13 November 2024 by Eben van Tonder

Abstract

This paper examines historical references to pork quality characteristics that resemble what is known today as Pale, Soft, Exudative (PSE) meat. While ancient and medieval societies lacked the biochemical understanding of PSE, observations from classical China, Rome, Greece, and medieval Europe describe “pale,” “soft,” or “weak” pork, characteristics often associated with poor diet, animal treatment, or handling practices. Additionally, early regulations and processing practices hint at a selective use of high-quality meat for valued products like hams, bacon, and sausages, likely excluding lower-quality pork. This paper consolidates these observations to suggest that early societies may have recognized and adapted their processing methods to address meat quality issues akin to PSE.

Introduction

Pale, Soft, Exudative (PSE) pork is characterized by a pale colour, soft texture, and exudative properties due to rapid postmortem pH decline caused by pre-slaughter stress. Although PSE’s biochemical causes were unknown until the 20th century, historical texts suggest that ancient societies encountered similar pork quality issues, which influenced how meat was classified, priced, and used in culinary and preservation practices. This paper explores references to undesirable pork qualities from a wide array of sources, examining how ancient perceptions of quality influenced meat preservation in products like hams, sausages, and bacon.

Methods

Primary sources from classical Chinese, Greco-Roman, and medieval European texts were examined. These sources include De Re Coquinaria by Apicius, Deipnosophistae by Athenaeus, On the Properties of Foodstuffs by Galen, the Compendium of Materia Medica by Li Shizhen, medieval German butchery guild records, Roman legal codes, and culinary instructions for preserved meat products. Each text was analyzed for references to pork qualities resembling PSE, as well as implications for use in specific meat products.

Results and Discussion

1. Chinese Materia Medica and Traditional Preservation Practices

In traditional Chinese medicinal and preservation contexts, high standards were held for meat quality. Li Shizhen’s Compendium of Materia Medica, compiled in 1578, categorizes pork quality, noting that “white and pale” pork was considered inferior, particularly for medicinal purposes. This text implies a preference for pork rich in “essence,” or vital qualities, often found in robust, high-quality meat.

Quote: “Pork that is white and pale may lack essence and is inferior for medicinal preparation.” (Compendium of Materia Medica, Li Shizhen, 1578).

Interpretation: While direct references to curing are limited, it’s implied that robust pork was preferred for preparations requiring quality and durability. Pale, soft pork was likely unsuitable for preserved dishes, such as fermented meats, where healthy, firm meat was essential. This emphasis on quality aligns with a longstanding cultural practice in China, where robust pork was chosen for medicinally valued stews and preserved dishes.

2. Medieval German Butchery Guild Standards for Cured Meats (ca. 1300-1500 A.D.)

Medieval German butchery guilds had strict standards for pork quality, especially for pork used in products like hams and sausages. Guild records categorize “white” or “weak” pork as lower quality, associating it with poor flavour and recommending it be sold at a reduced rate. This practice implies that only high-quality, firm pork was used for valuable preserved products, requiring structural integrity and robust flavour.

Translation from Guild Records: “Pork that is overly soft or pale is to be sold at a reduced rate, as it lacks the strong flavour expected of healthy stock.” (German Butchery Guild Records, ca. 1300-1500 A.D.)

Interpretation: Guild standards reflect a practical approach to meat grading that would have affected products like hams and sausages. Soft, pale pork, likely unfit for curing, would disrupt salt absorption and the preservation process. This preference for strong-flavoured, healthy stock ensures that only the highest-quality pork was chosen for durable and flavorful cured meats, avoiding the negative effects associated with PSE-like characteristics.

3. Roman Law on Meat Quality for Marketed Products (Lex Julia Municipalis), ca. 45 B.C.

The Roman Lex Julia Municipalis set clear guidelines on meat quality for products in the marketplace, with penalties for selling “pale, soft, or discoloured” meat as premium. Although not directly mentioning cured meats, the law reflects an early grading system where lower-quality pork was designated for lesser uses. In Roman cuisine, items like garum-based sauces and botulus sausages relied on high-quality meat, suggesting that pale, soft pork would have been restricted from such applications.

Reference: “Any meat appearing pale, soft, or discoloured shall be deemed of lower grade and subject to penalty if sold as first-rate.” (Lex Julia Municipalis, ca. 45 B.C.)

Interpretation: This legal grading suggests that pale, soft pork was seen as lower quality, unsuitable for premium-grade products. Roman cured products, like sausages, required high-quality pork for proper preservation, durability, and flavour development, indirectly implying that PSE-like meat would not meet such standards.

4. Traditional European Curing and Preservation Guidelines (Early Curing Practices)

Early European curing traditions, especially in German and French regions, emphasized the need for firm and flavorful meat in preserved products like hams and sausages. Culinary practices passed down through guilds and local traditions highlight the importance of selecting healthy pork. Soft or watery pork, lacking in firmness, was unsuitable for curing, where consistent texture and integrity were essential to the preservation process.

General Observations from Curing Practices: Historical European curing methods indicate that only firm, robust pork was ideal for long-term preservation. Pale, soft meat would fail in salt absorption and moisture retention, leading to faster spoilage or poor flavour. Cured meats like sausages and hams require structurally sound pork, reinforcing the necessity of high-quality meat for these applications.

Interpretation: Though written guidelines are limited, the longstanding practice of selecting quality pork for curing highlights a practical understanding of meat quality’s role in preserving flavour and durability. This preference aligns with traditional curing needs, where structurally sound pork helped ensure the longevity and flavour profile of preserved meats.

Conclusion

Ancient and medieval records from diverse cultural contexts reveal observations of pale, soft, or “weak” pork, characteristics now associated with PSE. Across various societies, high-quality pork was valued for preserved products like hams, sausages, and bacon, while lower-quality pork was either downgraded or avoided for these uses. This early recognition of quality characteristics reflects a longstanding awareness of how diet, animal handling, and meat structure influenced pork’s value and suitability for preservation.

References

Li Shizhen. Compendium of Materia Medica. 1578.

Apicius. De Re Coquinaria (On the Subject of Cooking). ca. 1st century A.D.

Athenaeus. Deipnosophistae (The Philosophers’ Banquet). ca. 200-250 A.D.

Galen. De Alimentorum Facultatibus (On the Properties of Foodstuffs). ca. 180-200 A.D.

German Butchery Guild Records. ca. 1300-1500 A.D.

Lex Julia Municipalis. ca. 45 B.C.

Observations from Early European Curing Practices (German and French Traditions).