By Eben van Tonder, 30 October 2024
Historical Background of Brawn
When my brother, Elmar, recently asked for a recipe for brawn, a dish beloved by our father, I delved deeply into both Austrian and German traditions to find the most authentic techniques and historical details. Brawn, known in German-speaking regions as Sülze or Presswurst, is a traditional meat product made from collagen-rich cuts, such as head and trotters, cooked to release gelatin and set in its own stock. Originally a preservation method for meat, it has evolved into a culinary art form with distinct variations and regional adaptations.
The Origins of Sülze in Medieval Europe
The origins of Sülze can be traced back to rural regions in medieval Europe, where it emerged as a method to prevent waste by using every part of the animal. The term “Sulza,” which derives from the medieval term for salted water, points to its origins in salt brining and gelatin extraction. In early monastic kitchens, records like The Forme of Cury (14th century) and other medieval cookbooks reference the use of boiling bones and collagen-rich parts for preservation, noting that the gelatin formed a solid layer that sealed the meat from air, slowing spoilage. The meat would be consumed after boiling, cooling, and jelling, creating a dish that was both practical and festive, especially during slaughter festivals.
Sülze vs. Presswurst: Defining the Differences
The distinction between Sülze and Presswurst lies in the specific preparation and ingredients.
- Sülze: Typically, Sülze is crafted from lean pork parts such as the head, shank, and sometimes trotters, which are boiled until tender. This mixture, combined with a gelatin-rich stock, is set in a mould to create a sliceable, firm product. Sülze is often seasoned with vinegar, onions, bay leaves, and mild herbs like parsley, and was historically served cold with rustic accompaniments like bread and mustard. Traditionally, Sülze was made using pork and veal trotters, which have a high natural collagen content, and no artificial gelatin was added. Today, artisanal recipes maintain this practice, reducing the stock to intensify the gelatin content.
- Presswurst: By contrast, Presswurst includes additional fattier cuts, such as pork belly or skin, which are packed into casings, pressed, and allowed to set. Originally, it was seasoned with more robust spices and packed in natural casings to create a denser, sausage-like texture. Pressing the mixture gives Presswurst a denser, more compact texture. Unlike Sülze, Presswurst is cooked in a casing, traditionally with spices like garlic, caraway, and occasionally a hint of marjoram. This technique, which remains popular in regions like Austria, was meant to keep the flavours concentrated and allow for a more intense taste experience.
Preservation Techniques: Gelatin vs. Fat-Based Preservation
Medieval records document both gelatin and fat preservation techniques. Gelatin preservation was valued for creating a solid, sliceable dish that could be stored in cool, dark cellars without spoiling. Collagen extracted from boiled bones acted as a natural barrier, limiting air exposure and slowing bacterial growth. Gelatin-based preservation, unlike fat-based confit methods, preserved meat by encapsulating it in a gel that minimized bacterial activity.
Fat Preservation (Confit): Fat preservation involves cooking meat slowly in its own fat, which then solidifies to seal the meat from air. Unlike gelatin-preserved Sülze, which was firm and sliceable, fat-preserved products were softer and spreadable, best suited for foods like pâtés and rillettes. Fat preservation offered a rich, dense texture, but it did not lend itself to the bright, acidic flavours typical in brawn, which relied on vinegar and herbs to create a distinct profile.
Gelatin’s Role in Shelf Life and Structure: Collagen does not spoil as readily as raw meat, so by encasing meats in gelatin, medieval cooks created a longer-lasting product. Gelatin, once set, reduces exposure to oxygen and bacteria, and this natural encapsulation allows the product to maintain moisture and texture. This dual function of gelatin made it a valuable preservation method that was both practical and suitable for fasting periods in monastic communities.
Recipe for Styrian Curry Brawn (2 kg Batch)
Note: Although curry is not traditional, it offers a modern variation while respecting the preservation methods.
| Ingredient | Percentage | Weight (g) |
|---|---|---|
| Pork Trotters & Head | 40% | 800 |
| Pork Shoulder | 30% | 600 |
| Water/Stock | 20% | 400 |
| Onion (finely chopped) | 2% | 40 |
| Garlic | 1% | 20 |
| Curry Powder | 1% | 20 |
| Vinegar | 1% | 20 |
| Salt | 1% | 20 |
| Black Pepper | 0.5% | 10 |
| Gelatin (optional) | 3% | 60 |
Method:
- Prepare Meat: Rinse pork trotters, head, and shoulder.
- Boil: Simmer cuts in water with salt for 2–3 hours or until tender.
- Strain & Reduce Stock: Strain stock to remove impurities and reduce by half for gelatin concentration.
- Chop Meat: Finely shred meat.
- Season: Sauté onion, garlic, curry powder, and vinegar, then combine with meat.
- Add Gelatin (optional): Dissolve additional gelatin in hot stock if needed for a firm set.
- Mould: Press into a mould, refrigerate until set.
Traditional German Brawn Recipe (2 kg Batch)
| Ingredient | Percentage | Weight (g) |
|---|---|---|
| Pork Trotters & Head | 50% | 1000 |
| Water/Stock | 30% | 600 |
| Onion | 5% | 100 |
| Vinegar | 2% | 40 |
| Salt | 1% | 20 |
| Black Pepper | 0.5% | 10 |
| Bay Leaf | 0.5% | 10 |
| Parsley | 1% | 20 |
| Gelatin (optional) | 5% | 100 |
- Boil: Simmer pork with seasonings until tender.
- Strain & Reduce Stock: Concentrate stock for natural gelatin.
- Combine: Mix shredded meat, parsley, onion, and vinegar.
- Set in Mould: Press mixture into mould and chill.
References
- Bynum, C. W. (1987). Holy Feast and Holy Fast. University of California Press.
- Henisch, B. A. (1976). Fast and Feast. Pennsylvania State University Press.
- Scully, T. (1995). The Art of Cookery in the Middle Ages. Boydell Press.
- Moser, M., & Siegmund, F. (2020). “Preservation Techniques in Monastic Europe.” European Archaeological Review, 10(2), pp. 121-127.
- Theuer, F. (1998). Medieval Austrian Cuisine and Monastic Traditions. University of Vienna Press.
Image from: https://wifisteiermark.com/2020/04/28/suelze-von-tradition-zur-moderne/