Recipe Mortadella

30 August 2024
Eben van Tonder

Table of Contents

Introduction

In the world of charcuterie, the art of crafting sausages is a testament to cultural tradition, culinary expertise, and a deep understanding of ingredients. Among the many varieties of sausages, mortadella holds a special place as a symbol of Italian gastronomic heritage. However, when we explore the broader category of finely emulsified sausages, we enter a world where mortadella, bologna, and jagdwurst coexist, each offering a unique texture, flavour profile, and culinary application.

Mortadella is often celebrated for its rich, complex flavour and its signature marbled appearance, with cubes of pork fat and whole black peppercorns or pistachios adding visual and textural interest. Bologna, in contrast, is simpler and smoother, typically lacking the “showpieces” that characterize mortadella. Jagdwurst, or “hunter’s sausage,” diverges even further with its coarse texture, embodying a more rustic and hearty approach to sausage making.

For me, the defining characteristic that separates these sausages is their texture. A finely emulsified sausage, with its smooth and uniform consistency, falls into the category of bologna or mortadella. Jagdwurst, on the other hand, retains a coarser grind, offering a more robust bite.

In this article, I will focus on crafting mortadella, with its intricate flavour profile and textural complexity. However, the beauty of sausage-making lies in its versatility. By adjusting the grind, omitting certain ingredients, or simplifying the seasoning, this mortadella recipe could easily be transformed into a jagdwurst or bologna. The difference lies in the details—whether you choose to showcase the rich marbling of fat and spices or prefer a simpler, smoother finish.

Understanding the Differences:

Jagdwurst: Often referred to as a hunter’s sausage, jagdwurst is characterized by its coarse texture and robust flavor. Unlike the finely emulsified mortadella, jagdwurst contains larger chunks of meat and fat, providing a hearty bite that is ideal for rustic, country-style dishes.
Bologna: Known for its simplicity, bologna is a finely emulsified sausage that lacks the complex marbling and “showpieces” found in mortadella. Its smooth, uniform texture makes it a versatile choice for sandwiches and cold cuts, but it does not offer the visual or textural intrigue of mortadella.
Mortadella: The “queen of sausages,” mortadella is distinguished by its smooth texture, rich flavour, and the inclusion of whole black peppercorns, pistachios, or fat cubes. It is the complexity of these ingredients that elevates mortadella, making it a delicacy enjoyed in Italian cuisine and beyond.

Whether you prefer the smooth, refined elegance of mortadella, the simplicity of bologna, or the hearty, rustic appeal of jagdwurst, the foundational techniques remain the same. The choice of ingredients, texture, and seasoning is what ultimately defines each sausage, allowing you to tailor the recipe to your taste and culinary goals.

The Historical and Poetic Legacy of Mortadella

Mortadella, often heralded as the “queen of sausages,” holds a special place in the culinary heritage of Italy, particularly in the region of Bologna where it originated. Historically considered a delicacy, mortadella was once a luxurious treat enjoyed primarily by the nobility during grand feasts and celebrations. Its smooth, velvety texture and rich, aromatic flavour reflect the meticulous care and craftsmanship involved in its preparation.

The name “mortadella” is believed to derive from the Latin word “mortarium,” referencing the traditional method of pounding pork into a fine paste using a mortar. This ancient process, combined with a carefully selected blend of spices, myrtle berries, and sometimes pistachios or truffles, produces a sausage that is not only a culinary delight but also a symbol of opulence and festivity.

Mortadella’s pink, marbled appearance is often poetically described as a gastronomic treasure, connecting those who savour it to a deep sense of history and place. It embodies the Italian way of life, where food is more than mere sustenance—it’s a reflection of culture, history, and emotion, crafted with passion and precision.

In literary and culinary circles, mortadella is celebrated for its ability to evoke the grandeur of Italian feasts, where every slice carries with it a memory, a taste of history on the tongue. The subtle hints of spices and aromatic ingredients elevate its flavour to an ethereal experience, making it a true testament to the art of Italian charcuterie.

For a deeper exploration of the history and origins of mortadella, visit The Origins of Polony.

Poetic Tribute to Mortadella

"In Bologna’s heart where feasts are made, 
Mortadella reigns, a pink cascade. 
With lard so pure and spices rare, 
A queenly treat beyond compare.

Wrapped in history, flavors deep, 
A slice of culture, memories steep. 
From ancient Rome to modern day, 
Mortadella leads the gourmet way."

Mortadella Recipe:

To replace the rum flavouring in your recipe, a suitable alternative would be vanilla extract or caramel flavouring. Both options provide a warm, sweet note that can complement the other spices without overpowering the meat’s natural flavours. Vanilla extract is more neutral and widely accepted, while caramel flavouring offers a rich, slightly toasty flavour that can enhance the savoury profile of the sausage.

Ingredient	Quantity (kg)	Percentage (%)
Beef Chuck	61	61.00%
Pork trim 80/20	10	10.00%
Brisket Fat	9	9.00%
Dextrose	1	1.00%
Gelatin	0.2	0.20%
Dry Milk	3.6	3.60%
Salt	2.5	2.50%
Wine	6.41	6.41%
Water	6	6.00%
Cinnamon	0.025	0.03%
Coriander	0.063	0.06%
Pepper black	0.1	0.10%
Vanilla Extract	0.1	0.10%
Totals	100	100.00%

Method:

Grind Meat: Grind the beef chuck, pork trim, and brisket fat through a coarse grinder.
Cube Fat: Cut the brisket fat into small cubes if not already done.
Cure: Combine the meat mixture with wine, water, dextrose, gelatin, dry milk, salt, cinnamon, coriander, black pepper, and vanilla extract. Cure the mixture at 3°C (38°F) for 24 hours.
Stuff: After curing, stuff the mixture into casings.
Hold: Hold the stuffed sausages for another 24 hours at 3°C (38°F).
Cook: Steam cook the sausages until they reach an internal temperature of 68°C (140°F).

Vanilla extract pairs well with the existing spices, ensuring the product retains a warm and inviting flavour profile.

Note: Please note that the water quantity is included along with the wine in the original recipe. If you want to replace the wine with water, you can consider using 50% water and 50% ice to achieve a similar consistency and moisture content. For flavour replacement, you could consider adding a combination of vinegar (for acidity) and a small amount of sugar or sweetener to mimic the wine’s profile or another flavorful liquid like a broth or a juice with a low acid content.

Recipe Replacing Wine with Water/Ice Mixture and Flavor Additions

To adjust the recipe while removing the wine and maintaining a similar flavour profile, we can replace the wine with water to maintain the bulk. To mimic the flavour complexity that wine would bring, we can add a mixture of vinegar and sugar to balance the acidity and sweetness typically provided by the wine. This will help achieve a similar depth of flavour without using alcohol.

Ingredient	Quantity (Kg)	Percentage (%)
Beef Chuck	60	60.00%
Pork trim 80/20	10	10.00%
Brisket Fat	9	9.00%
Dextrose	1	1.00%
Gelatin	0.2	0.20%
Dry Milk	3.5	3.50%
Salt	2.5	2.50%
Water	11	11.00%
Vinegar	2	2.00%
Sugar	0.5	0.50%
Cinnamon	0.025	0.03%
Coriander	0.063	0.06%
Pepper black	0.1	0.10%
Vanilla Extract	0.11	0.11%
Totals	100	100.00%

Method/Processing Instructions

-> Meat and Fat Preparation:

Coarsely grind the beef chuck, pork trim, and brisket fat separately. Use a 6-8 mm plate for the initial grind.
Cube the brisket fat into small, uniform pieces.

-> Curing:

Mix the coarsely ground meat with salt and curing agents. Cure at 3°C (38°F) for 24 hours.

-> Emulsification:

First Pass: Pass the cured meat mixture through a finer grinder or emulsifier to start creating a smooth texture.
Second Pass: Emulsify the mixture using a bowl cutter or high-powered food processor. Gradually add the gelatin, dry milk, dextrose, spices (cinnamon, coriander, black pepper, rum flavoring), and vinegar during the emulsification process.
Gradually add the water and ice mixture to the emulsion, ensuring it is fully integrated.

-> Stuffing: