Crispy and Safe! Navigating Bacon Cooking Techniques for Health and Flavour

20 Feb 2024
Eben van Tonder

Table of Contents

Introduction

Despite the low risk in bacon from the standpoint of nitrosamine formation, a reader of Earthworm Express contacted me and asked for the safest way to prepare bacon. One can never consider these matters apart from the fact that food must taste good! Here I offer three alternatives.

-> Two-Step Frying Process

For those who are still concerned that there is a tiny risk for amines to form even at bacon frying temperatures, I offer the following to consider.

Nitrite Reduction: Starting with frying at about 100 degrees C before increasing to 180 degrees C helps in more effectively reducing nitrite content, allowing for either leaching out of nitrites or their conversion to nitric oxide (NO).
Minimized Nitrosamine Formation: Gradually increasing the temperature minimizes the potential for nitrosamine formation. This is due to the gradual breakdown of erythorbate and conversion of nitrites to NO before reaching higher temperatures, which are more conducive to nitrosamine formation.
Texture and Flavor Impact: This method influences texture and flavour differently than direct high-heat frying. Frying or simmering at 100 degrees C might not yield as crispy bacon but can result in a more tender product. The controlled temperature increase allows for moisture preservation, resulting in a nuanced flavour profile.

I found that this method if water boiling is used, also reduces salt levels significantly thereby addressing one of the actual valid health concerns related to bacon.

-> Direct Frying at 180°C

What about direct frying?

Efficiency and Crispness: This method is more straightforward, requiring less time and typically resulting in a crispier texture, often preferred for bacon.
Higher Risk of Nitrosamine Formation: Starting at high temperatures is of course a bit riskier for nitrosamine formation compared to the previous method if nitrites are not adequately reduced beforehand. While erythorbate (isomer of ascorbate which is more stable at high temperatures than ascorbate and usually used in bacon brines) helps inhibit nitrosamine formation, the rapid temperature rise allows less time for the conversion of nitrites to NO. It must be noted that despite being riskier compared with the two-step process, it is very safe.
Flavour Development: Frying at high temperatures promotes Maillard reactions, enriching the flavour profile. However, there’s an increased risk of developing undesirable compounds if the bacon is overcooked.

-> Steaming or Boiling Before Deep-Frying

I used an interesting alternative developed in 2022 by a Chef from Lebanon with whom I shared accommodation within Lagos which involves initially steaming or boiling the bacon, then coating it in flour and deep-frying.

Choosing a healthy cooking oil is critical. This method significantly reduces the risk of nitrosamine formation. Flour coating achieves crispiness without exposing the meat’s surface proteins to high temperatures, thereby eliminating the risk of amine formation. Extended water exposure during steaming or boiling effectively leaches out nitrites, leaving minimal NO2- to react, except for erythorbate, which favours nitric oxide (NO) formation, further reducing nitrosamine risks.

-> JP’s Method

JP Vorster offers the following method which yields the same results as what I described in the two-step process.

“Bacon into a cold pan on number 3 heat setting out of possible 6, takes about 15 minutes to render, filliping every so often, once it starts sounding like it wants to sizzle and it looks semi-firm ish they ready to come out, then heat down to number 2 for the next batch cos pan is warm already.

Then they all go in the preheated oven at 220C on the grill setting for 15 minutes, filliping twice (every 5 minutes). And boom, result.

PS zero added oil of any kind, that’s all bacon fat rendered out

Conclusion

Choosing the right bacon cooking method hinges on balancing health concerns with culinary outcomes. The two-step frying process stands out for those prioritizing nitrite reduction and minimizing nitrosamine risks, offering a safer option with the potential for unique textures and flavours, albeit possibly less crispy.

Direct frying at 180°C appeals to those valuing efficiency and traditional crispy bacon, accepting a marginally higher nitrosamine risk if compared with the two-step process but evaluated on its own, still perfectly safe with erythorbate’s protective role.

The best and safest option for those who still think, despite all the evidence, that there is a risk for nitrosamine formation and who insist on crispy bacon is also the steam-cooking-coating-in-flour-deep-frying method of Chef Bashir! However, deep frying may be more obviously undesirable. 🙂 Then again, the result is so delectably delicious, it may just be worth using the method, in moderation of course!

JP received the presentation prize, and his method is one I will be trying next! It’s simple and yields delicious bacon while it addresses all the issues we discussed in the two-step process. Thank you, JP for your wonderful contribution!