By Eben van Tonder, 27 January 2025

Introduction

Lagos never sleeps a place where the aroma of grilled meat drifts through the streets, from roadside suya vendors to high-end restaurants. Yet, as I work on refining the process of smoking and cooking chicken for an industrial setup, I find myself faced with a challenge that every serious meat processor understands: how do you achieve a rich, golden-brown colour on smoked chicken without over-smoking it?

The dilemma is simple but crucial. Smoke brings flavour, depth, and visual appeal, but too much of it can overpower the natural taste of the meat. On the other hand, if you rely too much on heat without proper pre-treatment, the chicken can end up pale, dry, or unevenly browned. The goal is balance—a controlled browning process that combines the Maillard reaction, caramelization, surface pH adjustment, and strategic smoking intervals to produce juicy, smoky, and perfectly browned chicken.

I started thinking about all the elements at play. Dextrose or sucrose? Which sugar is best for browning? How much bicarbonate should be used to enhance colour without ruining flavour? Could the natural lysine and arginine from chicken skin be harnessed to improve the reaction? More than that, I have recently been thinking a lot about these amino acids in the context of meat curing and here they show up again!

What would be the best sequence of drying, smoking, cooking, and roasting to lock in colour and texture without compromising taste?

What follows is the result of my musings—a scientific yet practical approach to achieving a beautifully browned, smoked-cooked chicken perfect for Lagos’ food scene.

1. How to Achieve a Nice Golden-Brown Color

Browning is a fundamental aspect of achieving an appealing roasted chicken, and it occurs through two major chemical processes:

1. The Maillard Reaction – This reaction between amino acids and reducing sugars generates complex flavours and a deep golden-brown colour.
2. Caramelization – The breakdown of sugars at high temperatures creates additional browning and sweetness.

The selection of ingredients and processing techniques can significantly enhance browning.

Using Dextrose Instead of Sucrose

Sucrose is not ideal for the Maillard reaction as it lacks a free aldehyde or ketone group needed for interaction with amino acids. Dextrose (D-glucose), a reducing sugar, undergoes the Maillard reaction at a lower temperature, facilitating better browning even at moderate cooking conditions.

• Benefit: Lower activation temperature for browning, making it more effective during moderate roasting and smoking steps.
• Application: A dextrose-based brine or glaze can be brushed onto the surface before roasting to enhance Maillard browning without requiring extreme heat.

Soy Isolate for Enhanced Browning

Soy protein isolate contributes free amino acids—particularly lysine and arginine, which are highly reactive in the Maillard reaction.

• Lysine-Arginine Synergy:
  • Lysine has a strong affinity for reducing sugars, accelerating the Maillard reaction.
  • Arginine, while less reactive, supports browning by modifying surface pH and contributing to protein cross-linking.

Suggested Ratio for Optimal Browning:

Cook pork, beef, or chicken skin in water, then strain and reserve the cooking liquid. For every 1 litre of cooking water, add 0.5–1g of arginine to balance the natural lysine extracted from the skin (which is approximately 10g per litre). This lower arginine-to-lysine ratio enhances Maillard browning while preventing off-flavors.

Bicarbonate for Accelerated Browning

Sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) enhances browning by increasing surface pH. This promotes the breakdown of proteins and facilitates faster Maillard reactions.

• Why Bicarbonate Alone Browns Chicken:
  • Increases alkalinity, making amino acids more reactive with reducing sugars.
  • Helps break down proteins, increasing available reactive groups.
  • Enhances gelatinization, which improves the adhesion of browning agents.

Application: A 1–2% bicarbonate solution lightly brushed onto the surface before roasting will intensify browning without leaving an aftertaste.

2. Suggested Brine and Coating for Optimal Browning

To fully utilize the chemical principles outlined above, the following brine and surface brushing solution is recommended:

Brine Composition (Injected or Soaked for 2–4 Hours at 4°C):

• Water (from cooked chicken skin): 90%
• Dextrose: 2.5%
• Salt: 1.5%
• Bicarbonate of soda: 0.5%
• Arginine: 0.3%
• Soy isolate: 2.2% (providing lysine and protein solubility for Maillard reaction)

Surface Brushing Solution (Applied Before Roasting):

• Water (from cooked chicken skin): 70%
• Dextrose: 5%
• Bicarbonate: 1%
• Soy isolate: 2%
• Arginine: 0.4%
• Salt: 0.6%

This mixture optimizes protein interaction with reducing sugars and increases the reaction rate, ensuring an even golden-brown crust.

3. Smoking/Grilling Program for Industrial Roasting of Chicken

To maximize browning, apply the following processing sequence:

1. Redening at 55°C for 10 minutes – Stabilizes surface proteins and sets the color foundation.
2. Drying at 65°C for 40 minutes – Reduces surface moisture, preventing steaming and enhancing smoke adherence.
3. Smoking at 65°C for 25 minutes – Allows smoke compounds to interact with surface proteins.
4. Drying at 65°C for 5 minutes – Removes residual moisture, further enhancing smoke adhesion.
5. Smoking at 65°C for 15 minutes – Deepens color through additional Maillard reaction activation.
6. Drying at 65°C for 5 minutes – Ensures a dry surface for further heat exposure.
7. Cooking at 75°C for 10 minutes – Bring the internal temperature to a safe level.
8. Roasting at 120°C for 20 minutes – The most critical browning stage, intensifying Maillard reaction.
9. Drying at 100°C for 5 minutes – Locks in the crust, stabilizing the surface structure.

Conclusion

Achieving optimal browning in industrial chicken roasting requires understanding the Maillard reaction, protein interactions, and surface pH modulation. Dextrose lowers the temperature needed for browning, while bicarbonate accelerates the Maillard reaction by altering pH. The lysine-arginine combination from soy isolate and chicken skin provides an effective pathway to deep, uniform browning. Finally, a strategic smoking, drying, and roasting sequence ensures a golden-brown surface while maintaining juiciness and flavour.

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References

1. Mottram, D. S. (1998). The Maillard reaction: Source of flavour in thermally processed foods. Journal of Food Chemistry, 62(4), 415-424.
2. Ledl, F., & Schleicher, E. (1990). New aspects of the Maillard reaction in foods and in the human body. Angewandte Chemie International Edition, 29(6), 565-594.
3. Whitfield, F. B. (1992). Volatiles from interactions of Maillard reaction and lipid oxidation products. Journal of the American Oil Chemists’ Society, 69(3), 303-310.
4. Shaw, B. G., & Harding, C. D. (1984). Effects of pH on the formation of Maillard reaction products in heated model systems containing lysine, arginine, and dextrose. Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, 32(2), 291-295.
5. Mastrocola, D., & Munari, M. (2000). The role of reducing sugars and pH in browning development during baking of biscuits. Journal of Food Science, 65(3), 465-470.