Austrian Blended Ham: Pressschinken & Schinkenwurst

29 October 2024, Eben van Tonder

Introduction

Pressschinken and Schinkenwurst, two iconic Austrian meats, have roots stretching back to medieval times. These products are not just staples of Austria’s charcuterie tradition; they reflect centuries of monastic craftsmanship perfected in regions like Styria, Carinthia, and Upper Austria. Even today, they play a significant cultural role, especially during Easter celebrations.

Pressschinken, translating to “pressed ham,” is traditionally made from a blend of whole-muscle pork and finely chopped meat. The mixture is pressed into moulds to achieve its characteristic compact texture. In earlier times, wooden moulds were used, providing consistent curing and moisture control, which were essential for long-term preservation.

Franz Theuer captures the importance of this practice:

“The use of wooden molds for shaping hams allowed for more consistent curing, ensuring proper preservation and flavor development. This was particularly prevalent in the monastic centers of Styria and Bavaria.” (Medieval Austrian Cuisine and Monastic Traditions, 1998).

Schinkenwurst, or “ham sausage,” is different in its preparation. It consists primarily of a fine pork emulsion, but also contains larger pieces of whole ham, known as showpieces. Instead of moulds, it is stuffed into large pork bungs or intestines, giving it a distinct form and texture.

Henri Pirenne emphasizes the role of monasteries in the evolution of these meats:

“Monasteries not only preserved religious traditions but were also centers of culinary innovation, including advanced techniques for curing meats and producing uniform hams.” (Economic and Social History of Medieval Europe, 1937).

Historical Context and Cultural Significance

Monastic Origins of Pressschinken and Schinkenwurst

The origins of Pressschinken and Schinkenwurst can be traced back to medieval Austrian monasteries, which were not just centers of worship but also hubs of agricultural and culinary innovation. Monastic communities relied heavily on preserved foods to ensure sustenance through long winters and during times of scarcity. They developed sophisticated methods for preserving meat, focusing on techniques that ensured food safety, longevity, and self-sufficiency—essential elements of monastic life. The development of both products reflects these needs, showing a careful blend of craftsmanship, necessity, and tradition.

Curing Techniques

Salt curing was the cornerstone of monastic meat preservation and was pivotal to creating both Pressschinken and Schinkenwurst. The monks utilized salt to draw moisture out of the meat, preventing bacterial growth and extending the shelf life of the product. Salt was sourced from nearby mines such as Hallstatt and Bad Reichenhall, making it readily available for preservation.

Franz Theuer describes the role of salt in this process:

“In the medieval monasteries of Styria and Bavaria, salt was regarded as the cornerstone of meat preservation. It was not just a seasoning but a necessity for prolonging the edibility of meats such as ham and sausage.” (Medieval Austrian Cuisine and Monastic Traditions, 1998).

By adapting curing methods to different types of meat, the monks were able to create a variety of products, each with unique flavors and textures that were adjusted to the season and available resources.

Pressing Methods for Pressschinken

Pressing techniques were integral to the production of Pressschinken, which is defined by its compact, marbled appearance. The monks developed methods to press cured meat into molds, using wooden molds to shape the hams and ensure even curing and moisture distribution. This pressing process not only helped maintain the product’s structure but also reduced air pockets, minimizing the risk of spoilage.

Karl Vocelka elaborates on this process:

“Wooden molds allowed the monks to shape hams uniformly, which not only improved preservation but also made these products easier to transport and trade. This pressing method became a hallmark of monastic ham production across Austria.” (Food and Drink in the Middle Ages, 2005).

The use of wooden molds, which later evolved into more durable metal molds, ensured that Pressschinken maintained its traditional marbled structure while retaining moisture—a hallmark of Austrian charcuterie.

Emulsification in Schinkenwurst

The production of Schinkenwurst required the development of emulsification techniques, which were key to creating a smooth, cohesive sausage. Monks achieved this by manually grinding the meat using mortars and pestles, mixing it with fat and seasonings until a consistent emulsion was formed. Unlike modern emulsification, which relies on mechanical bowl cutters, monastic emulsification was labor-intensive and depended on basic tools like stone mortars and iron kidney plates.

Henri Pirenne highlights the importance of this method:

“The emulsification of meats was not merely a culinary choice but a necessary innovation. By creating a uniform mixture, monks could ensure that the sausage was less prone to spoilage and had a consistent texture, which was vital for long-term storage.” (Economic and Social History of Medieval Europe, 1937).

This early approach to emulsification laid the groundwork for contemporary sausage-making techniques, demonstrating the monks’ ingenuity and adaptability in producing preserved meats that could be stored and transported over long distances.

Monastic Influence on Local Communities

The preserved meats produced in monasteries were not just for internal consumption; they became integral to local trade and community sustenance, especially during times of scarcity like Lent or when fresh meat was restricted. Monastic charcuterie set a standard for quality and consistency in meat preservation, influencing local food practices and creating a culinary legacy that extended beyond the monastery walls.

Barbara Santich reflects on the broader impact of monastic preservation:

“Monasteries served as key suppliers of preserved meats to the surrounding communities, effectively setting the standard for local charcuterie. Their methods, honed over centuries, influenced regional culinary traditions long after monastic dominance waned.” (The Original Mediterranean Cuisine, 1995).

Monasteries thus became not only spiritual centers but also economic and social hubs, fostering a culture of preservation that would shape Austrian charcuterie for centuries to come.

Integration with Celtic Traditions

While the monks’ techniques were deeply rooted in Christian rituals and dietary needs, they were also influenced by earlier Celtic preservation practices. The Celts were skilled at fermenting, smoking, and drying meats, and their methods likely informed monastic approaches to curing.

Peter Berresford Ellis notes:

“The preservation techniques employed by Austrian monks were not developed in isolation. They were likely influenced by Celtic methods, which had been practiced in the region for centuries, particularly in relation to curing and smoking meats.” (The Celtic Empire, 1990).

Historian F. J. Byrne adds further context:

“The preservation techniques used by monastic communities often mirrored the practices of earlier societies, suggesting a continuity of tradition, albeit adapted for Christian monastic life.” (Irish Kings and High Kings, 1973).

This integration of Celtic traditions with monastic methods resulted in a unique blend of preservation techniques, shaping Austrian charcuterie into what it is today.

Role in Religious Rituals and Festivals

The role of Pressschinken and Schinkenwurst in Austrian religious rituals, especially during Easter, underscores their cultural and symbolic significance. Both meats are commonly part of the Osterkorbsegnung (Easter Basket Blessing), a ritual where foods are blessed in church on Holy Saturday. This blessing symbolizes the end of Lent and the joy of the Resurrection, making these meats essential components of the Easter Sunday feast.

Christian Scully describes the ritualistic significance:

“The blessing of Easter foods, particularly hams and sausages, represented not just the end of Lent but also a symbol of resurrection and renewal, a central theme in monastic spirituality.” (The Art of Cookery in the Middle Ages, 1995).

While Pressschinken is typically enjoyed cold during Easter breakfast or brunch, Schinkenwurst is often reserved for the main meal, served alongside traditional accompaniments like horseradish or added to soups. In some regions, Pressschinken is also associated with other festive occasions, such as Christmas or weddings, where it features prominently in cold platters.

Grinding and Emulsification Techniques: Historical Context

It may seem surprising that emulsified meat was part of ancient culinary practices. However, historical sources confirm that methods to create different textures existed in monastic kitchens. These early techniques laid the groundwork for achieving fine emulsions and coarse grinds—similar to results obtained with modern bowl cutters, mincers, and tumblers.

In monastic kitchens, meat processing was manual and labour-intensive:

-> Monks minced meat using knives on wooden blocks to achieve consistent, coarser cuts suitable for Pressschinken and other whole-meat products.

“The monks would manually mince the meat on robust wooden blocks using sharp knives, a laborious process that demanded considerable time and effort.” (Knightstemplar.co, n.d.)

-> Mortar and pestle were used to emulsify meat, particularly for Schinkenwurst. This early emulsification created a smooth texture, enabling fat and lean meat to bind together.

“In monastic kitchens, it was customary to employ a large mortar and pestle to grind the meat, ensuring a smooth and uniform texture.” (Knightstemplar.co, n.d.)

-> Iron kidney plates were used to achieve a more consistent grind, similar to modern mincers, enhancing efficiency in processing larger quantities of meat.

“Monks utilized iron kidney plates with multiple perforations to grind meat, an innovation that enhanced efficiency and ensured a consistent grind size.” (Knightstemplar.co, n.d.)

Ancient Pressschinken and Schinkenwurst Recipes

Ancient Pressschinken Recipe

Ingredients:

Ingredient% of Total Meat WeightNotes
Pork Meat (coarse)90%1-2 cm chunks, manually chopped
Pork Meat (fine)7.5%Finely chopped using knives
Water2%For brine
Curing Salt2.5%For curing
Black Pepper0.2%Traditional seasoning
Nutmeg0.1%Adds mild flavor
Mustard Seeds0.1%Flavor enhancement
Bay Leaves0.1%Crushed, added to brine
Juniper Berries0.1%Crushed, added to brine
Total100%

Method:

-> Coarse pork is chopped into 1-2 cm pieces; finer meat is manually chopped to a finer texture.

-> Mix curing salt and spices with water to create a brine; cure for 24-48 hours.

-> Mix gently in a wooden bowl to distribute ingredients evenly.

-> Pack into wooden ham moulds, pressing firmly.

-> Boil until internal temperature reaches 70-72°C.

-> Cool rapidly in cold water, then set for 12-24 hours.

Ancient Schinkenwurst Recipe

Ingredients:

Ingredient% of Total Meat WeightNotes
Pork Meat (fine emulsion)87%Emulsified using mortar and pestle
Pork Meat (showpieces)10%2-3 cm chunks
Water1%For brine
Curing Salt2%For curing
Black Pepper0.2%Traditional seasoning
Nutmeg0.1%Adds mild flavor
Mustard Seeds0.1%Adds mild tang
Total100%

Method:

-> Emulsify 87% of pork using mortar and pestle until smooth.

-> Mix fine emulsion with 2-3 cm showpieces.

-> Stuff into large pork bungs or intestines (90-120 mm).

-> Cook until internal temperature reaches 70-72°C.

-> Cool rapidly in cold water, then set for 12-24 hours.

Modern Profit-Driven Recipes

Modern Pressschinken Recipe

Ingredients:

Ingredient% of Total Meat WeightNotes
Pork Trimmings70%Lower-cost cuts for profit
Water20%Enhances yield
Curing Salt2.5%For curing
Tapioca Starch3%Enhances binding
Soy Protein Isolate1%Improves water retention
Seasonings (mixed)2.5%Flavor blend
Total100%

Method:

-> Use lower-cost pork trimmings.

-> Blend in a paddle mixer with tapioca starch, soy protein isolate, curing salt, and seasonings.

-> Pack into modern metal ham moulds, compressing firmly.

-> Cook until internal temperature reaches 70-72°C.

-> Cool rapidly in ice water, then set for 12-24 hours.

Additional Notes – Pressschinken

For modern Pressschinken, a kidney plate would be the preferred choice. This plate allows for cutting the meat into uniform chunks of approximately 1.5–2 cm, which is ideal for creating the characteristic texture of Pressschinken. The large holes in the kidney plate ensure that the meat maintains its structure, which is essential for the proper binding and visual appeal of the product.

If you’re aiming for a finer texture or a smoother bite (e.g., more like Schinkenwurst), you could first pass part of the meat through the 9 mm plate and incorporate it into the mix with the kidney plate cuts for better consistency.

For a purely traditional Pressschinken, stick with the kidney plate for the best results.

Modern Schinkenwurst Recipe

Ingredients:

Ingredient% of Total Meat WeightNotes
Pork Meat (fine)60%Finely ground
Pork Fat10%Adds richness
Water20%Enhances yield
Starch4%Improves binding
Soy Protein Isolate3%Improves water retention
Seasonings (mixed)3%For flavor
Total100%

Method:

-> Fine-grind pork with pork fat, water, starch, soy isolate, and seasonings.

-> Stuff into large casings and cook to 70-72°C.

-> Cool rapidly in ice water, then set for 12-24 hours.

Additional Notes: Shinkenwurst

For Schinkenwurst, achieving a balance between the smooth, cohesive texture and the visible ham chunks requires careful preparation of the meat. Here is the updated and clarified process:

-> Grinding Ratios for Schinkenwurst

  1. Kidney Plate (1.5–2 cm cuts):
    • Use 30–40% of the meat (preferably whole muscle cuts like topside or silverside) and pass it through the kidney plate. This creates large, uniform chunks of meat that are essential for the visual and textural appeal of Schinkenwurst.
  2. 4.5 mm Plate:
    • Pass 50–60% of the meat through the 4.5 mm plate. This finer grind provides the cohesive base matrix of the sausage, ensuring smoothness and proper binding.
  3. Optional 9 mm Plate:
    • If a slightly coarser texture is preferred, substitute half of the 4.5 mm ground portion with a 9 mm plate grind. This creates a subtle textural variation without compromising smoothness.

-> Step-by-Step Mixing Process

Initial Mixing with the Finer Grind:

  • Start by placing the 4.5 mm ground meat (or a combination of 4.5 mm and 9 mm) in the mixer.
  • Add curing salt, ice water, and any seasonings to this portion.
  • Mix thoroughly to extract proteins, which ensures good binding and a firm texture after cooking. This step also incorporates air and evenly distributes the curing agents.
  1. Incorporating the Kidney Plate Chunks:
    • Once the finer grind is fully mixed and sticky (indicating proper protein extraction), gently fold in the kidney plate chunks. This means adding the larger meat pieces (cut with the kidney plate) to the already-mixed finer grind and using a slow mixing speed or a manual folding motion.
    • The goal is to integrate the chunks evenly into the mix without breaking them down or over-mixing. Over-mixing could damage the structure of the chunks and make them less distinct in the final product.

-> Why Folding Matters

  • Maintaining Chunk Integrity: The kidney plate chunks are larger and more delicate than the finer grind. Folding them in gently ensures they retain their shape and texture in the finished sausage.
  • Appearance and Texture: Proper folding creates the characteristic look of Schinkenwurst, with visible chunks of ham embedded in the smooth base.

-> Stuffing and Further Notes

Once mixed, the sausage mixture should be stuffed into casings immediately to prevent drying out and ensure proper binding.

  • Pay attention to mixing times to avoid overworking the meat, which could lead to a tougher texture in the final product.

By following this method, you’ll achieve the perfect balance of smoothness and chunkiness that defines Schinkenwurst.

Adjusted Recipes for PSE Meat

Adjusted Pressschinken for PSE Meat

Ingredient% of Total Meat WeightNotes
Pork Trimmings65%Use cuts less prone to PSE (e.g., shoulder)
Water10%Reduced to prevent excess moisture loss
Curing Salt2.5%For curing
Tapioca Starch5%Enhances binding
Soy Protein Isolate5%Improves water retention
Alginate2%Improves cohesion
Seasonings (mixed)2.5%Flavor blend
Total100%

Method Adjustments:

-> Use pork cuts like shoulder or butt, which are less prone to PSE.

-> Reduce blending time to 2-3 minutes in the paddle mixer.

-> Pack into molds and cook to 70-72°C.

-> Cool rapidly, then set for 12-24 hours.

Adjusted Schinkenwurst for PSE Meat

Ingredient% of Total Meat WeightNotes
Pork Meat (fine)55%Use cuts less prone to PSE
Pork Fat10%Adds richness and helps with binding
Water10%Reduced to enhance firmness
Soy Protein Isolate5%Improves water retention
TVP5%Adds structure
Alginate2%Improves binding
Seasonings (mixed)3%For flavor
Total100%For flavour

Method Adjustments:

-> Use shoulder or butt, less affected by PSE.

-> Reduce blending time to 2-3 minutes.

-> Stuff into large casings, cook to 70-72°C, then cool rapidly.

-> Set in the refrigerator for 12-24 hours.

Final Note on PSE Adaptations

The key to successfully adapting recipes for PSE meat is reducing the water content and increasing the use of binders to maintain the product’s structure and water-holding capacity. This approach prevents excessive moisture loss, leading to a firmer and more cohesive product.

  1. Reduced Water-Holding Capacity:
    • PSE meat loses its ability to bind and retain water due to rapid pH drop post-mortem, causing protein denaturation.
    • Adding the same amount of water as in regular recipes would lead to excess moisture loss during processing, making the final product softer, less cohesive, and more prone to exudation (dripping).
  2. Product Consistency:
    • Keeping the water content lower helps maintain firmness and cohesion, crucial in maintaining an acceptable texture in finished products like Pressschinken and Schinkenwurst.
  3. Effectiveness of Binders:
    • Even with increased use of binders like starch, soy isolate, and alginate, the water content still needs to be reduced to allow these binders to do their job effectively, which is to retain moisture and bind proteins.

Optimal Water Reduction for PSE Recipes

The water content should be reduced to about 10-12% of the total meat weight for PSE-adjusted recipes, compared to the higher levels in regular or profit-driven recipes.

Corrected Water Levels in Adjusted Recipes for PSE Meat

  1. Adjusted Pressschinken for PSE Meat:
    • Water: 10% (compared to 20% in modern profit-driven recipes)
  2. Adjusted Schinkenwurst for PSE Meat:
    • Water: 10% (compared to 20% in regular recipes)

The Role of TVP and Starch in Pressschinken and Schinkenwurst

In Austrian meat processing, the choice between Textured Vegetable Protein (TVP) and starch depends heavily on the type of product being made—whether it’s the emulsified Schinkenwurst or the non-emulsified Pressschinken. Each ingredient plays a distinct role in achieving the desired texture, moisture retention, and structure, especially when working with PSE meat.

In Schinkenwurst, which is characterized by a fine emulsion of pork, TVP serves as an ideal addition. As a plant-based protein, TVP not only mimics the meat-like structure but also adds bulk to the sausage, maintaining a dense, cohesive, and firm texture. This bulkiness is critical for emulsified products, where the primary goal is to create a smooth and uniform consistency. Moreover, TVP has a strong ability to absorb and retain moisture, making it particularly beneficial for PSE-affected meats, which have a reduced water-holding capacity. By retaining moisture, TVP helps to prevent the sausage from drying out during cooking and maintains a juicy, tender bite.

On the other hand, Pressschinken is a non-emulsified pressed ham that relies on the coarse chunks of pork held together in a compact, marbled structure. Here, tapioca starch becomes the preferred binder, primarily due to its gel-forming properties. During cooking, starch creates a gel-like matrix that binds the coarser meat pieces together, ensuring that the product retains its characteristic marbled texture without becoming overly dense. This gel formation is crucial for achieving the typical tender and cohesive finish expected in Pressschinken. Additionally, starch supports moderate moisture retention, keeping the product juicy while maintaining the desired compactness of the ham. Unlike TVP, which adds a firmer, meatier texture, starch delivers a smoother, more delicate binding, which aligns better with the traditional texture of pressed hams.

When adjusting these products for PSE meat, the choice of TVP or starch becomes even more significant. TVP is used in Schinkenwurst to counter the softer texture of PSE meat, as its bulk and water retention capabilities improve both the structure and juiciness of the sausage. In contrast, tapioca starch in Pressschinken not only helps the meat pieces stick together but also enhances tenderness, allowing the ham to maintain a consistent shape and quality.

So, TVP is best suited for emulsified products like Schinkenwurst, where a dense, cohesive, and moisture-retaining texture is needed. Meanwhile, tapioca starch is ideal for non-emulsified products like Pressschinken, where the focus is on achieving a gel-like binding for coarser meat pieces, resulting in a marbled and tender ham. The choice between these ingredients reflects both the traditional characteristics of each product and the need to adapt to the challenges posed by PSE meat, ensuring quality and consistency in the final product.

Analysis of Muscle Use in PSE Adjustments

The presence of PSE (Pale, Soft, Exudative) meat affects water-holding capacity, binding, and texture, necessitating specific adjustments in recipe formulations:

  1. PSE-Prone Muscles:
    • Loin (Longissimus dorsi) and ham muscles (e.g., Semimembranosus, Biceps femoris) are particularly prone to PSE due to their higher proportion of fast-twitch muscle fibres, which accelerate pH decline post-mortem, leading to the PSE condition.
    • These muscles often exhibit reduced binding capacity and water retention, making them challenging to use without proper formulation adjustments.
  2. Less PSE-Prone Muscles:
    • Muscles such as the shoulder (Triceps brachii, Supraspinatus) and butt (Gluteus medius) contain more slow-twitch fibres, which generally maintain better pH stability, reducing the likelihood of PSE characteristics.
    • These cuts retain water more effectively, offer better binding properties, and are more suited for making emulsified products like Schinkenwurst and pressed hams like Pressschinken.
  3. PSE Adjustments:
    • The use of binders (e.g., starch, soy protein isolate, alginate) compensates for the lower water-holding capacity of PSE meat, improving cohesion and gel strength.
    • Reduced water content and shorter blending times help maintain product firmness and prevent over-processing, which could worsen the texture of PSE-affected meat.

Final Remarks on the Evolution of Pressschinken and Schinkenwurst

Ancient Craft Meets Modern Adaptations

The recipes and techniques for Pressschinken and Schinkenwurst are testimonies to Austria’s rich meat-curing tradition, deeply rooted in monastic culinary heritage. Over time, these traditional methods have been refined for efficiency and profit, adapting to modern processing needs while maintaining the core characteristics of these products.

  • Ancient Recipes:
    • Pressschinken was created with a blend of whole-muscle pork and finely chopped meat, cured and pressed in wooden moulds.
    • Schinkenwurst combined fine emulsions with larger ham pieces, creating a balanced texture that’s both smooth and hearty.
  • Modern Profit-Driven Recipes:
    • The shift toward lower-cost trimmings, increased use of water for yield enhancement, and added binders (e.g., tapioca starch, soy isolate) reflect a focus on improving profitability while preserving acceptable quality.
    • The shift from wooden moulds to metal moulds and casings improves consistency and hygiene, aligning with modern production standards.
  • Adjustments for PSE Meat:
    • PSE adaptations highlight the importance of ingredient optimization and processing adjustments to maintain product quality. Increased use of alginate, soy isolate, and starch addresses the challenges of binding and moisture retention, making it possible to produce acceptable versions of these products even when using PSE meat.

Historical and Cultural Legacy

The role of Pressschinken and Schinkenwurst in Austrian culinary culture extends beyond just nutrition; they represent a culinary heritage tied to monastic traditions, Celtic influences, and Easter celebrations. These products are integral to Austrian identity and the historical craft of meat preservation.

The Connection with Monastic Food Culture

Monastic records from medieval Austria detail the rigorous processes involved in meat preservation, emphasizing the importance of uniform curing, precise blending, and consistent pressing. These practices not only met the dietary needs of monastic communities but also served as key economic activities, providing preserved meats to the surrounding populations.

“Monasteries served as hubs of both spiritual and culinary innovation, preserving the techniques of meat curing that remain central to Austrian gastronomy today.” (Theuer, 1998)

The Enduring Appeal of Easter Traditions

The symbolic presence of Pressschinken and Schinkenwurst in the Osterkorbsegnung is a testament to the enduring significance of these products in Austrian culture. The act of blessing food before consumption embodies the blend of spirituality, tradition, and community celebration that defines Austrian Easter customs.

Concluding Thoughts

Pressschinken and Schinkenwurst exemplify the enduring legacy of Austria’s charcuterie tradition. From the detailed craftsmanship of monastic kitchens to modern adaptations in large-scale production, these products have evolved yet remain true to their historical roots. Whether served during Easter feasts or as everyday delicacies, they continue to represent both Austria’s culinary ingenuity and the ability to adapt to changing times.

As Austrian meat products continue to evolve, the balance between traditional craftsmanship and modern innovation will remain essential. This historical exploration, combined with modern recipe adaptations, offers a complete perspective on how to maintain authenticity while meeting contemporary demands for quality and profitability.


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The Historical Origins, Symbolism, and Easter Traditions of Cured Meats: The Ritual of Meat Blessing in Christian Europe


References

  1. Theuer, Franz. Medieval Austrian Cuisine and Monastic Traditions. Verlag Dr. Franz, 1998.
  2. Pirenne, Henri. Economic and Social History of Medieval Europe. Harper & Row, 1937.
  3. Knightstemplar.co. “The Medieval Butcher: Meats, Markets, and Methods.” (n.d.)
  4. Van Tonder, Eben. Austrian Blended Ham: Pressschinken & Schinkenwurst. EarthwormExpress.
  5. Rolek, Barbara. “Blessing of the Easter Baskets on Holy Saturday.” The Spruce Eats.