of acetic acid to the solution causes, in all three, the separation of a gelatinous translucent precipitate, which has exactly the same characters and composition, from whichever of the three substances above mentioned it has been obtained. Mulder, to whom we owe the discovery of this compound, found, by exact and careful analysis, that it contains the same organic elements, and exactly the same proportion, as the animal matters from which it is prepared; insomuch, that if we deduct from the analysis of albumen, fibrine, and caseine, the ashes they yield, when incinerated, as well as the sulphur and phosphorus they contain, and then calculate the remainder for 100 parts, we obtain the same result as in the analysis of the precipitate above described, prepared by potash, which is free from inorganic matter.”  (Munro and Allison, 1964)

Viewed in this light, the chief constituents of the blood and the caseine of milk may be regarded as compounds of phosphates and other salts, and of sulphur and phosphorus, with a compound of carbon, nitrogen, and oxygen, in which the relative proportion of these elements is invariable; and this compound may be considered as the commencement and starting-point of all other animal tissues because these are all produced from the blood. . . . Mulder further ascertained, that the insoluble nitrogenised constituent of wheat flour (vegetable fibrine), when treated with potash, yields the very same product, protein; and it has recently been proved that vegetable albumen and casein are acted on by potash as animal albumen and casein are. The true starting-point for all the tissues is, consequently albumen; all nitrogenised articles of food, whether derived from the animal or from the vegetable kingdom, are converted into albumen before they can take part in the process of nutrition.”

Liebig then (p. 131), like Mulder, ascribes the formula C4s H36N6O14 to protein, and albumen becomes C18H38N6014 + P + S, fibrine is C48E36. N6014 + P + 2 S, and so on. Liebig continued to explore the field of protein chemistry and eventually came to reject Mulder’s original concept of the nucleus of “protein.”

He sets forth his arguments against Mulder at some length in his book “Researches on the Chemistry of Food,” published in an English edition in 1847. Here Liebig indicates that several chemists were unable to repeat some of Mulder’s basic experiments and that his formulas for fibrin, albumin, etc., as compounds of protein with sulfur and phosphorus in specific relations, do not agree with the results of more recent analyses of these substances. In this, he conveniently forgets his own earlier enthusiasm for Mulder’s view and says (p. 18): “… A theoretical view in natural science is never absolutely true, it is only true for the period during which it prevails; it is the nearest and most exact expression of the knowledge and the observations of that period. It ceases to be true for a later period, inasmuch as a number of newly acquired facts can no longer be included in it. . . . But the case is very different with the so-called protein theory, which cannot be regarded as one of the theoretical views just mentioned, since, being supported by observations both erroneous in themselves and misinterpreted as to their significance, it had no foundation in itself, and was never regarded, by those intimately acquainted with its chemical groundwork, as an expression of the knowledge of a given period.” (Munro and Allison, 1964). “Mulder was enraged by the tone of the criticism from Liebig, who was now denying what he himself had previously asserted.” (Carpenter, 2003)

“In the midst of this destructive criticism, however, Liebig is constructive enough to suggest the lines along which research has ultimately resolved the structure of the protein molecule.

He says (p. 27) : … The study of the products, which caseine yields when acted on by concentrated hydrochloric acid, of which, as Bopp had found, Tyrosine and Leucine constitute the chief part, and the accurate determination of the products which the blood constituents, caseine, and gelatine, yield when oxidised, among which the most remarkable are oil of bitter almonds, butyric acid, aldehyde, butyric aldehyde, valerianic acid, valeronitrile, and valeracetonitrile, have opened up a new and fertile field of research into numberless relations of the food to the digestive process, and into the action of remedies in morbid conditions.” (Munro and Allison, 1964)

“It is ironical to think that, in using the word “protein” to denote the most important class of body constituents, we are commemorating an erroneous oversimplification of protein structure, and furthermore are using the word in a meaning different from that originally intended. It is significant that the German word for protein, as English-speaking people now use the word, is “Eiweiss.” This may well be a tribute to Liebig’s eventual rejection of Mulder’s hypothesis.” (Munro and Allison, 1964). Dennis M Bier states that despite these nuances, Berzelius and Mulder were, in the most basic analysis, right: “Protein is the essential general principle of the constituents of the animal body. Thus, one might briefly summarize the physiological roles of protein in metabolism as “responsible for just about everything.” (Bier, D. M., 1999). The concept of a protein radical disappeared from the literature and the term “Protein” gradually began to be applied to all the materials previously described as “animal substance.”   (Carpenter, 2003)

Is Protein the only true nutrient?

In his book, Animal Chemistry or Organic Chemistry in its Application to Physiology and Pathology, Liebig argued that, “because his analyses of muscles failed to show the presence of any fat or carbohydrate, the energy needed for their contraction must come from an explosive breakdown of the protein molecules themselves, resulting in the production and excretion of urea. Protein was therefore the only true nutrient, providing both the machinery of the body and the fuel for its work.

If that was true, what role was left for the other constituents of the diet, and why did carbonic acid production increase so greatly during exercise? Liebig’s explanation was that increased respiration was needed to keep the heart and other tissues from overheating. However, this, unfortunately, led to more oxygen gaining access to the tissues, which could cause oxidative damage and loss of protein tissue. It was the function of the fats and carbohydrates to mop up this excess by being themselves preferentially oxidized.

Liebig’s book was at first generally regarded as a giant intellectual synthesis, and many people were converted to his ideas. For example, when the Professor of Medicine at Edinburgh University was called in to investigate a serious and unexpected outbreak of scurvy in a Scottish prison, his immediate conclusion was that it must be the result of an inadequate intake of protein. However, his calculations indicated that the average daily protein intake was an ample 135 g. But only 15 g of this quantity were from animal sources and 102 g were from gluten.

He suggested that the power of the body to convert gluten to animal protein was limited and that the level of milk in the diet should be increased so as to raise the intake of animal protein.

Another Scottish physician replied that the value of lemon juice in the prevention of scurvy was well established and could not possibly be attributed to its protein content, given that a curative dose contained only a negligible amount of nitrogen.

Another difficulty in believing that muscular work required the breakdown of protein was that the traditional diet of labourers was of lower protein content than of the less active rich. Edward Smith, a British physician and physiologist who was interested in the welfare of prisoners, and was concerned at the stressfulness of their having to work on a treadmill, measured their urea excretion in the 24 h during and after their 8 h of work, and again on their subsequent rest days, and found no difference. This was, of course, quite contrary to what Liebig would have predicted on the basis that the energy expended all came from the breakdown of protein that resulted in the production of urea.”  (Carpenter, 2003)

Liebig and Urine

“Liebig also contributed to the study of protein metabolism by drawing attention to urea as an end-product of protein breakdown in the body. Here again, however, he appears to have been the author of some misconceptions, for in his “Animal Chemistry” (1842), (p. 62) he says: “… We know that the urine of dogs, fed for three weeks exclusively on pure sugar, contains as much of the most highly nitrogenised constituent, urea, as in the normal condition. Differences in the quantity of urea secreted in these and similar experiments are explained by the condition of the animal in regard to the amount of the natural motions permitted. Every motion increases the amount of organised tissue which undergoes metamorphosis. Thus, after a walk, the secretion of urine in man is invariably increased.

Later (p. 245), he says: “The amount of tissue metamorphosed in a given time may be measured by the quantity of nitrogen in the urine.” This statement reflects Liebig’s view that protein in muscle was the fuel for muscular exercise, and he believed that the nitrogenous components of the diet must first be converted to living tissue before being broken down to yield urea. “There can be no greater contradiction, with regard to the nutritive process, than to suppose that the nitrogen of the food can pass into the urine as urea, without having previously become part of an organized tissue.” (p. 144).” (Munro and Allison, 1964)

Liebig’s Contribution to Protein Metabolism

“It may appear in these quotations from Liebig’s writings that he did not contribute much of permanent value to the study of protein metabolism. This is not so. Through his vigorous application of organic analysis to compounds of biological interest, of which he identified several, he laid the foundations of intermediary metabolism and made advances possible for his successors. Thus, although he did not resolve any major problems, he pointed the way to their ultimate solution. Of intermediary metabolism, he says prophetically (“Researches on the Chemistry of Food,” (1847) p. 10): “The intermediary members of the almost infinite series of compounds which must connect Urea and Uric acid with the constituents of the food, are, with the exception of a few products derived from the bile, almost entirely unknown to us; and yet each individual member of this series, considered by itself, inasmuch as it subserves certain vital purposes, must be of the utmost importance in regard to the explanation of the vital processes, or of the action of remedies.”

He was also aware that some chemical reactions only occur in biological systems and suspected that these were dependent on the presence of proteins. The following passage (p. 7) from his book on food chemistry shows how close he comes to our modern concept of enzymes:  …There is, probably, no fact more firmly established as to its chemical signification, than this, that the chief constituents of the animal body, albumen, fibrine, the gelatinous tissues, and caseous matter, when their elements are in a state of motion, that is, of separation, exert on all substances which serve as food for men and animals, a defined action, the visible sign of which is a chemical alteration of the substance brought in contact with them. That the elements of sugar, of sugar of milk, or starch, etc., in contact with the sulphurised and nitrogenised constituents of the body, or with analogous compounds which occur in plants, when these are in a state of decomposition, are subjected to a new arrangement and that new products are formed from them, most of which cannot be produced by chemical affinities, this is a fact, independent of all theory.”

Finally, Liebig contributed to the development of protein metabolism by founding a school of biochemical studies, first in Giessen, and later in Munich, where he became professor of chemistry in 1852. From this school emerged a number of distinguished exponents of metabolism, chief among them being Carl Voit, whose researches in protein metabolism placed the concept of nitrogen balance on a firm footing.

He too had become interested in the subject of “animal chemistry,” and wrote that Dumas must be wrong because it was well known that pigs would fatten when fed on potatoes that were rich in starch, but contained only a negligible level of fat. This meant that animals must be able to convert carbohydrates to fat even though the conversion required “reduction” rather than oxidation.

This was a challenge to the French workers who had been the undisputed authorities in the field, and Boussingault put the matter to the test in another pioneering study. He killed and analyzed the carcass of a young pig, while feeding a littermate of the same starting weight on measured amounts of feed for an additional 3 months. Carcass analysis of the second pig showed that it contained an additional 13.6 kg fat, whereas the feed it had eaten had only contained 6.8 kg.

This careful work had therefore shown that the French school was in the wrong on this point. Boussingault and Dumas both retired from working with animals, and Liebig became the new authority, even though he had never actually carried out a feeding trial. He continued to push his ideas on physiology and nutrition. Most of these were gradually shown to have been completely wrong, but at least they stimulated others to do research, putting them to the test.”  (Munro and Allison, 1964)

Conclusion

Neither Mulder nor Liebig illuminated protein or its metabolism fully, but we gain a great appreciation for the work done by these men in the early 1800s. I wonder how many of today’s researchers would do as much as these men did with the scant knowledge they had.

Nitrogen, key to the art of bacon curing takes front and centre stage in the formulation of the theory of animal proteins and nutrition. It becomes essential, not just in preserving meat, but in defining it. Its chemistry is important, not just to meat processing, but to life itself. It is astounding to recognize a man like Edward Smith as a contemporary of Liebig who would pen one of the most authoritative works on food and nutrition.

The development of the art of meat curing and understanding its chemistry and processes is intimately connected to our most basic understanding of life itself.


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References:

Bier, D. M.; The Energy Costs of Protein Metabolism: Lean and Mean on Uncle Sam’s Team, Protein and Amino Acids, 1999, Pp. 109-119. Washington, D.C., National Academy Press

Bulletin des Sciences Physiques et Naturelles en Néerlande (1838). pg 104. SUR LA COMPOSITION DE QUELQUES SUBSTANCES ANIMALES.

Carpenter, K. J.; A Short History of Nutritional Science: Part 1 (1785–1885), The Journal of Nutrition, Volume 133, Issue 3, 1 March 2003, Pages 638–645, https://doi.org/10.1093/jn/133.3.638

Hartley, Harold (1951). “Origin of the Word ‘Protein. Nature 168(4267): 244–244. Bibcode 1951Natur.168..244Hdoi10.1038/168244a0.

Munro, H. N., and Allison, J. B..  1964.  Mammalian Protein Metabolism.   Academic Press.

Vickery, H, B; The origin of the word protein” Yale journal of biology and medicine vol. 22,5 (1950): 387-93.

“Ueber die Zusammensetzung einiger thierischen Substanzen”. Journal für Praktische Chemie (in German).16: 129–152. 1839.doi10.1002/prac.18390160137

Featured Image: Venison Sausage Catalan Style, Robert Goodrick.

Counting Nitrogen Atoms – Part 1: From the start of the Chemical Revolution to Boussingault

Counting Nitrogen Atoms – The History of Determining Total Meat Content
Part 1:  From the start of the Chemical Revolution to Boussingault
By Eben van Tonder
25 September 2018

Summary

We trace the development of the understanding of nitrogen, its prevalence, nature and its role in plant and animal nutrition. If we produce a sausage, for example, what is the percentage of fat and meat that it must contain for us to be able to call it a pork sausage? What are the threshold values for the contained fat and connective tissues? How much fillers are we allowed to add?  What must we declare on the food label?  Tracking the meat content, as we will see, is measuring proteins and proteins are counted by measuring the amount of nitrogen.  How this came about now becomes our focus.

The manipulation of proteins is nothing new.  It has been with us for millennia. The domain belonged exclusively to artisan guilds through the middle ages and back into antiquity. The weavers of silk and wool, bakers, cheese makers, tanners, and the meat curers all made their living through the manipulation of protein. As the chemical revolution started to unfold and exploding human populations placed greater demands on food production, its safe storage, and transportation for trade, new artisans emerged who plied their trade, not only based on age-old traditions but predicated on newly developed techniques and analytical methods. These men contributed to what was seen as “natural food” and a “natural analysis” of reality as opposed to the mythical approach of alchemy and the secretive methods of the ancient artisans.

Where appropriate and possible, I highlight the people who made significant contributions and attempt to frame these people within the wider context they lived in.

Robert Boyle (1627-1691) – did important reports on the production of bone gelatin.

Bartolomeo Beccari (1682-1766) – the preparation of gluten, the protein portion of wheat flour; he characterized the starchy material of flour that would ferment to give acid spirits indicating its “vegetable nature.” In contrast, the gluten was of “animal nature” for “within a few days it gets sour,  rots and very stinkingly putrifies like a dead body.”

Joseph Black (1728–1799) – discovered carbon dioxide.  In 1756 – isolate gaseous ammonia by reacting sal ammoniac with calcined magnesia.

Charl Wilhelm Scheele (1742 – 1786) – the first scientist to describe the characteristics of oxygen and nitrogen.

Claude Louis Bertholett (1748 – 1822) – in 1781 became aware that something joined with hydrogen to form ammonia.

Daniel Rutherford (1749–1819) – identified and named nitrogen, “aer malignus.”

Joseph Priestly (1733 – 1804)  – the discoverer of oxygen (1774 – 1775) and identified nitrogen (but did not name it).

Jean Antoine Claude Chaptal (1756 – 1832) – named azote, nitrogen in 1790.

Henry Cavendish (1731 – 1810) – in 1766, discovered hydrogen.

Hilaire Marin Rouelle (1718 – 1779) – in 1773 identified urea in urine, the key to understanding protein metabolism.

Torbern Bergman (1735 – 1784) – in 1782 names ammonia.

Claude Berthollet (1748 – 1822) – in 1785 reported that the vapour from decomposing animal carcasses contained ammonia.

Louis Proust (1754-1826) – improved the methods of gelatine manufacture.

Antoine-Laurent de Lavoisier (1743 – 1794) – in 1790 describes experiments on the respiration of human subjects which shows that nitrogen is “absolutely useless in the act of respiration, and it appears from the lung in the same quantity and quality that it has entered it.” His may be regarded as the first metabolic experiment with nitrogen.

Joseph Louis Gay-Lussac (1778 – 1850) – developed a new method for the identification and measurement of nitrogen.

François Magendie (1783–1855) – in 1816 became the first to recognise that there is a major difference between the nutritional value of food containing nitrogen and those without it.

He also examined the nutritive value of gelatine and reported on it in 1842.

Jean-Louis Prévost (1790-1850) and Jean Baptiste André Dumas (1800 – 1884) – showed in 1823 that urea was not synthesized by the kidneys and suggested the liver as the site of its formation.

John Gorham (1783-1829) – discovered zein, the protein of corn.

Jean Dumas (1800-1884) – improved on the method developed by Gay-Lussac to analise nitrogen.

Jean Baptiste Boussingault (1801 – 1887) – in 1836 described that it was the nitrogen content in the soil or fertiliser which is important for plant nutrition. He was also the first to conduct a “balance” trial measuring the intake, utilization, and excretion of nitrogen by animals.

– Franz Varrentrapp (1815 – 1877) and H. Will in 1841, developed a total nitrogen method to test for and measure nitrogen.

Johan Kjeldahl (1849-1900) –  in 1883 presented a much-improved method for catalyzed digestion of nitrogenous materials in sulfuric acid which allowed for the production of ammonia quantitatively.

Introduction

A friend of mine from the bacon industry in Castlemaine, Australia recently interacted with me on the matter of total meat content in bacon.  This set about a fascinating line of inquiry and provided an introduction to a missing piece on work related to nitrogen.  In other articles, I looked at the discovery of nitrogen, the nitrogen cycle, the discovery of bacteria responsible for nitrification and, more important for the history of meat curing, denitrification and the subsequent application of this knowledge in identifying nitrite as the curing chemical by Dr Eduard Polenski in 1891 with its derivative of nitric oxide, identified by Haldane in 1901 when he became the first person to demonstrate nitrite is further reduced to nitric oxide (NO) in the presence of muscle myoglobin to form iron-nitrosyl-myoglobin. It is nitrosylated myoglobin that gives cured meat, including bacon and hot dogs, their distinctive red colour and protects the meat from oxidation and spoiling.

What we have not looked at before is nitrogen as a constituent of the meat protein and its nutritional value.  This identification and the subsequent determination of a phenomenally stable nitrogen percentage in meat lead to a number of important applications and implications, among others, a way to determine lean meat content and total meat content in meat processing.  It is interesting that Dr Polenski who first speculated that nitrite (NO2-) is “closer” to the curing reaction than nitrate (NO3-) when he compared the nitrogen content of fresh meat vs processed beef in 1891 in an analysis of the nutritional difference between the two.  We will return to his article.

A good summary of the thinking early in the late 1800s and early 1900s on the subject exists in the South African Food, Drugs and Disinfectants Act No. 13 of 1929 (See note 1).  As an important historical document, it sets out the determination of total meat content.  It essentially remained unchanged (apart from minor updates).

The calculations of total meat content are defined in subparagraph 4 (iv) which reads as follows: “In all cases where it is necessary to calculate total meat under regulations 14 (1), (2), (3) and (4), the formula used shall be:—

Percentage Lean Meat = (Percentage Protein Nitrogen × 30 ).
Percentage Total Meat = (Percentage Lean Meat + Percentage Fat).

The questions of interest are how did they arrive at this and how accurate an indication is it of total meat content?  What is the relationship between nitrogen and nutrition?  When decay takes place, what happens with the nitrogen in the protein?  How does the amount of nitrogen we consume determine the total nitrogen content of our bodies or any animal or plant for that matter?  What is the value of nitrogen to the body which makes it essential for nutrition?  How does nitrogen move from a plant or an animal into our bodies to provide nutrition?  What is the impact of processing on nutrition and the total nitrogen content?  Can the standard calculation for fresh meat be applied to processed products?  Lastly and equally fascinating, what are other sources of nitrogen that can increase the total nitrogen count and skew the nitrogen count in a product and its relationship and to meat content.

This short series of articles set out to deal with these fascinating issues.  In this first article, we will look at the time from the start of the chemical revolution to Boussingault.   Sincere thanks to my friend in Castlemaine, Australia for provoking a fascinating line of inquiry!

Early Identification of Proteins

Long before the term protein was coined, researchers referred to them by different names such as albumins or quaternary azotized substances but recognized them as set apart from the hydrates of carbon and fats by their high content of nitrogen. They found that albumins would undergo putrefaction spontaneously, in contrast to the fermentation characteristic of carbohydrates and that upon destructive heat distillation of these substances, ammonia, or “alkaline air,” was produced. Their insoluble salts with heavy metals such as mercury, silver, and lead were known. The coagulation of blood serum and egg white was recognized and in a general way, the alteration of solubility relations during denaturation had received attention. Haemoglobin was found to contain iron. Fibrin and the azotized principles of milk and cereals had been examined. The fact that these substances had something in common was clear and captured the imagination of researchers.  (Sahyun, M. (Editor),  1948.)

Proteins would play such important roles in the development of the concept of nutritive value.  Gelatine from bones had, for example, been prepared since the days of Robert Boyle (1627-1691) in the seventeenth century. Gelatine’s value as a food source was revived by food scarcity during the French Revolution, at which time Louis Proust (1754-1826) improved the methods of gelatine manufacture. “The famous physician and physiologist Frangois Magendie (1783-1855) served as chairman of the French commission for examining the nutritive value of gelatine in 1842. Zein, the protein of corn, was discovered at Harvard University early in the nineteenth century by John Gorham (1783-1829). Casein was well known because of its occurrence in the food trades for centuries.”  (Sahyun, M. (Editor). 1948)

Discovery of gasses

In the 1770s scientists started to realise that the atmosphere is made up of various gasses.  This was part of the start of the chemical revolution and in a way, the major propellant.  Up to this time, gasses were not regarded as a separate chemical entity and were largely ignored in experimental work. The drawback was major and real advances became only possible as this was being resolved.  One of its pioneers was Joseph Black (1728–1799).  Black is credited with the discovery of carbon dioxide (fixed air).  His first publication on the subject came in 1756 in an expanded form of an address given the year before to an Edinburgh literary society.  (Munro and Allison, 1964)

Robison (1803) quotes Black as saying: “In the same year, however, in which my first account of these experiments was published, I had discovered that this particular kind of air, attracted by alkaline substances, is deadly to all animals that breathe it by mouth and nostrils . . . and I convinced myself that the change produced on wholesome air by breathing it consisted chiefly, if not solely, in the conversion of part of it into fixed air.”  In the same lecture, he said: “Here a new and boundless field seemed open before me. We do not know how many different airs may thus be contained within our atmosphere nor what may be their separate properties.”  It was the first gas to be discovered.  (Munro and Allison, 1964)

The Swedish Chemist, Charl Wilhelm Scheele (1742 – 1786) prepared oxygen by heating saltpetre (KNO3) in 1770.  Somewhere between 1771 and 1772, he became the first scientist to realise that “air consists of two fluids different from each other, the one that does not manifest in the least the property of attracting phlogiston while the other … is peculiarly disposed to such attraction.” (Smil, 2001: 2)   Phlogiston was believed to be the substance present in all material that burns, responsible for combustion. The one substance is obviously oxygen and the other nitrogen.

At the same time, Daniel Rutherford (1749–1819), a pupil of Black, obtained his doctorate in Medicine in 1772 from the University of Edinburgh.  In his “Dissertatio inauguralis de Aere Fixo Dicto, aut Mephitico” (Rutherford, 1772) he records the following experiment in with he placed mice in a closed in environment.  He concluded that if an animal is made to respire in a closed container, it will eventually die and the air that is left is unable to support life or the combustion of a flame.  He then removed the fixed or mephitic air (carbon dioxide) with a caustic potash solution (alkali).  He found a residual gas still incapable of supporting respiration or fire, similar to carbon dioxide, but unlike carbon dioxide, did not precipitate lime water and was not absorbed by the alkali.  He thus discovered a residue of his fixed or mephitic air.  He named it “aer malignus” or noxious air.”  (Munro and Allison, 1964)

Priestly, who is credited for the discovery of oxygen (1774 – 1775) presented experimental evidence similar to Rutherford’s before the Royal Society of London.  He, however, did not draw conclusions regarding the possible nature of the gas (Priestley, 1772).  “The question of priority in the discovery of the new gas has been discussed in considerable detail by McKie (1934), who favors the view that Rutherford has some claim to being the first investigator to recognize nitrogen as an independent substance. He was certainly the first to provide it with a name, “aer malignus.”  (Munro and Allison, 1964)

The identification of nitrogen was “in the air”, so to speak and as we will see, never far removed from meat curing.  Sal Ammoniac (Ammonium Chloride; NH4Cl) was used since antiquity as a curing and preserving agent of meat and was investigated by none other than Joseph Black.  In 1756 he became the first to isolate gaseous ammonia by reacting sal ammoniac with calcined magnesia (Magnesium Oxide). (Black, 1893) (Maurice P. Crosland, 2004).  Scientists were now widely experimenting with gasses and along with air, gasses like ammonia received a great deal of attention.  It would later be discovered that nitrogen is its key constituent along with hydrogen.

Following Black, ammonia was, for example, also isolated again by Peter Woulfe in 1767 (Woulfe), by Carl Wilhelm Scheele in 1770 (kb.osu.edu) and by Joseph Priestley in 1773 and was termed by him “alkaline air”. Eleven years later in 1785, Claude Louis Berthollet ascertained its composition. (Chisholm, 1911) (Berthollet, 1785)

Priestley, in Part II of his work, Experiments and Observations,  described work that he had done between the years 1773 and the beginning of 1774.  In this document, he gives a reprint of an earlier publication on effluvia from putrid marshes.  Here he identifies ammonia and nitrous oxide.  (Schofield, RE.  2004:  98)

His discoveries on ammonia were the result of a consistent application of the English scientist, Stephen Hales’s (1677 – 1761) technique for distilling and fermenting every substance he could get his hands on or capture over mercury rather than over customary water so that the air would “release.”  He heated ammonia water and collected a vapour.  When it cooled down, it did not condense, proving it was air.  He called it alkaline air.  (Schofield, RE.  2004: 98, 103, 104)

More experiments showed him that alkaline air was heavier than common inflammable air but lighter than acid air.   It dissolved easily in water, producing heat and it was slightly inflammable in the sense that a candle burned in it with an enlarged colour flame before going out.  In the end, he not only described ammonia chemically, but also its mode of production, and its characteristics.   (Schofield, RE.  2004: 98, 103, 104)

In 1781 the French Chemist, Claude Louis Bertholett became aware that something joined with hydrogen to form ammonia.  Three years later, Claude joined Lavoisier who was responsible for unravelling the composition of saltpetre along with de Morveau and de Fourcroy, in naming the substance azote.  (Smil, V.  2001:  61, 62)  Lavoisier named it from ancient Greek, ἀ- (without) and zoe (life).  He saw it as the part of air that can not sustain life.  “The name “nitrogen” was given to it by Jean Antoine Claude Chaptal in 1790 in a French text on chemistry which was translated into English in 1791. The name he used was ‘nitrogène’ and it was intended to express “the characteristic and exclusive property of this gas, which forms the radical of the nitric acid,” and thus be chemically more specific than “azote.””  (Munro and Allison, 1964)  As for ammonia, its modern name was given in 1782 by the Swedish chemist Torbern Bergman.  (Myers, RL.  2007:  27)  The discovery of Hydrogen is credited to Cavendish in 1766.

A Hint of Nitrogen in Animals

The relation between nitrogen through ammonia and animal bodies was known from early on.  In 1785, Claude Berthollet reported to the French Academy of Sciences that he found that the vapour that came from decomposing animal matter was ammonia. When he realised the gas, he found that it was composed of three volumes of hydrogen and one volume of nitrogen, or around 17% hydrogen and 83% nitrogen by weight.  He was very accurate in his measurements and the modern values of these are given as 17.75 and 82.25% respectively.  (Carpenter, 2003)

Techniques for testing for Nitrogen

Key to the identification of nitrogen in animal substances was developing the tools to test for it.   “The oxidation of organic material in the presence of cupric oxide, with the collection and measurement of the resultant gases was one of the earliest. It was developed extensively by Gay-Lussac, first while he was professor at the Sorbonne, and later when he was a chemist at the Jardin des Plantes in Paris.” (Sahyun, M. (Editor). 1948)

The method of Gay-Lussac was modified by Jean Dumas (1800-1884) and used by Dumas’ contemporary, Liebig. Dumas method remained the classic method, albeit with many modifications and adaptation to micro-procedure well into the 1900s.  In 1841, F. Varrentrapp and H. Will developed a total nitrogen method based on the liberation of ammonia by heating protein with alkali, followed by gravimetric estimation of the ammonia as its chloroplatinate. (Sahyun, M. (Editor). 1948)

The method was slow and tedious with fundamental inaccuracies, yet it had specific technical advantages over that of the Dumas-method when applied to metabolic observations and it was used in many early studies. It was the Danish chemist, J. Kjeldahl (1849-1900), of Carlsberg, who in 1883 presented a much-improved method for catalyzed digestion of nitrogenous materials in sulfuric acid which allowed for the production of ammonia quantitatively. (Sahyun, M. (Editor). 1948)

Nitrogen in Respiration

“The next stage is described in a correspondence which can no longer be traced but was fortunately published in 1871 by the British Association for the Advancement of Science. One of the foreign students attracted to Edinburgh by Black’s international reputation brought with him a letter dated September 19, 1789, from the French chemist Antoine Lavoisier, in which Lavoisier acknowledges the inspiration given him by Black’s researches and sends some views of his own on oxidation.”

“In a later letter to Black dated November 19, 1790, Lavoisier describes experiments on the respiration of human subjects in which he shows that oxygen is consumed and carbon dioxide evolved during this process, that the quantity of oxygen used increases by some 50% above the basal level after a meal (the modern specific dynamic action of food) and that in severe exercise, oxygen consumption can increase by as much as three-and-a-half times. The actual data are not very different from those currently accepted for oxygen consumption of man under these various conditions. Part of the letter states: “Legaz azote ne sert absolument à rien dans l’acte de la res piration et il ressort du poumon en même quantité et qualité qu’il y est entré.”  (Nitrogen is absolutely useless in the act of respiration, and it appears from the lung in the same quantity and quality that it has entered it)

This experiment described a mere 18 years after the discovery of nitrogen, may be regarded as the first metabolic experiment with nitrogen, and appears (D. McKie, personal communication, 1962) to have been based on studies made by Fourcroy in the late 1780s, using gasometric methods which were published in 1791 by Séguin.  The findings were negative and, although from time to time investigators have claimed that some nitrogen is lost from the body during respiration, most scientists of the present day would subscribe to Lavoisier’s view that gaseous nitrogen plays no part in the nitrogen metabolism of the mammalian organism.”  (Munro and Allison, 1964)  They believed that the balance of nitrogen ingested and was not recovered in stools or urine was probably lost through “insensible perspiration.”  (Carpenter, 2003)

Antoine Lavoisier and Armand Seguin’s experiment of human respiration not only showed no influence of nitrogen levels but also had some positive results.  It showed an increased output of carbon dioxide (carbonic acid, as they called it) during exercise.  This was measured at rest and when lifting weights.  By itself, it was a progression.  It was believed at the time that the sole purpose of respiration was the cooling of the heart.   (Carpenter, 2003)

Schematic drawing by Mme. Lavoisier of her husband measuring the carbonic acid output of his collaborator Armand Seguin, while she noted down the results. (Wellcome Institute, London) from Carpenter (2003).

Lavoisier, in collaboration with mathematician Pierre-Simon Laplace, was able to identify the slow combustion of organic compounds in animal tissue as the major source of body heat.  They compared the heat produced by the guinea pig with its production of carbon dioxide and compared the results with the heat produced by a lighted candle or charcoal. An ice calorimeter was used to measure the heat production. This instrument measures the heat generated by relating it to the weight of water released from the melting of the ice surrounding the inner chamber where the animal or burning material is housed. Measurement is not very precise, but it gave consistent results allowing them to draw the conclusion of the origin of body heat.  (Carpenter, 2003)

“Lavoisier had returned to further studies on respiration when he was arrested in 1793 during the Reign of Terror and kept in prison. On the day of his trial in 1794, he pleaded for a short stay of execution that would allow him to do one more experiment, but the judge is believed to have replied that the Republic had no need of “savants” (scientists), and he was guillotined the same afternoon.”  (Carpenter, 2003)

“Lavoisier not only introduced order into the study of the new chemistry. He also left behind him a vigorous school of chemists, some of whom turned their attention to the study of organic compounds by procedures in which gas was either evolved or removed. In 1810 a system of organic analysis was worked out by Gay-Lussac (a pupil of Lavoisier’s collaborator, Berthollet) and Thénard; the organic material was treated with potassium chlorate and the amount of oxygen and nitrogen liberated was then measured (Partington, 1951). The Dumas procedure, still a standard gasometric method of nitrogen analysis, was devised in 1830 (Partington, 1951). The new system of organic analysis allowed the identification of nitrogen-containing substances of interest to the biologist; the first fruits of this knowledge appeared immediately with the studies made by Magendie on the importance of nitrogenous components in the diet.”  (Munro and Allison, 1964)

“The presence of nitrogen in animal matter was confirmed and it was shown to be absent from sugars, starch, and fats. It was shown that wheat flour contained a component (what we call gluten) that had properties of animal matter, including the development of alkaline vapour when it was allowed to rot.  Potatoes were introduced and there was a debate if it could provide an adequate substitution for wheat since it did not have anything like gluten in it.  The question was asked if it was the gluten that made wheat flour such a good food.”  (Munro and Allison, 1964)

The isolation of proteins from plants has a long and illustrious background which goes back to the work of Bartolomeo Baccari (1682 – 1766) who was a professor at the University of Bologna for most of his life.  One of his writings appeared in 1734 entitled “de Frumento.”  Here he described the preparation of gluten which was found to be the protein portion of wheat flour.  The following is translated from Latin:

“This is a thing of little labor. Flour is taken of the best wheat, ground moderately lest the bran goes through the sieve, for it ought to be purified as far as possible in order that all suspicion of mixture should be removed.  Then it is mixed with the purest water and agitated. What remains after this process is set free by washing, for water carries off with itself whatever it is able to dissolve. The rest remains untouched.”

“Afterward that which the water leaves is taken in the hands and pressed together and is gradually converted into a soft mass and beyond what I could have believed tenacious, a remarkable kind of glue and suitable for many purposes, among which it is worth mentioning that it can no longer be mixed with water. Those other parts which the water carries away with itself for some time float and render the water milky. Afterwards, they gradually settle to the bottom but do not adhere together; but like a powder return upward at the slightest agitation. Nothing is more nearly related to this than starch or better, it is indeed starch.”

The starchy material, he classified as flour.  The characteristics he described is that it would ferment to give acid spirits, indicating its “vegetable nature.” The characteristic of the gluten, on the other hand, was of “animal nature” for “within a few days it gets sour and rots and very stinkingly putrifies like a dead body.”

In this time, this was the method of distinguishing proteins from carbohydrates. This view was still prevalent during the time of Mulder and Liebig’s theory of the identity of animal and plant proteins and the thought that vegetable protein consumed by herbivores becomes directly the flesh and blood of the animal.  (Sahyun, M. (Editor). 1948)

“Another question raised was where the nitrogen in animal bodies came from.  The largest source was, of course, the air around us and some chemists suggested that animals get the nitrogen from the air by a kind of combination must occur during an animal’s digestion of plant foods “so as to give the ingesta the characteristics that would allow them to be incorporated into the animal’s own tissues either for growth or replacement of worn-out materials.”  (Carpenter, 2003)

“Several compounds were isolated that became very important later in understanding protein metabolism.  One such compound was urea.  In 1773 it was identified in urine by H. M. Rouelle, brother of the G. F. Rouelle under whom Lavoisier had studied chemistry. Prévost and Dumas showed in 1823 that urea accumulated in the blood when the kidneys of rabbits or cats were removed. It proved that urea was not synthesized by the kidneys, and Prévost and Dumas suggested the liver as the site of its formation.

This was also the period when the first amino acid was identified.  Despite being far from our modern concept of amino acids, these observations showed the seed which would later produce the theory of the amino acid building blocks, or “bausteine,” of the protein molecule. In 1810, cystine was obtained from urinary calculi by Wollaston in England.  William Prout (1785-1850) did elementary analyses of the substance but many years were to pass before sulfur would be found to be one of its component elements and would be detected as one of the products of protein disintegration.  (Munro and Allison, 1964) and (Sahyun, M. (Editor). 1948)

In France, Proust, working with the flavoring matter of cheeses, in 1819 isolated from cheese a white compound which he called casein oxide. His countryman, Braconnot, director of the Horticultural Gardens in Nancy obtained leucine from sulfuric acid digests of muscle and of wool (1820). This was the first occasion on which acid hydrolysis was employed for the disintegration of proteins.  Also in 1820 in the same work, Braconnot described the isolation of glycine from the acid hydrolysate of fish glue. Because of its characteristic sweet taste the product was called “sugar of gelatin.”  (Munro and Allison, 1964) and (Sahyun, M. (Editor). 1948)

The discovery of tyrosine was a contribution of Liebig, whom we will look at in Part 2. He reported in a brief paper in 1846 the separation of this compound from casein after fusion with caustic potash, dissolving in water and neutralization with acetic acid. A year later he obtained the same compound from fibrin and serum albumin. The product was finally isolated by acid hydrolysis, using the earlier technique of Braconnot. (Munro and Allison, 1964) and (Sahyun, M. (Editor). 1948)

François Magendie: Nitrogen as the basis for Nutrition

A major step came from the work of Magendie (1783–1855) who linked the nitrogen of inanimate substances with that of living systems.  He was the first to recognise that there is a major difference between the nutritional value of food containing nitrogen and those without it.  Magendie grew up in revolutionary Paris and practised as a surgeon before changing to physiology.

“In order to appreciate the extent of Magendie’s contribution, it is necessary to go back to the views held in the previous century about the nutritional importance of different dietary components. The opinions prevailing at that time are adequately summarized by a quotation from the lectures of Albrecht Haller delivered before the students of Göttingen and published in an English edition in 1754, two years before Black announced the discovery of carbon dioxide:

“. . . The flesh of animals appears a necessary part of our nourishment, … For it appears that the flesh of animals only contains the gelatinous lymph, ready prepared for the recruit both of our fluids and solids, which, being extracted from broken vessels and fibres, is readily converted into abundance of blood. . . . None (of the vegetables) have that animal glue, which is spontaneously changeable into blood; for it is only the small portion of jelly, which is drawn from their farinaceous parts, which, after many circulations, is converted into the nature of our indigenous juices.”  (Munro and Allison, 1964)

Haller’s concepts of the chemical components of tissues are expounded in more detail in his textbook “Elementa Physiologiae” published in 8 volumes between 1757 and 1765. This shows that Haller and his contemporaries regarded “fibre” as the basic structure of all organized parts of the body, and that fiber was made up of several components: “Elementa fibrae . . alia solida sunt, fluida alia. . . . Solida elementum terra est, de calcario genere, quae cum acidis fervet. . . . Altera pars fibrae humanae gluten est.”  (Elements of the fibers. . other solids are fluid. . . . Concrete element is of the kind is like limestone, which ferments with acids. . . . The other part of the fibers is a human glue)

Presumably, the gelatinous lymph referred to in Haller’s lecture arose from the gluten. The reference in the lecture to the “jelly” of vegetables which can be converted into animal tissues may indicate that Haller was familiar with the experiments of Beccari (1682–1766), who had separated gluten from flour and commented that, unlike the starch of the flour which was “of vegetable nature,” the gluten was “of animal nature.”  (Munro and Allison, 1964)

“From Haller’s description of nutrition, we may conclude that a substance resembling the modern protein was suspected to be a constituent of animal tissues and to a lesser extent of plants, and this dietary component was considered to be essential for the renewal of blood and tissues. The genius of Magendie was that he restated this concept in chemical terms and thus understood the profound difference in nutritive value between the nitrogenous and nonnitrogenous components of the diet.”  (Munro and Allison, 1964) He became interested in the subject through his interest in the then current use of special dietary treatment for the cure and prevention of urinary calculi or kidney stones. Such diets were particularly poor in nitrogenous substances and this led him to study the effects of nitrogen-free foods upon dogs.  (Sahyun, M. (Editor). 1948)

In his first work on the subject, reported to the Academy of Sciences in 1816, he addressed the question of whether animals could access atmospheric nitrogen to “animalize” ingested foods of low nitrogen content.”  (Carpenter, 2003)

In his 1816 article, “Sur les propriétés nutritives des substances qui ne contiennent pas d’azote.” (On the nutritional properties of substances that do not contain nitrogen),  Magendie described experiments on dogs that received only carbohydrate (sugar) or fat (olive oil) until they died, in a few week’s time. From these experiments, he concluded that a nitrogen source was an essential component of the diet. For his choice of experimental animal he was taken to task by the editor of the Journal of the Royal Institution, who felt that, since he was feeding nutrients derived from plant sources, he ought to have used herbivora. To which Magendie (1816b) replied with acidity: “il faut un peu de patience; les expériences ne se font pas comme les arti cles critiques dans les journaux.” (It takes a little patience; the experiments are not like the critical articles in the newspapers)

Although Magendie’s experiments were undoubtedly complicated by vitamin deficiencies, they were first approximations to an ideal—the long-term feeding experiment with purified foodstuffs—which has only been attained in recent years. As such, they are forerunners of the classical procedure for establishing whether a nutrient is essential to the body, namely by excluding it from the diet and then looking for symptoms attributable to its deficiency.

The distinction between nitrogenous and nonnitrogenous foods is made with even greater emphasis in Magendie’s “Elementary Compendium of Physiology for the Use of Students,” of which the first edition appeared in 1817 and the third edition was translated into English in 1829. Magendie’s compendium is the first modern textbook of physiology. Written in vigorous French prose, it breaks with the tradition of earlier books like Haller’s “Elementa Physiologiae,” (1757–65) written in turgid Latin. The contrast in outlook is even more striking; from Haller to Magendie we step out of the primaeval forests of mystery and speculation into the bright sunshine of scientific observation and deductive reasoning.

A large part of Magendie’s success in the physiology of nutrition can be attributed to the influence of Lavoisier’s vigorous school of chemistry, which had grown up in the interval. This can be seen when we compare the passage about the components of tissue fibre quoted above from Haller’s textbook with the following precise statement about the components of tissues taken from Magendie’s textbook (p. 10): . . . The proximate principles of animals are divided into azotised and non-azotised. The azotised principles of animals are albumen, fibrin, gelatin, mucus, casein, urea, uric acid, osmazome, red-colouring matter of the blood, yellow colouring principle. The non-azotised principles are: olein, stearin, fatty matter of the brain, the acetic, benzoic, lactic, formic, oxalic, rosacic, acids; sugar of milk, sugar of diabetic urine, picromel; colouring matter of bile, and of other liquids and solids, which become coloured by accident.

Later (p. 470) he goes on to say: . . . Since chemical analysis has made known the nature of the different tissues of the animal economy, they have been all found to contain a considerable portion of azote. Our food being also partly composed of this simple body, the azote of our organs likewise probably comes from them; but several eminent authors think that it has its source in the respiration; others believe that it is formed by the influence of life solely. Both parties insist particularly upon the example of the herbivorous animals, which are supported exclusively upon non-azotised matter; upon the history of certain peoples that live entirely on rice and maize; upon that of negroes, who can live a long time without eating anything but sugar; lastly, upon what is related of caravans, which, in traversing the deserts, have for a long time had only gum in place of every sort of food. Were it indeed proved by these facts, that men can live a long time without azotised food, it would be necessary to acknowledge that azote has an origin different from the food; but the facts cited by no means prove this. In fact, almost all the vegetables upon which man and animals feed contain more or less azote; for example, the impure sugar that the negroes eat presents a considerable proportion of it; and with regard to the people as they say, who feed upon rice and maize, it is well known that they add milk or cheese; now casein is the most azotised of all the nutritive proximate principles. I have thought that we might acquire some more exact notions on this subject, by submitting animals, during a necessary time, to the use of food, of which the chemical composition should be known.

Thereafter follows a detailed description of the experiments taken from Magendie’s publication of 1816a, in which he fed only carbohydrate or fat to dogs. To these, he added some new studies made on dogs eating special diets and noted particularly that dogs fed exclusively on cheese or eggs, both nitrogenous foods, survived indefinitely, although they were weak. Magendie concluded from his studies that “these facts . . . make it very probable that the azote of the organs is produced by the food.”

Magendie’s inquiring mind also extended to views on how the diet was utilized by the tissues of the body. In his textbook (p. 18), he says: … The life of man and that of other organised bodies is founded upon this, that they habitually assimilate to themselves a certain quantity of matter, which we name aliment. The privation of that matter, during even a very limited period, brings with it necessarily the cessation of life. On the other side, daily observation teaches, that the organs of man, as well as those of all living beings, lose, at each instant, a certain quantity of that matter which composes them; nay, it is on the necessity of repairing these habitual losses that the want of aliment is founded. From these two data, and from others which we shall make known afterwards, we justly conclude, that living bodies are by no means always composed of the same matter at every period of their existence. . . . It is extremely probable that all parts of the body of man experience an intestine movement, which has the double effect of expelling the molecules that can or ought no longer to compose the organs, and replacing them by new molecules. This internal, intimate motion, constitutes nutrition. And again (p. 468), … Nutrition is more or less rapid according to the tissues. The glands, the muscles, skin, etc. change their volume, colour, consistence, with great quickness; the tendons, fibrous membranes, the bones, the cartilages, appear to have a much slower nutrition, for their physical properties change but slowly by the effect of age and disease.

This prophetic insight into the continual renewal of body constituents, differing in rate in different tissues, succumbed to the theories of Liebig, Voit, Folin and others, and was not regained until more than a century later when Schoenheimer’s publication in 1942 of “The Dynamic State of Body Constituents” demonstrated the instability of tissue components by isotopic means.”  (Munro and Allison, 1964)

“An important, unmentioned assumption behind Magendie’s work was that an animal species could be used as a model for humans; in other words, that our bodies were essentially of the same general character as those of animals. This may have arisen, at least in part, as a result of an interest in France for studies in comparative anatomy.”  (Carpenter, 2003)

Jean Baptiste Boussingault

Another active investigator in France in the 1830s, with a quite different background from that of Magendie, was also studying the source of an animal’s nitrogen-rich tissues. This was Jean Baptiste Boussingault, the great “farmer of Bechelbrom,” who had learned his chemistry in a school for mining engineers. After a period of adventurous geological exploration in South America, he returned, married a farm owner’s daughter and put his mind to agricultural science. He obtained a position at the Sorbonne in Paris, where he collaborated with J. B. Dumas, one of the leading French chemists, and divided his year between Paris and the farm.”  (Carpenter, 2003)

It was Boussingault who realised in 1836, over sixty centuries after it was noted and recorded that manure and legumes were beneficial to crop production, that it was the nitrogen content in the soil or fertiliser which is important for plant nutrition. In 1838, he performed a number of experiments where he grew legumes in sand with no nitrogen in it. The legumes continued to grow and the only conclusion he could come to was that they took their nitrogen from the air.  How they did it, he still had no idea.   (Galloway, J. N, et al., 2013)  He was able to show that this was not possible for cereal grain.

“He then turned to cows and horses, whose common feeds had the reputation of being exceptionally low in nitrogen. His approach was first to find the level of feeding that kept his animals at constant weight, and then for 3 days to record the animal’s feed, excreta and, in the case of the cow, its milk, and also to analyze all these for their nitrogen content. With the horse, receiving altogether some 8.5kg hay and oats per 24 hours, the daily nitrogen intake was 139g, and the nitrogen recovered in urine and dung came to only 116g. The cow, fed on hay and potatoes, had a daily intake of 201g nitrogen and the recovered output, including 46g from milk, was only 175g. He concluded that the animals’ feed provided sufficient nitrogen to meet their needs and that there was no need to hypothesize that they had to obtain nitrogen from the atmosphere.

These seem to have been the first of the many thousands of “balance” trials that would continue to be carried out until the present day. Unfortunately, the only method of analysis for nitrogen that had been developed at that time required him first to dry his samples, which could be expected to result in loss of ammonia when he was drying urine and dung. This could explain the apparent “positive” balance in these animals that were assumed to be in a steady state.”  (Carpenter, 2003)

Why the focus on nitrogen?

“Even before carrying out his balance experiments with herbivores, Boussingault had proposed that the relative nutritional values of plant foods could be assessed from their contents of nitrogen. His justification for this went roughly as follows: “Magendie has shown that foods that do not contain nitrogen cannot continue to support life, therefore the nutritional value of a vegetable substance resides principally in the gluten and vegetable albumin that it contains.” Investigators at this time certainly knew that animal bodies also contained minerals that they must have obtained from their food. Even earlier, two workers had written that: “Beans are so nourishing because they contain starch, an animal matter, phosphate, lime, magnesia, potash, and iron. They yield at once the aliments and the materials proper to form and color the blood and to nourish the bones”. Perhaps in response to such criticism, Boussingault explained, “I am far from regarding nitrogenous materials alone as sufficient for the nutrition of animals; but it is a fact that where nitrogenous materials are present at high levels in vegetables they are generally accompanied by the other organic and inorganic substances which are also needed for nutrition”. It is clear from the context that the “organic substances” to which he is referring are starches and not any hypothetical trace nutrients.

Was there any reason at this period for investigators to suspect that other nutrients might also be needed to constitute a complete diet? One might think that the problem of scurvy appearing among sailors and the evidence for the value of fruits and green foods in the prevention of the disease, would have suggested it. However, even James Lind, famous for his controlled clinical trial of different potential antiscorbutics, believed that they were active in countering the bad effects of sea air, and were not required by people living on land any more than quinine would be of any value for people not living in a malarious area. Also, it was clear that dogs, the animals being used by the French workers, thrived without such supplementary food items.”  (Carpenter, 2003)

Synthesis by plants

Dumas, a colleague of Boussingault’s concluded in the early 1800s that the plant kingdom alone was capable of synthesizing the kinds of nitrogenous compounds abundant in animal tissues. Then, from the observation that the overall reactions of animals were characterized by oxidation, he made the further generalization that the animal kingdom was only capable of oxidizing the materials that are obtained from its plant food. (Carpenter, 2003)

Conclusion

It is to the work of François Magendie in his 1816 publications that we credit the concept of nitrogen as the basis for nutrition.  Its presence in all animal matter was at this time firmly established and sets animals apart from plants.  This is the cornerstone of the practice in recent years to link the determination of total meat content to nitrogen.

Of course, it is not the full story yet.  Not by a mile!  Next, we will pick up the development thread by starting to look at the work of Justus von Liebig and look at the emergence of the concept of the protein.


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(c) eben van tonder


Note 1

The calculation of total meat content is set out in par. 14 of the act and it revolved around the amount of nitrogen present.  Processed meats are described in 14 (3)as “simple or mixed” and “shall be meat which has been subjected to cooking, curing, drying, smoking and any combination of such processes. It may contain common salt, saltpetre, sodium or potassium nitrite, sugar, vinegar, spices and/ or permitted colouring matter, but no other foreign substances. The minimum total meat content shall be 95 percent and the amount of nitrite calculated as sodium nitrite, shall not exceed 200 p.p.m. in the finished article. If packed in any container, fat agar-agar and/or gelatin may be used as a packing medium.”

For our purposes, par (4) (i) is important, dealing with manufactured meat products and being described as “meat products which have undergone one or more of the processes enumerated in 14 (3) in addition to mincing and/or grinding, and include polonies, saveloys, meat pastes, brawn, meatloaves or rolls and similar articles containing meat, but exclude food products of the nature of sausage rolls and meat pies.”

Par 4 (ii) says that “manufactured meat products shall be made from meat as defined in regulation 14 (1) ( a) with spices and flavouring with or without milk, eggs, agar-agar, gelatin and wholesome farinaceous (containing starch) or other vegetable substances. They may contain added phosphates, not exceeding 0,5 percent of the final product, added ascorbic acid, permitted preservatives and colouring matter, saltpeter, and potassium or sodium nitrite: provided that the finished article shall not contain more than 200 p.p.m. of nitrite calculated as sodium nitrite. The total meat content shall not be less than 75 percent. If packed in any container, brine, fat, agar-agar and/or gelatin may be used as a packing medium.”

Par 4 (iii) deals with canned meat and the calculations of total meat content are defined in subparagraph 4 (iv). It reads as follows: “In all cases where it is necessary to calculate total meat under regulations 14 (1), (2), (3) and (4), the formula used shall be:—

Percentage Lean Meat = (Percentage Protein Nitrogen × 30 ).
Percentage Total Meat = (Percentage Lean Meat + Percentage Fat).

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References

Ashurst, P. R., Dennis, M. J..  1996.  Food Authentication.  Blackie Academic & Professional.

Berthollet (1785) “Analyse de l’alkali volatil”(Analysis of volatile alkali), Mémoires de l’Académie Royale des Sciences, 316–326.

Black, Joseph (1893) [1755]. Experiments upon magnesia alba, quick-lime, and other alcaline substances. Edinburgh: W.F. Clay.

Chisholm 1911, p. 861.

Carpenter, K. J.; A Short History of Nutritional Science: Part 1 (1785–1885), The Journal of Nutrition, Volume 133, Issue 3, 1 March 2003, Pages 638–645, https://doi.org/10.1093/jn/133.3.638

Galloway, J. N.,  Leach, A. M., Bleeker, A.,  Erisman, J. W..  27 May 2013.  A chronology of human understanding of the nitrogen cycle.  DOI: 10.1098/rstb.2013.0120

Lawrie, R. A.; Ledward, D. A. (2006). Lawrie’s meat science (7th ed.). Cambridge: Woodhead Publishing Limited. 

Maurice P. Crosland (2004). Historical Studies in the Language of Chemistry. Courier Dover Publications. p. 72. ISBN 0-486-43802-3.

Munro, H. N., and Allison, J. B..  1964.  Mammalian Protein Metabolism.   Academic Press.

Myers, RL.  2007.  The 100 most important chemical compounds.  Greenwood Press, Westport.

Sahyun, M. (Editor). 1948. Proteins and Amino Acids in Nutrition. Reinhold Publishing Corporation

Schofield, RE.  2004.  The Enlightened Joseph Priestly.  The Pennsylvanian State University

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Woulfe, Peter (1767-01-01). “Experiments on the Distillation of Acids, Volatile Alkalies, &c. Shewing How They May be Condensed without Loss, and How Thereby We May Avoid Disagreeable and Noxious Fumes: In a Letter from Mr. Peter Woulfe, F. R. S. to John Ellis, Esq; F. R. S.” Philosophical Transactions57: 517–536. doi:10.1098/rstl.1767.0052ISSN 0261-0523.