5 Feb 2024
Eben van Tonder

Introduction

When I visited Ile Ife in 2023 I became aware of the spiritual significance of Kula nut (The Enigmatic Kola Nut) and Gin. Last night Theodore gave me the spiritual connection when he introduced me to the native name and drink which is the Nigerian Gin called Ogogoro.

Since Dawie Grove and I visited Captain’s Bar in Ilupeju a good few months ago, I have become intimately acquainted with Palm Wine and now I learn that Ogogoro is its cousin. Ogogoro is Nigeria’s traditional palm spirit and is embedded in the country’s cultural, spiritual, and societal ethos, reflecting a legacy that spans several aspects of life. This spirit, distilled from the fermented sap of the Raffia palm tree, is more than a mere alcoholic beverage and embodies the rich tapestry of Nigerian heritage. In contrast, gin, with its juniper essence and global acclaim, presents a different cultural narrative—one of industrial precision and botanical diversity. I delve into the deeper traditional and belief values associated with Ogogoro, its earliest mentions in literature, and how these contrast with gin, including a brief look at their nutritional aspects.

The Deep-Rooted Tradition and Belief Value of Ogogoro

Ogogoro’s significance in Nigerian culture is profound. It is revered not only for its intoxicating properties but for its spiritual and medicinal roles:

– Ogogoro is used in many rituals, serving as an offering to ancestors and gods, believed to facilitate communication with the spiritual realm. It’s used in purification rites, protecting against malevolent spirits and ensuring spiritual cleansing.

– Its role in fostering communal bonds is unparalleled, marking its presence in weddings, funerals, and other communal gatherings as a symbol of unity and shared heritage.

– Traditionally, Ogogoro is mixed with herbs to treat various ailments, showcasing the intertwined nature of traditional medicine and spiritual beliefs in Nigerian society.

These uses depict its cultural and spiritual connection, distinguishing it from many other spirits by its integral role in the social fabric of Nigerian life.

Earliest Mentions in Literature

Tracing the earliest mentions of Ogogoro is complex due to the oral tradition prevalent in West Africa. However, palm wine, from which Ogogoro is distilled, has a documented presence in African literature and colonial records dating back to the late 19th and early 20th centuries. These documents often detail the social and ceremonial importance of palm wine, suggesting a longstanding tradition of fermented palm sap consumption and its distillation into spirits like Ogogoro.

The Luxe Digest reports that “When it comes to the birthplace of this potent spirit, the Southern region of Nigeria, including the Niger Delta, is believed to be the original producer of ogogoro. The local Ijaw, Efik, and Ibibio communities are usually credited with its initial production. They perfected the art of fermenting and distilling the palm sap into this high-proof beverage. The taste and potency of ogogoro primarily depend on the method and duration of fermentation.”

“Although uncertain, the origin of Ogogoro is traced back to the 19th century, during palm wine tapping and fermentation by the local communities. This traditional and locally brewed spirit comes from the sap of Raffia palms, also known as “palm wine.” This sap, when carefully fermented and distilled, turns into Ogogoro.” (The Luxe Digest)

“Palm wine tapping is a significant part of the region’s culture with historical importance. The locals initially observed that when this palm wine was left to stand for a period, it fermented and became more potent. From that observation, the method of distilling Ogogoro was gradually developed.” (The Luxe Digest)

“In the early 20th century, during British rule, Nigerian palm wine, which was deemed a ‘native’ or ‘country’ liquor, was heavily taxed. This taxation led to the rise of ‘illicit gin’, and this period marked increased local distillation of Ogogoro, as people tried to avoid paying taxes by making their own alcohol at home. Despite its prohibition by the British colonial masters, Ogogoro production and consumption continued to flourish, attesting to its strong cultural significance.” (The Luxe Digest)

In the YouTube video below I explore the origin and meaning of the term ogogoro.

Nutritional Analysis and Comparison with Gin

From a nutritional standpoint, both Ogogoro and gin primarily consist of ethanol and water, with a caloric content driven by their alcohol content. However, Ogogoro’s traditional distillation might leave trace elements that contribute to its distinct taste and possibly its nutritional profile, albeit minimally in terms of health impact. In comparison, gin’s additional botanicals offer negligible nutritional benefits but contribute to its unique flavour profile.

How its Made

Ogogoro, also known as “sapele water,” “white bitters,” or locally simply as “hot drink,” is a traditional West African distilled spirit, particularly popular in Nigeria. It is often made from the sap of raffia palm trees or, less commonly, from other types of palm, like the oil palm. The production process of Ogogoro is relatively straightforward but requires skill to ensure quality and safety. Here’s an overview of the traditional process:

1. Harvesting Palm Sap

The first step involves tapping the sap from palm trees, a process usually done early in the morning. Tappers climb the palm trees and carefully cut into the flower stalk to allow the sap to flow into containers. This sap, known as “palm wine,” is sweet and non-alcoholic but begins to ferment naturally due to wild yeasts in the air as soon as it is collected, turning into alcohol within hours.

2. Fermentation

After collection, the palm wine is left to ferment in large containers. The natural fermentation process can last from one day to a week, depending on ambient temperatures and the desired strength of the fermentation. No external yeasts are added, as the wild yeasts present on the palm and in the environment are sufficient to ferment the sap into palm wine with an alcohol content of about 4% to 6%.

3. Distillation

The fermented palm wine is then distilled to produce Ogogoro. The distillation process traditionally involves a simple pot still, which consists of a large pot for the wine, a heat source to boil the liquid, and a condenser to cool and condense the vapor back into liquid form. The setup might vary, but it essentially allows the alcohol vapors to be collected as they evaporate from the boiling fermented palm wine, condense in a cooling system, and then drip out as distilled spirit. This distilled liquid is Ogogoro, which has a much higher alcohol content than the original palm wine, usually around 30% to 50% alcohol by volume, though it can be higher.

4. Collection and Storage

The distilled Ogogoro is collected into containers. The first part of the distillate, known as the “head,” is often discarded because it contains methanol and other undesirable compounds. The main portion, or the “heart,” is kept, while the “tail,” which comes out towards the end of the distillation process, might be redistilled with the next batch or also kept, depending on the producer’s preference.

Ogogoro and Kola Nut

My experiences in Ile Ife clearly showed me that there is a relationship between the Kola Nute and Gin. I was eager to understand what it is.

-> Kola Nut in West African Culture

The kola nut is revered across West Africa for its stimulant properties and its symbolic value in social rituals, hospitality, and spiritual practices. It is traditionally used to welcome guests, in marriage ceremonies, and naming ceremonies. The kola nut is also significant in divination practices and as an offering to ancestors and deities. Breaking and sharing a kola nut is a gesture of goodwill, unity, and communal bond. It’s believed that the kola nut can only be offered and shared in peace, embodying the saying, “He who brings kola brings life.”

-> Ogogoro in West African Culture

Ogogoro’s significance is more aligned with social gatherings, celebrations, and also certain spiritual rituals where it may be used in libations or as an offering to the spirits and ancestors. Its consumption is often a communal activity, reinforcing social bonds and shared community life.

The Link in Legend

There isn’t a widely recognized specific legend that directly links ogogoro and the kola nut but both elements are integral to the fabric of West African cultural and spiritual practices. Their connection can be inferred through their common use in rituals, ceremonies, and social events. In many cultures, the consumption of ogogoro and the sharing of kola nuts are acts that invoke blessings, foster community spirit, and serve as direct links to ancestral wisdom and guidance.

In some narratives and practices, the use of ogogoro and kola nuts together in rituals and ceremonies can symbolize a balance between the physical and spiritual worlds. The kola nut, with its association with life, communication, and the sacred, and ogogoro, with its transformative power and its role in social and ceremonial libations, together embody a harmonious blend of the vital aspects of West African spirituality and community life.

Names in Other West African Countries

• Ghana: In Ghana, a similar spirit derived from palm wine or sugar cane is known as “Akpeteshie.” Like Ogogoro, Akpeteshie plays a significant role in social and cultural ceremonies.
• Sierra Leone: The local spirit similar to Ogogoro in Sierra Leone is referred to as “Poyo,” although Poyo is more commonly the term for palm wine itself. The distilled version might simply be called distilled Poyo or local gin.
• Liberia: In Liberia, the homemade distilled palm wine spirit is also known as “Cane Juice” when made from sugar cane, or “Gbangbani” in certain areas.

Conclusion

Ogogoro and gin represent different cultural narratives and significance. Ogogoro, with its profound traditional and belief values, stands as a symbol of Nigerian heritage, spirituality, and community. Its production, rooted in traditional methods, and its role in various cultural and spiritual practices, contrasts with gin’s global presence and industrial production process. While both spirits share basic nutritional similarities, the traditional significance, earliest mentions, and cultural roles of Ogogoro paint a picture of a beverage that is much more than an alcoholic drink—it is a vital part of Nigeria’s cultural identity and social cohesion.