From Frankfurter to Burenwurst and Russian: A Comprehensive Culinary and Historical Study

16 Oct 2024
Eben van Tonder

See my work on the history of the Russian Sausage: Origins of the South African Sausage, Called a Russian.

Also: Ode to the Russian Sausage – a Technical Evaluation

A follow-up article with much greater detail on the implicit support shown to the Boer cause during the Anglo-Boer War: Austria’s Cultural and Public Support for the Boers During the Anglo-Boer War: A Nationalist Reflection

Table of Contents

Introduction

Vienna is a city deeply intertwined with sausage-making traditions, serving as the birthplace or home to several iconic sausages such as the Frankfurter, Vienna sausage, and Burenwurst. These sausages not only reflect different moments in culinary history but also carry political and cultural significance. This article delves into the intricate history, recipes, and influence of these sausages, linking them to both European and South African culinary traditions. I begin by showing how the more course Frankfurter was adapted into the Vienna sausage. Another progression took place in Vienna where the Krainer sausage was transformed into the Boer-sausages and, in South Africa, into what is referred to as a Russian sausage.

Vienna’s Contribution to Global Sausage Culture

Although the Frankfurter sausage originated in Frankfurt, Germany, it gained prominence in Vienna when Johann Georg Lahner introduced his version in 1805. Lahner was a butcher from Frankfurt. He called his sausages Frankfurters but what was the development exactly?

The original development of the Frankfurter sausage in Germany was that it was more finely ground. The Frankfurter Würstchen distinguished itself from other sausages of the time by using fine ground pork, creating a smooth and consistent texture. This fine emulsion of meat became a key feature of the sausage, setting it apart from coarser sausages like the Krainer or kielbasa, which used larger chunks of meat and fat.

The refinement of the grinding process and careful preparation, including mild seasoning and light smoking, became hallmarks of the Frankfurter. By the late 18th century, this style was well established in Frankfurt, making the Frankfurter Würstchen a precursor to other finely textured sausages like the Wiener Würstchen as the sausages pioneered by Johann Georg Lahner in Vienna.

He is often credited with introducing the Frankfurter sausage to Vienna in 1805. It is interesting that before Lahner’s arrival, there is no record of Frankfurter sausages being a part of Viennese cuisine. Lahner, who moved from Frankfurt to Vienna, brought his knowledge of sausage-making with him. He introduced a modified version of the traditional Frankfurter to suit Viennese tastes. His adaptation was in two areas. He blending pork and beef, created an even finer texture and encased the sausage in sheep intestines—resulted in a smoother and more refined product than the original German version.

In Frankfurt, Lahner had become acquainted with Frankfurt sausages made from more coarse pork during his apprenticeship. In the Main metropolis, the butchers’ guild strictly maintained the separation of beef and pork. However, in Vienna, no such distinction was enforced, and sausage products were typically finer due to more thorough grinding of the raw material. Lahner experimented with a blend of beef and pork, refining the mixture to achieve a much smoother texture. He then gently smoked the filled sausage casings. This difference in production methods between the original pork-based Frankfurt sausages and Vienna sausages persists to this day.

This new style Frankfurter became immensely popular at Vienna’s Würstelstände (sausage stands), where it was enjoyed by a broad cross-section of society, from the working class to Emperor Franz Joseph himself.

One fascinating aspect of the new Frankfurter’s popularity in Vienna is the role played by Emperor Franz Joseph of Austria. The emperor was known to enjoy Frankfurters as part of his daily breakfast at the Hofburg Palace. He reportedly consumed two Frankfurters each morning, helping to elevate the sausage’s status from a common street food to a delicacy appreciated even by royalty. This royal endorsement contributed significantly to the enduring appeal of the Frankfurter, ensuring its popularity among both the working class and the aristocracy.

The Sausage Man at Schottentor,’ Viennese Genre Song, 1956, Vienna Library in the City Hall

Emperor Franz Joseph’s preference, as noted earlier, was specifically for the new style of Frankfurter, the version introduced by Lahner.

Lahner’s new style of sausage became known as the Wiener Wurst or Vienna sausage. However, despite popularizing this style in Vienna, Lahner continued to refer to his creation as Frankfurters, as he had originally done in Frankfurt and he thus generally popularised the Frankfurter sausage.

Ancient Background of the Course Sausage

The ancient background of the caurse smoked and cooked sausages is rooted in the preservation of meat. The origins of coarse sausages like the Krainer from Slovenia which is important in the next sausage progression from Vienna, can be linked to the monastic traditions of meat preservation and preparation, particularly during the Middle Ages in Central Europe. Monasteries were centres of agricultural innovation and played a key role in the development of meat preservation techniques, such as curing, smoking, and cooking sausages. These techniques were crucial for food preservation, especially during fasting periods.

In Slovenia, specifically the Carniola region, monks preserved pork by curing and smoking it, creating sausages that could last throughout the winter months. This practice, passed down through generations, influenced the development of local sausages such as the Krainer. The Krainer’s coarse texture and simple seasoning (traditionally a mix of pork, garlic, and spices) are reflections of these early monastic methods, which emphasized sustainability and the use of available local ingredients.

Historical documents and culinary historians describe how Central European monastic traditions spread through regions like Slovenia and Austria due to the influence of the Habsburg Monarchy, allowing techniques for sausage making to be shared across borders. Slovenian sausage traditions, including the Krainer, were deeply influenced by Bavarian and Austrian monks, who preserved meats using methods that included both curing and smoking. The sausages produced by monks were often coarse and robust, aligning closely with the style of sausages like the Krainer, which remain coarsely chopped and filled with simple, hearty ingredients.

Culinary scholar Michael Krondl notes, “The monastic tradition of curing and smoking pork in Central Europe set the stage for many of the region’s later sausage styles. The Krainer is a direct descendant of this tradition, preserving the coarse, rustic qualities typical of monastic sausages.” The monks’ need to preserve food for long periods meant their methods focused on durability, flavor development through smoking, and an emphasis on pork, garlic, and fat for rich, sustaining products.

This monastic influence is not just conjecture but supported by historical records of monasteries in Bavaria, Austria, and Slovenia maintaining herds of pigs and preserving meats through highly developed methods. Over time, these techniques spread and evolved, and the Krainer sausage became a symbol of Slovenia’s culinary heritage, while also carrying the legacy of monastic food preservation across borders.

I refer you to work such as “The Monastic Culinary Traditions in Central Europe” or “The Role of Monasteries in Meat Preservation in the Habsburg Monarchy.” These works highlight the intricate connections between religious institutions and the culinary evolution of sausages like the Krainer. Also, see my further notes below at the end of this article.

The Burenwurst: A Symbol of Political Solidarity

Cover of the single ‘Burenwurst’, drawing: Manfred Deix, 1978 Collection Peter Payer.

The Frankfurter from Germany was more course than the progression in Vienna, but there is historical unanimity that not even the Ferman variety was as coarse as the Krainer sausage.

As we alluded to above, the Krainer sausage originates from the Carniola region (Krain in German, now part of Slovenia), giving it its name. It has a long tradition in Slovenian cuisine, dating back to the Middle Ages, and has become a part of Central European culinary culture, especially in Austria. The specific guidelines for making Krainer were established over time, and it eventually became a Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) product, meaning its production follows strict regional and quality standards.

Vienna remained central in sausage innovations, and it was here where the Krainer sausage progressed with the development of the Burenwurst.

Unlike the new Frankfurter or Vienna sausage, the Burenwurst was created as a direct response to a political event—the Second Anglo-Boer War (1899–1902). German nationalists, along with other Europeans, strongly supported the Boers in their struggle against British imperialism. The Burenwurst was named in honour of the Boers and became a symbol of this solidarity. Unlike the smooth Frankfurter, the Burenwurst remained a coarse sausage made from pork, beef, and often bacon, with paprika and garlic seasoning. It was again the inclusion of pork and beef, along with bacon and sometimes ham pieces, that distinguished it from the pure pork Frankfurter or the Vienna sausage. It was also distinct from the Krainer with an even courser grind and a more spicey taste.

Payer writes “The latter became extremely popular, quickly earning the nickname “Burenheidl” or simply “Haße” in Viennese dialect. In butcher’s language, it is technically a “Klobasse” (Slovak “Klobása” means “farmer,” just like “Bur”).”

The Burenwurst continues to be popular in Vienna today, often enjoyed boiled or grilled and served with mustard, bread, and horseradish at Würstelstände.

The Evolution of the Russian Sausage in South Africa

Vienna was not the only city where the original German Frankfurter and the Slovenian Krainer progressed. It was, in all likelihood, German immigrants to German West Africa (present-day Namibia) and South Africa who brought the original pork-only Frankfurter technology with them as well as the Krainer sausages.

The Russian sausage in South Africa has its origins in the culinary traditions brought by European immigrants, particularly Lithuanian Jews in Johannesburg during the early days of the Rand mines. I speculate that these immigrants adapted the Krainer sausage (or, at least, the Boer version of it) and rebranded it as the Russian sausage, potentially due to a derogatory association with “Red Russians” (a reference to the political climate of the time). The Russian sausage, known for its coarse texture and distinct red colour, became a staple food for both black migrant workers and Boer miners.

Recipes for Burenwurst, Frankfurter, and Vienna Sausage

-> Burenwurst Recipe

Ingredients:

500g Pork (shoulder or belly)

500g Beef (chuck or brisket)

200g Bacon or ham

20g Salt

5g Paprika

3g Black pepper

2g Garlic powder

1g Caraway seeds (optional)

Preparation:

1. Coarsely grind the pork, beef, and bacon.

2. Mix the ground meats with salt, paprika, black pepper, garlic powder, and caraway seeds (if using).

3. Stuff the mixture into natural casings and twist into links.

4. Parboil the sausages and then grill or smoke them before serving.

-> Traditional Frankfurter Recipe (Circa 19th Century)

Ingredients:

600g Pork (fat and lean mix)

400g Beef

15g Salt

2g White pepper

1g Nutmeg

Small amount of Garlic (optional)

Sheep casing (as needed)

Preparation:

1. Finely grind the pork and beef until smooth.

2. Mix the meat with salt, pepper, nutmeg, and garlic (if using).

3. Stuff the mixture into sheep casings, ensuring there are no air pockets.

4. Twist into links, parboil the sausages, and then fully boil them before serving.

-> Traditional Vienna Sausage Recipe

Ingredients:

800g Beef (very lean)

200g Pork (lean)

15g Salt

2g White pepper

1g Paprika

Sheep casing (as needed)

Preparation:

1. Finely grind the beef and pork until smooth.

2. Add the spices and mix thoroughly.

3. Stuff the mixture into sheep casings and twist into small links.

4. Boil or grill the sausages, or store in jars for preservation.

Conclusion: A Journey of Culinary Traditions

The Frankfurter, Vienna sausage, and Burenwurst all reflect different aspects of Viennese history and culture. The new style of Frankfurter, endorsed by Emperor Franz Joseph, bridged the gap between royalty and common folk. The Vienna sausage gained international fame as did the Frankfurter. Meanwhile, the Burenwurst carried political symbolism, born out of European solidarity with the Boer people.

The adaptability of these sausages across borders, including the evolution of the Russian sausage in South Africa, speaks to the enduring legacy of European sausage-making traditions and their capacity to reflect both cultural exchange and political movements.

Additional Notes on Krainer Sausages

The Krainer sausage (Kranjska klobasa) holds a rich history within the Carniola region, now part of modern-day Slovenia. Its origins date back to the traditions of meat preservation in Central Europe, where local farmers and monastic communities played a crucial role in developing techniques for curing, cooking, and smoking meats. According to Jože Ravnikar, “the Carniolan sausage was the pinnacle of rural Slovenian ingenuity, combining pork, garlic, and salt to create a robust and sustaining product” that became central to the local diet.

Ravnikar highlights that the Carniola region’s agricultural traditions were deeply influenced by the monastic presence in the Habsburg Empire. These religious communities, known for their knowledge of agriculture, introduced sophisticated methods of preserving meat. “Monasteries not only shaped religious life but also introduced culinary standards that would form the basis of regional specialities,” Ravnikar explains. The monks often smoked and cured pork, techniques that were widely adopted by the surrounding rural population, leading to the creation of sausages like the Krainer, which became synonymous with local Carniolan identity.

Karl Kaser extends this argument by explaining the broader cultural context within which the Krainer sausage emerged. In his study of Central European culinary exchanges, Kaser notes that “the Krainer reflects the hybridization of Slovenian and Germanic influences, as the region’s position within the Austro-Hungarian Empire allowed for a fusion of culinary techniques.” He goes on to argue that the Krainer sausage serves as a symbol of “culinary diplomacy,” where “monastic practices merged with peasant traditions,” leading to the creation of sausages that were both practical and flavorful, capable of lasting through long winters.

The Krainer’s coarsely chopped texture and simple, traditional seasonings (garlic, salt, pepper) reflect these old methods. While its ingredients are humble, its preparation—smoked and cooked—demonstrates a level of sophistication that was passed down from monastic food preservation techniques. Kaser emphasizes the importance of smoking as a method that was widely used by monks: “Smoking not only enhanced flavor but was a critical method of preservation, especially in Carniola where harsh winters demanded long-lasting, easily stored food.”

The Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) status awarded to Krainer sausages in 2015 reflects the importance of preserving these historical methods. The strict requirements for authentic production in Slovenia enforce traditional methods that date back centuries, ensuring the Krainer remains a symbol of Slovenian heritage. Ravnikar adds, “The recognition of the Krainer as a protected cultural and culinary artifact is a testament to the enduring influence of historical foodways, shaped by monastic and rural life alike.”

Together, Ravnikar and Kaser paint a detailed picture of the historical development of the Krainer sausage, tracing its roots through the influence of monastic traditions, local agricultural practices, and the cultural exchanges of Central Europe. The Krainer sausage remains a symbol of both Slovenian identity and the broader culinary heritage of the region.

Also see “Slovenian Culinary Traditions” by Jože Ravnikar and “Culinary Crossroads: The Austro-Slovenian Connection” by Karl Kaser.